Ok, so the truck is an '02 with 410k on it, I bought it at around 300, so I have no idea what's been replaced before I had it. I'm running a 6637 filter, and a DP-Tuner, with a 4" turbo back. Everything else is stock.

It's always been hard to start cold, so I always assumed it was the glow plugs, and just plug it in over night. Here's where the real problems begin. A few months ago, it started RANDOMLY shutting off on me while it was idling. It would be idling fine, then develop a lope, and shut down. It would do this while cold, or completely up to temp. I drive this truck every night for work, and haven't had the time to figure out what this is. Well, more recently, it's gotten A LOT worse. It started just the other night, while driving, starts to stall. If I'm on the freeway, it'll jerk pretty violently as it shuts off and back on, several times. If I'm idling, it will shut off completely. It always starts right back up with no problems, and it runs great otherwise.

I'm throwing 3 different DTC codes: P1280 - P0113 - P0603

The last two I'm assuming are because of my filter, and my tuner. The first, pertaining to the ICP, on my research has shown most of the time it's a loose UVCH plug. So tonight I bought new glowplugs, and decided to do the 50 cent mod. Well, I've got the drivers side cover off so far, and the plug feels TIGHT. It was all the way seated, and it doesn't wiggle. If I pull on it, I can get it to back off about a 1/16 - 1/8" before it catches the hook on the clamp. Is there any way to tell if the previous owner installed the newer under valve cover harness? If it's not this harness, what could be causing this? Do I need to replace the ICP sensor? Could it be the CPS? I have a new CPS on the way already, but I was under the impression those just went bad, and didn't cause intermittent problems.

I need this truck for work, and need to get it fixed asap. Any help would be awesome, thank you!

 

Your ICP sensor may be on the fritz. Pull the connector and look for oil in the connection. If oil is apparent you need to replace it. The ICP signal tells the PCM what to do with the IPR. If your signal is being compromised, your PCM is telling the IPR to build or dump pressure. That will cause the truck to stumble and die if it relieves too much pressure.

 

I can unplug the ICP sensor and see if it fixes it correct? Is it safe to drive 100 miles or so with it unplugged to see if it fixes the problem?

I'll go out and check to see if there's oil in it in a minute though.

 

You can drive with the ICP disconnected. The PCM will just use default data for it. You may not get the best power or mileage out of it, but it will run.

 

Have you tried removing the chip to see if the symptoms continue?

 

They got you covered. Post with the fix or keep us posted with questions.
Chet

 

I have not, that will be the first thing I try if the 50 cent mod doesn't work when it's back together, and unplugging the ICP sensor doesn't work. I suppose if that doesn't fix it, I'll buy a new ICP sensor, and if it STILL does it, IPR will be next?

Thanks, will do! I'll be back at it tomorrow.

 

......

 

Check your connections on your DP. If they aren't clean or if they are worn it will make the truck act like this. Mine did the exact same thing,and it was the chip connection.

 

Also check the wiring harness near the 42 pin connector. It rubs on the valve cover causing intermittent shorts. I slipped a 4" section of heater hose over the harness where it contacts the vc for protection.

Might as well do the 50 cent mod while in there, even if the connections are ok now.

 

Well, unplugged the ICP, it's COVERED in oil. I can't wait for an ebay ICP to get here, so I get to go spend lots of money at the dealer. Had to take the autolite glow plugs back and get the beru's after reading. Glowplugs are going back in, doing the 50 cent mod, and going to button her back up.

Did it throw P1280 as a code? I know this is a pretty common code for the ICP/IPR system. I'll probably yank it out and leave it out for a week or so to see if it fixes it if nothing else works.

Any chance you have a picture of where?

 

Ding ding ding! Might be the end of your troubles right there.



Here's a pic I stole from Andy aka FatDiesel. Notice the rub spot on the valve cover where the harness normally lies. IIRC the injector wires are usually the most affected due to location in the bundle and the higher voltage (120v).

 

The funny thing is,Banks tells you to pull the chip before running codes,because it will throw many codes n not read right. So with the chip out it ran fine. Took it home,put the chip in,a day or less later,same actions. Had me baffeled for a long time.

 

Ok, quick update, I'm pretty sure whoever owned this truck before me had all service done at a dealer. All the old glow plugs were Beru's, and recently I replaced a waterpump that was an OEM ford water pump. Both of which, I'm sure were not still stock after this many miles.

While doing the 50 cent mod, I'm pretty sure I have the newer UVCH's. As stated my plugs feel tight, and while trying to insert the coin, it won't go as deep as it should. Stealing someone's pics here:

Mine stops here:



Where it should go deeper to here:






Should I grind down the two little plastic pieces that seem to be holding the harness up or just shorten the quarter up more and push it as far as I can? Or should I not do it at all?

 

Here's a picture of my plug, you can see the plastic stand off type piece that's in there that stops the quarter