Maybe the GPR?? if so, go with the Stancor, James

 

Got the stancor on there... I've got a set of glow plugs ready to be installed... I have a feeling it is something deeper than that though... There is absolutely no smoke when cranking and no smoke when it finally catches and starts... It started after I had it plugged in tonight. I need to get it on a scanner and see what the ICP is doing...

 

Hmmmmm, yea, AE the rag, that should tell u a lot. have u checked the HPO Reservoir to see what the level is at in the mornings?

 

Yes sir... It's right there at the top. Got clean fuel in the bowl. I wish I knew somebody around my neck of the woods with AE...

 

How many miles on the truck?

 

It's got 144k miles...

 

if i was home id come help u with the AE.. Doesnt Andrew have AE?

then slap those new glow plugs in there

 

I'm sure he does but he is on the westside and I haven't been over there in a few weeks.

 

Meet him halfway?

 

Ya, maybe... I'll try to find someone closer first.

 

How far from Moses are u? DJ might be able to help

 

75 miles or so

 

[quote=Tugly;10975281]It sounds like something could be going on in your dash. Either something was mis-wired during the install or something is amiss under the dash. For that kind of drain on the batteries when you're running, it would be a good idea to check the voltage on your AIH line and glowplug line to make certain they turn off when they should.

Yeah, I've noticed that whenever I put the charger on the batteries, with the truck off, you can actually here some EMI coming through the audio system speakers. Faint, but definitely there. Which leads me to believe that the amp isn't turning off with the head unit. There is a fused piece of 0 gauge wire running directly from the battery to the amp. Evey reading I take says the Head unit is sending the correct on and off signal like it should. But it get's a bit more complicate than that. I've got a dash computer that runs the Chip/propane/water & meth/ and many other accessories as well as taking sensor inputs from several sources.



There are several of these IO and relay boards positioned around the cab and chassis that feed or are controlled by the computer.

So when I did the wiring for it happens to tap into many systems. I fear that I may have inadvertently tapped into or crossed a line that is overriding the head unit.

I keep telling myself that one day I'll get up the courage to trace it but when I start thinking about how many wires I'd have to isolate and test, I tend to sit back down....(maybe next spring.)

 

AHA! There it is. When I re-wired my dash for all my toys, I made a spreadsheet of the plan. I had the colors of the wires in my truck and the colors of the wires on my devices. The spreadsheet listed what was to go where, then I printed the plan and followed it while wiring, You can find your amp problem in a half-hour with the right tools:

Go to your local electrical supply (like Platt or Consolidated) and buy a "toner" set. Disconnect your batteries and connect the sender to your control wire on the amp and wave the receiver by your relay board until the noise in the receiver tells you which wire it is. When the receiver touches the insulation on the correct wire, you get a loud response, and touching the actual contact makes it obvious you have the same wire that is connected to the sender.

Home Depot or Lowes might sell something like this, but don't try to save too much money on this tool... the cheap ones give confusing readings. A good set will pop over $100. Greenlee and Tempo are good brands, they are used by the pros.

Tempo Toners