Ready to scrap it
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New User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 2
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Ready to scrap it
I have a 1986 F250 with a 302 that has my mechanic baffeled. The problem is it runs for months and will out of the blue start to lose power and cough and sputter like it is starving for fuel and then die. Leave it sit for a cpoiuple of hours and off we go. Sometimes it sits over night but usually an hour or two will do it.
What has been done to date.
New Fuel pump in tank
fuel pump on frame taken apart and the filter inside replaced pumps good
new computer
new pick up coil
new distributer
new plugs and wires
new Gas cap
Mabey it bneeds a new owner? Any assistance would help
What has been done to date.
New Fuel pump in tank
fuel pump on frame taken apart and the filter inside replaced pumps good
new computer
new pick up coil
new distributer
new plugs and wires
new Gas cap
Mabey it bneeds a new owner? Any assistance would help
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,033
Likes: 11
From: Wausau, WI
^That's what I was going to say. I had an old Mustang and was having the same problems. Turns out the sock was plugging up blocking the fuel. Let it sit for a little and all was good for a while. Changed the tank and never had a problem again.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,477
Likes: 19
From: Sheffield, AL
Regarding the fuel tank sock possibly being stopped up... a Ford mechanic [friend of mine] once told me that when someone came to them with this problem, they would blow compressed air through the fuel line and literally blow the sock off the end. It would rest at the bottom of the tank. One would really have to depend on the fuel filter after this.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,362
Likes: 22
From: Florence, SC
Like ctubutis said, I would check the ignition module. It is located on the side of your distributor. When these start to go bad, they will often cut out when the engine is hot and start back up normally after they have cooled down.
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Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
From one of NumberDummy's posts:
The three step scenario of a failing ignition module:
1) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts almost at once.
2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts in an hour or so.
3) Sooner or later, usually sooner...module overheats...BURNS OUT. Now the engine will not re-start.
1) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts almost at once.
2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts in an hour or so.
3) Sooner or later, usually sooner...module overheats...BURNS OUT. Now the engine will not re-start.
As was suggested above, we don't know if the OP has checked for the presence of fuel & spark when this situation occurs, or pulled codes, so all we can do is shoot in the dark.
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FTE Legend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 56,542
Likes: 0
From: In my own world
In my 80 mustang, it was the needle and seat. Somehow it would get cocked sidways, and not let fuel through. If you would let it sit over night, it would fire right up, and run for a while. I spent lots of money on it and out of frustration, sold the car. The new owner found the problem, and fixed it
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,980
Likes: 2,735
From: Virginia
Why are people so afraid to check the codes? If I was the Ford engineer who spent all the time and effort creating a computer and it's program with all that self-diagnostics, and then find out nobody uses the self-diagnostic feature, I would be mad as a hornet.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 134
Likes: 6
From: Ash Flat
i bought an 86 half ton 302 new, drove it for 14 years, you can take the tip of a pocket knife or a pick and pop the cover off the ignition module, then you can see the circuit inside covered in clear gel, if there is a bubble in the gel replace it,, from an old mechanic (not me) even if it's a new one
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