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No compression - timing issue or ?

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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 12:17 PM
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No compression - timing issue or ?

D1VE block, (did not change pistons, rings, crankshaft - all cylinders had compression of 125-135 before pulling top end off motor) rebuilt D3VE heads (ported exhaust). Cloyes timing gear set - 3 position key. The gear on the crankshaft is set at 0 degrees and the mark is at 12:00. Mark on camshaft gear is straight down at 6:00. New head gaskets, (head bolts are torqued to 130 ft lbs) new hydraulic lifters, pushrods, (8.55) pedestal rocker arms, camshaft, new rear mail seal, new oil pump, cork oil pan gasket, distributor, timing over/gaskets,

When I put my finger over the #1 spark plug hole (all other plugs are installed and torqued to specs) and crank the motor, it sounds like there is no compression and there is no puff of air coming out of the spark plug hole.

What am I missing??
 
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 02:26 PM
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From: iowa
are you sure the valves aren't too tight? Did you have the heads milled? That will change the length you might need for pushrods since you didn't say the heads have been changed to studs.

It's possible your valves aren't fully closed. suggestion for a test back the rockers off just a little and crank but DO NOT START and see if it has compression.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 10:14 PM
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What are you missing? A compression gauge so you actually know what is going on.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 11:27 PM
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Used a gauge...no compression. I seems the valves are not closing.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 02:28 PM
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Update:
So, I loosened all of the rockers, (I had them tightened all the way down so the fulcrum was seated against the pedestal - so the valves were not closing) then went thru the three step sequence for tightening the bolts down (according to the steps in the Tom Elliot book - How to rebuild the Big Block Ford) finger tight until I could not turn the pushrod by hand, then another 3/4 turn with the socket. After doing this, I have fantastic compression - as I expected it should.

However, there is now a small gap between the bottom of the fulcrum and the top of the pedestal. See picture below:
My question - What do I do regarding the gap? Should I install shims? Can I leave them set as they are, run the engine and then check/tighten the rocker bolts as necessary?
Thanks for the assistance.

 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by monsterbaby
are you sure the valves aren't too tight? Did you have the heads milled? That will change the length you might need for pushrods since you didn't say the heads have been changed to studs.

It's possible your valves aren't fully closed. suggestion for a test back the rockers off just a little and crank but DO NOT START and see if it has compression.
I did not have the heads milled and they were not changed to studs. I am using the stock bolt set up for the rocker arms.

I did what you suggested, see my post above. Am I on the right track with this?

Thank you.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 03:00 PM
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From: iowa
You can buy a shim kit for the pedestals.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by monsterbaby
You can buy a shim kit for the pedestals.

Fantastic. Thank you.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 03:14 PM
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From: iowa
here is a link to them on summit racing

Ford Racing M-6529-A302 - Ford Racing Rocker Arm Pedestal Shim Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com
 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by monsterbaby

Perfect. Those were the ones I was looking at. Just ordered them.
 
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