I'm putting on a new flywheel. (4.0L SOHC) I don't see any distinguishing marks, and all the holes appear to be evenly spaced. Is there an proper orientation, or do I just bolt it on in any orientation?

 

Not sure on that motor, but usually there is a pattern, and you can't make it bolt up if you don't hit it right. Try it, and if you get any resistance, rotate it one hole at a time and try again.

 

There is no distinguishing pattern. All holes are the same size and all are evenly spaced. Based on that I'm 99% sure there is no orientation, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

 

The one's I fiddled with looked the same, but weren't. There was a guy on here a while back trying to force in a bolt....he went kinda silent after a couple of posts about the "pattern". So if you've checked with just your eyeball, you might not see a pattern. If there is no pattern, and no other mark, index, tab, slot etc, then it shouldn't matter how it goes on.

Stand by, you may get another reply, there have been some rebuilds of this engine discussed recently.

 

I have it in loosely right now. All the bolts went in by hand. After I had two of them in I looked down the bore of the remaining bolt holes and everything looked perfectly lined up.

Anyone else?

 

Whats with what's stamped into the pressure plate? "Before install see shop manual clutch sec 08"?? What do I need to do?

 

Probably gives torque specs, tightening pattern, warning about pilot bushing....all the usual stuff.

 

Doesn't it makes sense for the 4.0L the have a neutrally balanced flywheel, since it has an external balancer mounted to the front of the crankshaft?

 

While I have been known to question the accuracy of Haynes manuals, here's what mine says: (I've really got to find either a shop manual or a Chilton's lol)

Removal:
"Carefully inspect the flywheel and pressure plate for indexing marks. The marks are usually an X, an O or a white letter. If they cannot be found, scribe marks yourself so the pressure plate and the flywheel will be in the same alignment during installation."

Installation:
"Position the clutch disc and pressure plate against the flywheel with the clutch held in place with an alignment tool. Make sure it's installed properly (most replacement clutch plates will be marked "flywheel side" or something similar - if not marked, install the clutch disc with the flat side of the hub toward the flywheel). Note: On 1997 and later models, the pressure plate may have an adjustment ring that must be adjusted before installation. Use the following procedure (if equipped):
a) Use a suitable press to press all the fingers on the pressure plate down.
b) There is an adjustment ring integrated within the pressure plate that can be rotated - move it to the extreme counterclockwise position until the springs on the adjuster ring are compressed fully.
c) Hold the adjuster ring in position while releasing the tension on the pressure plate fingers.
d) The clutch pressure plate is now adjusted and ready for installation."

The installation procedure does not mention anything about indexing marks - only the removal procedure does and, I assume, that's to keep the original clutch disc and pressure plate lined up to each other. The installation procedure in the manual assumes you're either replacing the clutch disc or the pressure plate and, since it doesn't mention anything about indexing the two, I would assume it's not too overly concerned about it... These procedures seem pretty "generic" to me...

A lot of assumptions here lol, but I hope it helps...

The last time I replaced a clutch was in 1991 on an '84 Mazda GLC so, don't take anything I say as gospel lol...

 

That is a harmonic balancer. While there may be some basic balance work done by the harmonic "balancer", it's main function is to absorb and dampen vibration in the crank.

 

I have noticed that Haynes and Chilton manuals look very much the same anymore, like maybe the same publisher owns both? I liked the Chiltons when it was the smaller format, seemd more useful. Also Fred Clymer used to put out all kinds of great automotive type books. The good old days.


I read up on this a bit and it seems that if you install a new pressure plate and disk kit it is pre adjusted from manufacturer, and that you only do this re setting of the adjustment ring if you put a new disk in the old pressure plate. I could be wrong, but that seems to make sense.

Also, I read on the Sachs site that that is the case and the reason for the adjuster ring is it self adjusts as disk wears so pedal effort does not increase with wear. I don't know about you but I'll take the simpler old design and increasing pedal effort. Keep it simple so there is less to go wrong.