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Today i did some very mild mudding. I got stuck in a rut, so i shifted into reverse and herd a very loud pop. (I waited till i was at idle to shift) Then i wasn't in 4wd anymore (the 4wd and low range light was still on) . I played around with it for a little bit, but i could not get it back into 4wd. Giving up on that, i got it into 2wd and left. As soon as i hit pavement, and about 30mph. There was a very loud rubbing sound. metal on metal. I kicked it into 4wd, sound went away. I pulled over, killed the motor and put it back into 2wd. As i took off again, the same thing happened. Loud metal pop, then metal on metal rubbing. So i drove the rest of the way home in 4wd.(about 2 miles.) About 15 mins after i got home, i started it, 2wd, and drove around the block. It was just fine, no problems what so ever.
It is a 1996 Eddie Bauer edition, with the 5.8L
Any ideas how to trouble shoot this? I have electrical 4wd, I have a BorgWorner Transfer case, not sure how to identify exactly which one, i did pull some serial numbers off it though
(13-58-065-910) and (FITZ-7G360-C) off the electrical motor.
Could this be a malfunction of the motor? not switching between the 2wd and 4wd?
Or am i probably needing to rebuild the thing?
Any ideas on troubleshooting would be appreciated.
I am new, and trying to learn, so excuse me if i say something dumb, or miss something obvious.
Those where the auto-hubs failing on you (they are known for dissengaging when backing off), if you want something reliable, replace them with any of the following manual hubs: Warn Premium hubs, Mile Marker or Superwinch. Also, when engaging or dissengaging out of 4WD, follow the procedure described in the Owner's Manual (when you dissengage the 4WD with auto hubs, you have to roll at least 10ft in the opposite direction you where going, usually means backwards D -> R).
How involving does it get to replace them with manuals? Is it a whole new front end? Or just steering knuckles? Also would the computer be an issue if I swapped? Might it be easier to rebuild the autos?
also Encho, when they first gave me an issue i was not changing to 2wd, i was still in 4wd. I was putting it into reverse.
Although i think your right, my friend and I thought it was coming up front. I'd be more then happy to swap out to a manual hub (i was hoping for that, but Eddie Bauers do not come with it.) Although, i am an 18 year old, i do want to learn how to do all these things. but i don't want to bite off too much i can chew.
For them to DISSENGAGE you needed to have them ENGAGED, don't you? so obviously you where in 4WD when the failure happened. The procedure to replace them isn't too complicated, but you'll need at least one specialized tool, i would recommend this one: Buy Autocraft 4WD Bearing Socket AC675 at Advance Auto Parts
And no, no issues whatsoever, you just take out the autos and replace them with manuals, personally i would pick Warn Premium Hubs. The autos are stupidly expensive (up to $700) and un-reliable.
To take out the autos: using a T20 Torx tip, take the bolts of the hub cap, remove the hub cap, then you can remove the bearing race spring, the bearing and the spring retainer, you should be looking at the main body of the hub now, remove the little clip (around the edge of the body), that should reveal a couple of metal pins, those are the extremes of the lock right, you need to use some thin pliers to squeeze them together and then pull out, the main body should come out along with the lock ring. Remove the C-washer and pull out the splined spacer, then use the special tool to remove the spindle lock nut... I think that should be everything... Use solvent to clean all the old grease and use some good grease in there and in the manual hubs before assembling.
To install the manual hubs just follow the procedure in the instructions that come with them.
You might want to replace several other parts while you are there, like the seals, the bearings (Timken SET37 & SET45 on every side), the ball-joints and the U-joints (precision 377 or 371, or Spicer 5-760x, preferably 377 since they're greaseable), but that could be a complicated job for someone that's just learning.
There's a tag on the door frame that indicates the type of transfer case, and the transfer case has a metal tag attached on the rear that has the defining type.
Yes, these are the ones, the exact model is 20990 19 spline if memory serves, i would do some more hunting for a better price before ordering, try amazon or our sponsors, Jeff's Bronco Graveyard (great sponsor) should carry them too. Have some straight snap ring pliers at hand just in case there are any snap rings you need to take out (can't remember where right now, but i'm pretty sure there is one in there).
I didn't even buy the premiums and they have done.. it was one of the first jobs I did on the Bronco, pretty easy, don't even have to take the tire off. After doing them a few times they can both be taken out in like 10 minutes.
and I forget how the autos are built, but he shouldn't he not need the socket? The hubs are after the spindle nut, you remove the snap ring and they should pull right out.. ah, I don't remember if you had to swap the nuts for thinner ones or something, regardless, you can rent the tool at Autzone for $20.