Motorcraft carb issue
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Senior User
Joined: May 2011
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From: Eagle Point, Oregon
Motorcraft carb issue
So I just got my truck all back together, after a week of seating valves, and new gaskets... Now I am getting an air leak, it is coming out of the throttle rod that connects the butterfly venturies, I have heard from a couple of people this is common for the Motorcraft 2100's, because they don't have bushings like others do. I can't afford a new carb or anything like that. Is there a way to fix this? It is newly rebuilt and because of my massive missing problems, I couldn't catch on to it before.
1 other thing. I noticed when starting my truck, when turning it over- you can turn it nonstop and nothing will happen, the truck WILL NOT fire until you stop turning it over, this is a bit weird to me, anyone know why this happens?
P.S. I moved this thread here in hope of finding an answer (BII thread doesn't get answers often enough)
1 other thing. I noticed when starting my truck, when turning it over- you can turn it nonstop and nothing will happen, the truck WILL NOT fire until you stop turning it over, this is a bit weird to me, anyone know why this happens?
P.S. I moved this thread here in hope of finding an answer (BII thread doesn't get answers often enough)
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
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From: La La Land
That start only after release of key from "START" position problem is usually because you haven't bypassed your ballast resistor with a wire from the starter solemoid directly to the coil.
What year, and what kind of ignition system did you say you have? (You didn't.) Is it the '84 B-Twice?
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What year, and what kind of ignition system did you say you have? (You didn't.) Is it the '84 B-Twice?
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
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From: La La Land
No, not because of the resistor. The resistor is supposed to be there.
Take a look at this:
DuraSpark Wiring Schematic
Notice the little "S" and "R" next to the ballast resistor? That's the "START" and "RUN" outputs from the ignition switch.
The "R" goes through the resistor. The resistor is there to reduce the average voltage output to the spark plugs. The spark doesn't have to be as "hot" while running, and it keeps the entire DuraSpark unit from running hot.
The "S" supplies a full +12 volts to create a hotter spark during the time the starter motor is lugging down the battery voltage. It helps to have a little hotter spark while starting.
My guess is that you don't have the wire from the "S" to the coil, the one that effectively "bypasses" the resistor. Make sense to you?
That "S" source can come from one of the small terminals on some Ford-type starter solenoids, from the ignition switch directly, or even from the starter motor.
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Take a look at this:
DuraSpark Wiring Schematic
Notice the little "S" and "R" next to the ballast resistor? That's the "START" and "RUN" outputs from the ignition switch.
The "R" goes through the resistor. The resistor is there to reduce the average voltage output to the spark plugs. The spark doesn't have to be as "hot" while running, and it keeps the entire DuraSpark unit from running hot.
The "S" supplies a full +12 volts to create a hotter spark during the time the starter motor is lugging down the battery voltage. It helps to have a little hotter spark while starting.
My guess is that you don't have the wire from the "S" to the coil, the one that effectively "bypasses" the resistor. Make sense to you?
That "S" source can come from one of the small terminals on some Ford-type starter solenoids, from the ignition switch directly, or even from the starter motor.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: La La Land
If the DuraSpark came from the factory, it would be there.
However, since you modded the B-Twice to add DuraSpark, it's possible that you may have missed adding that wire.
If you were to put a multi-meter (reading voltage) on the "BAT" side of the coil (other wire of the voltmeter to ground) what would the voltage be during "CRANK"? If it's next-to-nothing, there's your problem. If it's close to battery voltage, that's not your problem.
The engine WILL run normally, once started, right?
Some testing is in order for you......
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However, since you modded the B-Twice to add DuraSpark, it's possible that you may have missed adding that wire.
If you were to put a multi-meter (reading voltage) on the "BAT" side of the coil (other wire of the voltmeter to ground) what would the voltage be during "CRANK"? If it's next-to-nothing, there's your problem. If it's close to battery voltage, that's not your problem.
The engine WILL run normally, once started, right?
Some testing is in order for you......
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: McKenzie River
The 83-84 duraspark swap is plug and play, the 85 is more problematic and requires a ballast resistor to be added............Sure your B2 is not a 85?
As Marv says..............Start testing.
As Marv says..............Start testing.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2011
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From: Eagle Point, Oregon
It is an 84.... I put a resistor on my coil, it is white.... Could this be my problem?
I don't have a volt meter, though.
My resistor is connected to positive of coil with positive batt connected to the bottom of the resistor.
I don't have a volt meter, though.
My resistor is connected to positive of coil with positive batt connected to the bottom of the resistor.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: La La Land
There's still something amiss when the truck won't start until you release the key from "START" to "RUN".
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 23,849
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From: McKenzie River
I followed the Rangerstation Duraspark swap for my 84, and no ballast resistor was needed per the instructions, it runs flawlessly. I think that resistor must go, and was only for the 85' yr models. Why... I have never researched, all I know is it WORKS!!