ball joints and alignment
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: UT
ball joints and alignment
Found one bad ball joint (passenger lower) on my '87 BII 4x4, and I have a couple of questions.
I figure I'll replace both ball joints on that side (since it will be apart) Do I need to replace all four, or can I wait until the other side goes bad (wouldn't expect it to take too long)?
An alignment a year back showed that the camber was a little off. I only want to take it apart once if possible. Can I use the information from that alignment to get an adjusting bushing and then get the alignment done after doing the ball joints and have the camber come out right? Or do I need to do the ball joints, have the alignment done, and then redo the ball joints with a likely different adjustment bushing?
I figure I'll replace both ball joints on that side (since it will be apart) Do I need to replace all four, or can I wait until the other side goes bad (wouldn't expect it to take too long)?
An alignment a year back showed that the camber was a little off. I only want to take it apart once if possible. Can I use the information from that alignment to get an adjusting bushing and then get the alignment done after doing the ball joints and have the camber come out right? Or do I need to do the ball joints, have the alignment done, and then redo the ball joints with a likely different adjustment bushing?
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Connecticut
ball joints and alignment
I have an 89 with 160,000 miles. Last year I replaced all 4 ball joints. I reused the factory installed upper adjusters. The camber on mine was negative 0.5 degree on each side due to the springs settling. What I did was insert spring spacers to restore the camber back to near zero. Superlift (check thier website) and probably others make 1/4" spacers that go under the lower spring seat. I used the "hex cut" ones that fit over the upper radius arm bolt/stud, this way I did not have to remove the upper radius arm bolt. I think you can use up to 2 per side. I only needed one on each side.
That bad ball joint will prevent you from accurately determining the proper upper camber adjuster to install unless you replace them and then align it.
Whatever you decide, remember to follow the proper ball joint tightening procedure or they will bind preventing proper steering wheel return, and wear out fast.
I would also check the front axle u-joints, seals, etc. while you are in there. I ended rebuilding the whole front axle except for the differential bearings and gears.
Mark
That bad ball joint will prevent you from accurately determining the proper upper camber adjuster to install unless you replace them and then align it.
Whatever you decide, remember to follow the proper ball joint tightening procedure or they will bind preventing proper steering wheel return, and wear out fast.
I would also check the front axle u-joints, seals, etc. while you are in there. I ended rebuilding the whole front axle except for the differential bearings and gears.
Mark
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Connecticut
ball joints and alignment
One other item for anyone rebuilding a TTB axle. I drilled a hole on the inside of the differential case that intersects with the lowest cover bolt, be careful not to drill all the way through. This will enable you to drain the gear oil by removing that one bolt. It drains slowly but it beats removing the case. I never had good luck pumping one out, you can never get the hose low enough.
Mark
Mark
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Atlanta GA
ball joints and alignment
> wait until the other side goes bad
If you do not really have the money ($40) to do the other side, then wait. The passenger side usually goes first because it takes so much abuse hitting things like manhole covers, sewer grates, potholes, and curbs. If you are going to do an alignment and your truck has over 100K you are much better off doing both sides.
If you do not really have the money ($40) to do the other side, then wait. The passenger side usually goes first because it takes so much abuse hitting things like manhole covers, sewer grates, potholes, and curbs. If you are going to do an alignment and your truck has over 100K you are much better off doing both sides.
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: UT
ball joints and alignment
Got started, got to the point of removing the spindle from the steering knuckle, and i'm still there. I may just need a bigger hammer and more patience, but I wondered if anyone here had some tips for removing it. At this point I prefer not to damage the spindle, but if they're not too expensive, I'll consider chewing the piece up. Also, would anti-seize or some such thing between the spindle and the knuckle prevent this sort of difficulty? I expect the camber bushing will be rusted in as well, any tips for it's removal, if/when I get that far?
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: UT
ball joints and alignment
Originally posted by mjb1962
... Whatever you decide, remember to follow the proper ball joint tightening procedure or they will bind preventing proper steering wheel return, and wear out fast.
... Whatever you decide, remember to follow the proper ball joint tightening procedure or they will bind preventing proper steering wheel return, and wear out fast.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
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From: Atlanta GA
ball joints and alignment
It has been a while (three years) since I did ball joints on a BII. Though I thought you were suppose to press them in (!), put the snap rings on them once pressed in far enough (lower) , then the 40 pounds torque was for the attachment of the castle nut. Not for actually sucking in the ball joint.
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Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Connecticut
ball joints and alignment
Sounds like you did it right. 40 ft-lbs on the lower, then tighten the upper to spec. around 100ft-lbs if I remember correctly, then finish the lower to spec. around 100ft-lbs. Check the manual for the exact specs as I am going on memory. The best way to check it is after you are done torquing the nuts the knuckle should not be hard to turn by hand.
I had the same problem with the stud spinning. I put a jack under the knuckle to "load" the stud so I could tighten it.
Mark
I had the same problem with the stud spinning. I put a jack under the knuckle to "load" the stud so I could tighten it.
Mark
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: UT
ball joints and alignment
Thanks. I may take it apart and do it like mjb did (using the jack), just to have the peace of mind. It kind of concerns me that I had to install the castle nut at all before getting the lower nut to 40 ft lbs.