So I should get that kit?

 

IMO I would not put a solid lifter performance cam in an otherwise stock or near stock (low compression, sunken piston) 351m.

If you must, a hydraulic "RV" type cam with "straight up" cam timing, a small 4bbl and headers would be about it. You will also need springs with that cam, or any cam/carb etc that is going to let the engine run up over 4000 rpm.

 

Just a term clarification?

I thought manual transmissions used flywheels, for the clutch, thick steel, different weights available depending on application, can resurface the area the clutch contacts, but also with teeth for the starter. You would use a heavier flywheel to maintain cruising speeds or use a lighter flywheel to rev faster for better acceleration.

I thought auto transmissions used flexplates, which are just there to bolt the torque converter to the engine, are thin steel, don't have different weights available, and have teeth for the starter. The torque converter in an auto trans can be bought with different stall speeds depending on application for cruising or acceleration.

Also going from auto to manual, isn't there a bearing that needs to be installed in the end of the crankshaft? I had the reverse experience: I was installing an engine that had a manual trans behind it into my car that was an auto trans and the engine still had the bearing in the end of the crankshaft that was interfering with the snout of the torque converter, the converter wanted to line up into the indentation on the end of the crank. I had to pull the engine up out of the engine bay to remove the bearing before things would sit right and line up.

 

I didn't regear is never see's pavement anyway.....and does fine for what I do with it. Got a different rearend with a Detroit locker goin under in the spring, if all goes as planned.

I'll regear to match and throw in a trac loc or ??? in the D60 I have for the front.

But we all know how that goes.......

And yes I meant to say change from a flexplate to a flywheel oops. Heavy versus light is a racing thing like the different stall converter for racing too. And no idea about the bearing...

 

can anyone recommend what cam kit should look into there are so many and im gettin flustered lol

 

Call around the local eng shops and get there oponion, then call the auto parts stores and get the low dowm on the machine shops that are ok and the ones to stay away.

351 have a bad rap......believe what you want. You have most of the making of a 400
(the block) so now just need the 400 internals.

Ck out the 355/385 series eng forums.

 

ok thanks, its just i dont have a whole lot of $ so i wanna do it right but i wanna save some $ as well

 

Thats why you ask around about the machine shop that is good and the one to avoid. Show some interest in building your own and maybe get some hands on time?

Ya never know till you ask.

 

Sounds good man ill call around tomorrow and let u know what I find out, thanks for the input and time man

 

How can I pull that off

 

possibly your best source for questions is here.

TMeyer, Inc. Precision Automotive Machining

i think he knows a lot about 351 engine and sells
everything you would need for your specific application.

 

Another member posted this in another thread. I'm not sure of the date of this, but it's a low-buck 380 horse 400. Note the cam, a hydraulic job... Don't WASTE money trying to polish the 351m. Leave it stock if you can't afford to go 400.

Ford 406 Engine Build - Hot Rod Magazine

 

WoW thats a great read you posted there.