The 2.8 does indeed have the solid lifters, oil pressure is never a problem. Motor was rebuilt at 365,000 and pulls about 55-60 psi cold and about 40-45 warm on the hi-way, never less than 30psi at hot idle.
With headers, 2100 motorcraft 2bbl carb, cam and dura-spark conversion I leave 2.9s and most 4.0 OHVs in the dust.

The solid lifters do tick slightly at idle, but thats the nature of the beast, and they require periodic adjustment............But, I will take that anyday over the 2.9s woes.

 

Thanks, I prefer solid lifters myself. Every FE I built had a solid cam (usually a Crane 341191)

Do you know if the 2.8 lifters are the same dimensions as the 2.9? I cannot find a clear cut answer with a Google search and it seems on "other" forums nobody wants to answer the question.

Seems, it might be a case of too good to be true if it really is that easy to cure the 2.9 lifter woes by throwing in a set of 2.8 solids.

I have consistent and good oil pressure, however, as mentioned before after a steady run of highway speeds (65+) and coming to a stop and idling at a stoplight the lifters will rattle a bit and the oil pressure lowers a touch. On a hot 90+ degree day after sitting at the stoplight the engine sure seems down on power as well. Certainly from the lifters bleeding off.

But cold start, normal driving etc the oil pressure and lifters are fine.

Josh

 

Time to hit the books..............I don't have any idea if 2.8 solids can be dropped in a 2.9, very interesting. There are many differences 2.8 vs 2.9, like timing gears on the 2.8 vs a chain on the 2.9, solid vs hydraulic lifters, exhaust port positioning, EFI, etc........But they are still both Cologne V6s, somethings must interchange, and some specs must carry over.

 

LOL... while everyone tries to sing Karaoke, I copy and paste with an iphone...

2.8 solid lifter

2.9 hydraulic

So the design is different... 2.8 uses a "dumb bell" design. Which may or may not mean much, The Ford FE engine can go either way both designs.

Couldn't find specs for length and diameter though.

Josh

 

I would love to stuff a 5.0 in my 88.. but the 4.0 looks like the cheapest and easiest choice.. but a 5.0 would have so much more power and probably would get mileage close to the 4.0..
I love the 2.9.. but i hate it when it looses power..the ticking sound i could care less about. Even if you used solid lifters, wouldnt the cam/lifters still get oil starved? Thus wearing them out?

 

hey what size tires do you have and your still getting 23? i have 31-10.50-15s

also i have a new 2.9 motor with only 2500 miles on it and it just started ticking! i dont know what could be the problem never did it before... i herd something about having to have zink in the oil? because of the style of lifters?

 

I have 30" BFG TA/KM2 tires.

Unfortunately most reman rebuilders don't replace cam bearings in a quick rebuild.

On top if that it is the cam bearings that are the weak point in these engines.

I personally recommend diesel grade oil either 10W30 or 15W40. My owners manual calls for 10w40or 15w40

Josh

 

Hate to revive an old thread, but I personally suggest running nothing thicker than 10w-30. Valvetrain oiling in the 2.9's relys only on two feeds in the center cam bearing. Too thick and you will only make your problem worse. This theory was tested on two of my old Rangers. One I ran 10w-40 Pennzoil in since new. Developed the "tick" at 190,000. At 216,000 the motor was done. However, my GT had 10w-30 Castrol since new, and never developed the "tick". Still ran strong and quiet when I finally sold it with 387,000 miles!

 

Hey all,I'm new to the 87 ranger. I just bought one. As my username states,I'm a 6.0techwannabe! That's all I know is the ford diesel lineup. Anyhow,I been a member here for a good minute.

So I got a 87 ranger xlt with power windows tilt,cruise all the good stuff. Hell this things even gotta towing package. Its got 64k original miles. An old dude bought it and kept it in a garage its whole life. I fell in love with it when I saw it.

Anyhow it has 1 problem. It has a tick in the top end. I've been reading through this thread and haven't seen a wright up on this tick issue. It seems to be a common prob so if any1 has a link could they pls post it. If not,I will do a wright up when I tear mine down....than guys!

 

Cam bearings wear which causes a loss of oil pressure to the top end.

Josh

 

I have same problem. I rebuilt the top end and still ticks mine stops and goes sometimes it want tick for a week then its back. So I tried this stuff I found at Auto Zone called Hyperlube. Put it in at oil change and it stopped. But it does back a little between oil changes. I don't understand what is causing this tick but I know what worked for me. Hyperlube!