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How do I know if my block heater has malfunctioned? Is there a way to diagnose it. I ask because my truck does start like it used to when plugged in. She starts like she hasn't been plugged in all night.
Check the cord for burns or chaffing. Does the cord have resistance, it should rad the same as an extension cord in ohms, also try unplugging from block and measuring across the poles for the heater. If it's infinite, it's toast. Ussually they will just trip the breaker so check those as well.
If you have a home depot by you, you could buy a kill a watt meter for $25.00 it shows amperage voltage watts & a lot of other readings. Good device to check the real load of block heater.
The block heater pulls about 1,100 - 1,200 watts of power (have no idea what that is in Ohms or any other measurement).
Youe lower radiator hose should be warm due to the coolant being heated up. The lower radiator hose will warm up before you will be abel to notice the upper radiator hose (untill it gets real cold outside).
Here is a link to an old thread I was part of regarding adding an extention to your block heater and making plugging in easier (pics included in my post within the thread below).
Its getting into the 30s here at night and I still havent pluged in yet
Truck starts Good I do run synthetic oil and the FICM volts 48-49v
If its stuggling now it will really have a hard time when it gets Nasty Cold
If I was in your shoes Id be checking the FICM Voltage
Get a scangauge or something that way you could check the FICM Volts and you could also look at ECT to know if the block heater is working properly
Sean had some notes that he took last winter on temps/time the block heater had been plugged in Hopefulley he will see this and post them for you
I don't plug in unless really really cold (ambient temps in the teens or below - usually 10 or below would be normal for me)... and that is just so I can do it and "look cool" to my buddies.
With Powerservice anti-gel in the fuel (every fill-up and I prefer to double-dose) and synthetic 5W-40 in the crankcase... plugging in isn't even really necessary, but it does help of course.
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