The pump is going out in my 93 E4OD so i'll be replacing it soon with a rebuilt F5 (upgraded 1995 unit) soon. Its fully rebuilt with all new gaskets, "o"rings, seals, and bushings but the bolt holes are not quite lined up between the two halves. How can I correct this before installation? I've been doing some reading which suggests that there is a different alignment proceedure for the internal pump components (should allready be done) and the exterior bolt holes between the halves. I want to make sure I don't destroy anything during the proceedure.

 

It took me a while to figure out what you were talking about. I have never rebuilt a E4OD, but C6, yes completely. I looked up a diagram, whew, that E4OD stator support has a lot more functions in it than the old C6!
All of the torque converter clutch stuff goes through it now.

It sounds like your rebuilt pump assembly was not assembled properly. They show 11 bolts holding the control body & support to the pump body. The bolts are installed just loosely, and a 10mm alignment bolt is inserted into a certain location, then a tool such and such banding assembly is put around the perimeter of the whole thing and tightened down. And only then are the mounting bolts torqued down. If the person who rebuilt it just bolted the whole thing together without bothering to do this, it makes me wonder if they are just a part replacer and don't really understand what they are doing. That doesn't sound good.

 

The two halves seem to be fastned together somehow, but the 11 permimeter bolt holes are empty at the moment (have to reuse from old pump). I read in a few other posts that you need to line up the permeter bolt holes "as closely as possible"?

 

Do a search on Youtube, there is a video explaining exactly how to work out the E4OD pump.

 

My info is from 1994. maybe 1995 has some difference in assembly. For a 1994, there would be nothing holding the control body to the pump body without those bolts. Unless the 10mm alignment bolt was installed, and only it was holding it all together. I hope not, I wouldn't think somebody should ship it like that.

 

Been really busy lately, but finally managed to get some pics of the pump so everyone can see what i'm talking about. The outside diameter of both pump halves are perfectly aligned with each other, but the 11 bolt holes are slightly off. I read somewhere that you might not ever get the holes perfect, and that aligning the outside perimeter of the two halves was the most important factor. Hopefully the pictures will determine whether or not I need to disassemble and reassemble the thing before putting it into the transmission. I aslo read somewhere that one of the bolt holes as an alignment one and that once you put the bolt through it and into the transmission case the holes will align themselves the rest of the way?



Here you can see the outer edge of both pump halves are aligned



You can see here that this bolt hole isn't completely aligned



Another view of a bolt hole that is slightly off



Both of the brass bushings at the top and bottom of the stator have this spiral "groove" in them are they supposed to?



Top view of the entire pump assembly. Even though the 11 bolts are not installed, the thing doesn't seem to want to come apart.



Bottom view of the entire pump assembly

 

If your 1st Grade teacher is still alive, she needs to come over and beat you with a ruler!
You can't count! "9" is not "11"!

There are 11 control body to pump body bolts as I said before. Your pics shows them as all installed. That's why the pump assembly won't come apart, it's bolted together!

The nine (9) count'em, NINE bolts that are missing on the periphery are the pump bolts, that hold the whole pump assembly to the trans case.

So the rebuilder did not do the job properly. They did not line up the pump bolt holes close enough. Attempting to bolt it to the case the way it is is just going to wipe threads off of the pump bolts. Nothing is going to magically re-align itself, the pump body and the control body are bolted together with 11 bolts, they ain't gonna give. It should go back to the rebuilder to be done properly. Any boob should have seen that the pump mounting bolts wouldn't pass through the way it is, but they sent it out anyway.

The 11 control body bolts are torqued to 18 - 23 ft. lbs, but the whole thing needs to be aligned properly. There is a warning NOT to unbolt the stator support from the control body, as the surface of the control body may warp.

Send it back. If you don't have the tools and procedures to do it right, you could have a mess if you just start unbolting it.

And yes, the oil control grooves are supposed to be in the bushings.

I really question the capability of who ever the rebuilder was. If they can't get the final reassembly correct, and it's obvious it is not, what about the internal work they may or may not have done?

Rebuilding transmissions is precision work. Everything needs to be spot on.

 

LOL I think I was just repeating what I heard. 9-11 I hope thats not a bad omen for this project. I knew about not unbolting the stator, and I know you have to use a band to keep the halves aligned during assembly. Seems like putting one of the pump-to-transmission bolts through while assembling the halves would make it near fool-proof. I'll probably take your advice and send it back, but thats gonna cost me a week and a half worth of additional down time. I have the factory service manual so I might do it myself and check out what they did inside for myself.