Understanding that low voltage is a FICM killer AND understanding that Ford in their infinite wisdom have the 6.0 running on battery the entire time (up to two minutes!) that the glow plug circuit is going each and every morning, I am curious.

Can you respond to this thread with your truck batteries age, rating (850CCA, etc), their float voltage, and the voltage you see at the batteries when the truck is first started while the glow plugs are still running?

I am trying to put together a reasonable minimum voltage number that folks should be testing for (i.e. the low threshold voltage under load when you know that it's time to replace or desulfate your batteries).

Hopefully with this information we can have fewer FICM failures and keep more folks on the road!

Ed
Ed@ficmrepair.com

 

11.6 cold start glowplugs on, 12.7 KOEO after running, 14.2 running voltage (A/M alterator)

 

12.19 battery volts
11.49 KO glow plugs warming
10.70 on start up for a split second (with starter engaged)
12.10 running (before alt. kicks in)
14.07 running (alt charging)
All voltages at battery using multimeter
Battery's are about 2 yrs. old 850CCA

 

I just put in two new batteries last weekend. Interstate MTP-65. 850CCA. So this is a good reference for perfect batteries.

Cold, glow plugs on = 12.0
Alternator on = 13.8 @ idle

I have not checked the at rest volts, but they are brand new and fully charged batteries at rest should be 12.6-12.7.

 

To ricson, you have a problem with one or both batteries. After sitting over night they should be around 12.5 volts to 12.7. 12.7 is optimum.

 

Thanks 69cj Glad i checked them when i did.

 

..... Bump

 

Batteries are Energizer 65-L by Johnson Controls. Purchased and installed Nov '08 at 138,000 miles (current mileage is 232,500). They are rated at 850 CCA but that is all I know about them.

Carrying out this test .... Sun Nov 6th 7:30am.
Engine last shut off .... Friday Nov 4th 6pm.
Block heater plugged in .... No.
EOT and ECT reading this morning on Edge Insight CTS .... both 30F
Oil Rotella T-6 5w-40 recently changed.

Key in the ignition and turned but not cranked ...
Batteries 11.4
FICM 48 - 48.5

After about 20secs glow plug light goes out.

After about 1 minute batteries go up to 11.9

Shortly after 1 min, turn the key to crank the engine ....
Engine starts with some small coughing and a few puffs of dark smoke. Batteries reading goes up and bounces around between 13.8 and 14.1
FICM drops and bounces around between 42.5 and 46. One flash of a 41.0 seen.

About 1 minute later the FICM climbs to 48.0 and occasionally bounces around between 47.5 and 48.5 but for the most part is stable.

I know for a fact that if I plugged the truck in and had my EOT and ECT up around 100F I would not see the low FICM voltages and the alarm on my Edge wouldn't be triggered.
Similarly, if I got home late and left early the next morning and the engine only cooled into the 60F's my FICM voltage would be good too.

I've been plugging in the truck for 3 hrs every morning as the weather has gotten colder specifically to avoid the low voltage until I can save up some $$$ for the repair.

Home that helps Ed.

 

Batteries Mfg in Sept 2011, 800CCA, 12.7 float, 11.7 started/w glow plugs on.

 

Truck: in my sig below.
Batteries: Duralast Gold (AutoZone) 65-DLG, 850CCA, 1000@32, 150 Reserve capacity, 9 months old

12.67v - measured with multimeter before key on
12.5 - measured by SGII before key on
11.6 - SGII with key on
11.9 - SGII slight climb during 10sec of buzz
10.8 - SGII during crank before engine start
12.3 - SGII 3sec after start
14.0 - SGII after 30sec idle

14.2 to 14.4 bounced back and forth like a clock ticking for 5min after start.
14.2 steady after 7min of idle.

Note- the 12.5 may have been a stored value as I just pressed the SG's power button. Key was not in the ignition yet. Ambient temp was showing as 66deg F on the heater control panel so I'm think glow plug operation was shortest duration in software. Speaking of that, here's my flash versions if you have any use for that info:

Calibration ID - $7E8
VXCF1D6.HEX*
Calibration ID - $7ED
AMZ2AL12
Calibration ID - $7E9
TQCJ0DW.HEX
Calibration Verification Number - $7E9
C01817EB
Calibration Verification Number - $7E8
48420E7A
Calibration Verification Number - $7ED
8C27C977
*

 

I'd be checking into the FICM further...... It should never drop below 45volts. Hopefully will stay above 46 volts. Look here for full info.....https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html

 

Thanks BP. Trust me I know ... it's on my radar. My heart sank the first time that FICM alarm went off. I won't be repairing this myself for fear of doing more damage.
Like Bpounds, all this started to happen very recently after a new flash, when I had my tranny work done. Up until then I never had an alarm go off on my Edge. Maybe coincidence, plus the colder mornings too. Who knows. One thing I do know ..... under 45volts on cold or chilly starts. No problems above 60F.

But if you send me the readings off your FICM and write them on the back of four $100 bills I promise to get mine taken care of immediately

 

LOLOLOLOLOLOLOL

 

Colm, I installed my rebuilt FICM yesterday. Picked it up on eBay so that I didn't have any downtime during the shipping periods. I had it out and back in in about an hour, and that included draining a couple gallons of coolant. It took me over 2 hours the first time, last weekend. But once you've done it once, it is pretty easy. Now the voltage stays at 47-48 at all times, even on a cold soaked block.

Now I'm going to have my original rebuilt and probably put it back in.

 

Thanks Bill,

I'd thought about buying a second as an option to eliminate down time.

Any issues with the e-bay experience? I used them once years ago and had an identity theft situation a short while later, so I've always been suspect of that site since then.

Mind me asking which one you bought on e-bay? I see a multitude of repair services, and then a few for $395 up to $495 for an outright purchase.