Batteries or....
I have never seen the dash freak out like this so I was hoping maybe somebody else has dealt with something like this. Bad Batteries or am I barking up the wrong tree? I just bought the truck, has 144k miles. It was having starting issues when I bought it, Previous owner always plugged it in so I replaced the relay and was going to do some glow plugs, but went to start it two days ago and barely got it to crank. Now it won't crank at all just does this. I had the charger on it today and then took this video. Now I have the batteries out of the truck and am charging each individually. I took them to Oreillys and they said that one was good but low on CCA's and the other needs to be charged and retested (possibly bad).
Sorry for the long winded post but I just want to get this thing started so I can track down some other issues it has...
My issue started when I had a new stereo and amplifier installed. Died on me the following weekend after the install. Drove it home from work and it sat for Sat & Sun and wouldn't start Monday morning. Put new batteries and a new high amp (170 amp) alternator in. If I didn't drive it for a week or more the batteries would be very low to dead when I tried to crank it over. Then my alternator would die and the cycle would repeat. New alternator & new batteries, good for 12-18 months; wash, rinse repeat........
What I've found is that after awhile the alternator(s) are no longer producing enough voltage at idle. So at idle the truck is literally running off the batteries. Anything over idle usually brings the voltage back up. Until the alternator actually hard fails the truck won't let you know unless you pay close attention to your voltage gauge. It always seems that the voltage regulator, inside the alternator, is what fails. But the dead batteries are usually the first sign of that the problem is creeping back up again.
Usually, it's the passenger side battery that dies or doesn't charge well for me. But once one dies, the good battery tries to equalize the other, which eventually kills it.
I've done several thing to try and resolve the issue. I'm now on a 250 amp alternator. I've tried installing the ambulance package to bring a second alternator online when I need it. I've replace all the terminals and battery cables all to 0 gauge wire. All it has every gotten me is a 2 year reprieve before the gremlin returned.
Right now I'm in the process of changing out the batteries and alternators (again). But this time I'm putting in a couple of battery isolators at key points on the cables to see if I can isolate the culprit.
I'm not trying to scare you off, and I hope your is a far simpler fix than mine. Your video and description just rung a bell when I viewed your post. I hope you find a solution because I'll be the first to jump in and try it.
My issue started when I had a new stereo and amplifier installed. Died on me the following weekend after the install. Drove it home from work and it sat for Sat & Sun and wouldn't start Monday morning. Put new batteries and a new high amp (170 amp) alternator in. If I didn't drive it for a week or more the batteries would be very low to dead when I tried to crank it over. Then my alternator would die and the cycle would repeat. New alternator & new batteries, good for 12-18 months; wash, rinse repeat........
What I've found is that after awhile the alternator(s) are no longer producing enough voltage at idle. So at idle the truck is literally running off the batteries. Anything over idle usually brings the voltage back up. Until the alternator actually hard fails the truck won't let you know unless you pay close attention to your voltage gauge. It always seems that the voltage regulator, inside the alternator, is what fails. But the dead batteries are usually the first sign of that the problem is creeping back up again.
Usually, it's the passenger side battery that dies or doesn't charge well for me. But once one dies, the good battery tries to equalize the other, which eventually kills it.
I've done several thing to try and resolve the issue. I'm now on a 250 amp alternator. I've tried installing the ambulance package to bring a second alternator online when I need it. I've replace all the terminals and battery cables all to 0 gauge wire. All it has every gotten me is a 2 year reprieve before the gremlin returned.
Right now I'm in the process of changing out the batteries and alternators (again). But this time I'm putting in a couple of battery isolators at key points on the cables to see if I can isolate the culprit.
I'm not trying to scare you off, and I hope your is a far simpler fix than mine. Your video and description just rung a bell when I viewed your post. I hope you find a solution because I'll be the first to jump in and try it.
JamesHajek - Batteries... both of them. These batteries are hooked up in parallel and it is always best to replace them as a pair.
Jlower, I hope I don't have to replace them that often. Lol. I hate wiring issues and chasing them down.
My issue started when I had a new stereo and amplifier installed. Died on me the following weekend after the install. Drove it home from work and it sat for Sat & Sun and wouldn't start Monday morning. Put new batteries and a new high amp (170 amp) alternator in. If I didn't drive it for a week or more the batteries would be very low to dead when I tried to crank it over. Then my alternator would die and the cycle would repeat. New alternator & new batteries, good for 12-18 months; wash, rinse repeat........
What I've found is that after awhile the alternator(s) are no longer producing enough voltage at idle. So at idle the truck is literally running off the batteries. Anything over idle usually brings the voltage back up. Until the alternator actually hard fails the truck won't let you know unless you pay close attention to your voltage gauge. It always seems that the voltage regulator, inside the alternator, is what fails. But the dead batteries are usually the first sign of that the problem is creeping back up again.
Usually, it's the passenger side battery that dies or doesn't charge well for me. But once one dies, the good battery tries to equalize the other, which eventually kills it.
I've done several thing to try and resolve the issue. I'm now on a 250 amp alternator. I've tried installing the ambulance package to bring a second alternator online when I need it. I've replace all the terminals and battery cables all to 0 gauge wire. All it has every gotten me is a 2 year reprieve before the gremlin returned.
Right now I'm in the process of changing out the batteries and alternators (again). But this time I'm putting in a couple of battery isolators at key points on the cables to see if I can isolate the culprit.
I'm not trying to scare you off, and I hope your is a far simpler fix than mine. Your video and description just rung a bell when I viewed your post. I hope you find a solution because I'll be the first to jump in and try it.
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