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I took a good look at my passenger side setup and I have Negative camber. The inner tread is feathering BADLY. I just ordered all new tie rods and adjusting sleeves. I should probably replace all of my leaf spring bushings, shackles and bolts. (I just priced the shackles, bolts, nuts and bushings for all four corners and it's around $100/corner.)
As I recall, when I replaced the ball joints, the passenger side camber bushing spun. Which way do I have to turn it to adjust the camber in the positive direction? Can I just loosen up the upper ball joint to do this, or do I have to tear down the entire passenger side? Do I need a special wrench to turn the bushing with the ball joint still installed, or just a hammer with a drift? Driver's side seems fine.
IIRC its both of them and my dad did it on his bronco with a hammer with a drift lol....but that is my dad who knew the insides and outs of every ford front end from 1934 - 2011....
IIRC its both of them and my dad did it on his bronco with a hammer with a drift lol....but that is my dad who knew the insides and outs of every ford front end from 1934 - 2011....
I would think you would only have to adjust one, but it may change the caster and camber at the same time, so both may need to move to get it all to spec.
I'm not positive on this, better bet would be to look at the service manual and see what they say. I do know there is a certain adjustment range, and if you can't fix it with the one you have, you may need to get a different bushing.
The camber bushing is on the upper ball joint only. There are several different types and most can't be rotated in place. There are different offset bushings available, and the one you have in there will most likely not be able to get in spec. To do it right, you need to hook up to an alignment machine and see exactly what the camber is, then remove the camber bushing and see what degree offset it has and how it is oriented. Then you calculate the offset needed to get the camber (and caster) in spec, install the new bushing, then hook back up to the alignment computer to verify the caster and camber and, most importantly, set the toe-in.
Pivot bushings, ball joints and everything in the front axle is fairly new.
Originally Posted by bashby
The camber bushing is on the upper ball joint only. There are several different types and most can't be rotated in place. There are different offset bushings available, and the one you have in there will most likely not be able to get in spec. To do it right, you need to hook up to an alignment machine and see exactly what the camber is, then remove the camber bushing and see what degree offset it has and how it is oriented. Then you calculate the offset needed to get the camber (and caster) in spec, install the new bushing, then hook back up to the alignment computer to verify the caster and camber and, most importantly, set the toe-in.
Now that's a process. I don't think I know of any tire shop around here that would actually do that. Is this a dealership only alignment? Is the caster and toe in/out adjusted via tie rod ends & drag link?
I did them when I worked for Goodyear and an independent shop after that. I'd call around places like that and ask if they do it and how much they charge.
I asked to ensure the place where I had my tires installed did a full alignment on this truck and they said yes. They put it on the alignment machine and said everything was dead nuts. A few months later I'm getting this feathering. If I'm going to bring it in and have it adjusted properly, I suppose I should replace the inner/outer tie rods, drag link, spring bushings and perhaps the shackles.
Did they give you a printout of the alignment readings? Being toed out will cause feathering on the inside of both tires but if the camber is a little out (maybe still within tolerance) it may be more noticeable on one tire. I would call the shop that did it and ask if they will re-check it.
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