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removing the front clip

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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 05:29 AM
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removing the front clip

Which bolts do I have to take out to remove the front clip in one peace?
 
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 07:12 AM
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lets see if I can do this from memory: 3 bolts on each side at top of firewall for inter fenders, one bolt at the bottom of each front fender, one bolt each fender inside the door around top hindge area, radiatior support bolts on frame. and don't forget the rubber straps for the inter fenders. I don't think i forgot anything, feel free to correct me if I did.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 07:33 AM
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That sounds about right.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 09:32 AM
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Thanks for the answers.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 01:53 PM
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I will second that. sounds right.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 05:52 PM
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From: Alvarado, TX
Originally Posted by 78longbed
3 bolts on each side at top of firewall for inter fenders, .
One little note on this part. Remove the three nuts and bolts that run side to side throught the horns on the firewall right behind the hood hinges rather the the three that mount the horns to the firewall. This way the horns still support the back of the clip after all the fasteners are removed. Also mark a line on the horns for lining up the inner fenders during reassembly.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 06:03 PM
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I like to drill 1/8" holes in panels prior to removal. Then, during reassembly, just put a 1/8 pin in and all is lined back up nicely
 
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 06:16 PM
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Your right Fordworth, that's what I meant, I just said it wrong. Good point.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 05:50 AM
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Great info guys, thanks alot!
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 01:01 PM
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From: Lower Mainland B.C.
Originally Posted by 78longbed
lets see if I can do this from memory: 3 bolts on each side at top of firewall for inter fenders, one bolt at the bottom of each front fender, one bolt each fender inside the door around top hindge area, radiatior support bolts on frame. and don't forget the rubber straps for the inter fenders. I don't think i forgot anything, feel free to correct me if I did.
Four bolts that hold front bumper on, if bumper is not already removed.

My two cents:

If the rad support bolts are corroded past the point of no return you may have to cut them off from underneath, remove the rubber and cut the bolt if you plan to reuse the metal parts of the mount.

The one bolt behind the door is possible to remove without taking the door off, I like my 1/4 inch drive ratchet for this use, more room for my hand and less weight, my heavier 3/8" drive makes it a bit more awkward.

The bolt at the bottom of the fender goes into a clip that is easy to break, the bolt then spins and it's either visegrips or grinder time. Use some good penetrating oil to loosen up the bolt first.

The rubber straps for the inner fenders, I have not been able to remove them from the firewall with the front clip in place, I have to remove them from the inner fender itself, again soak it with penetrating oil of your choice beforehand.

Other things to keep in mind:
You may want to undo the wiring as well.
Some trucks have a light mounted to the underside of the hood. Hoods may also have a ground strap to the firewall. Some trucks had a key lock on the side of the hood that may or may not have wiring there as well. Horn wiring. Alternator wiring and solenoid. The "gray box". The wiper fluid reservoir pump wire plug and fluid hose. Some wiring is clipped onto the driver side inner fender beneath the master cylinder.

Heater hoses may or may not be strapped to the inner fender as well.

Obviously if you have got to the point where you are asking about bolts you already know this stuff but for future "searching" people it would be a good idea to undo the rad hoses as well, after undoing the fan shroud and laying it on the fan while the rad can drain and be removed to make the clip a little lighter to maneuver off of the truck. If there is an aux cooler for the trans or for power steering or for engine oil attached to the rad, then the lines to those must also be undone, be sure to borrow or buy the line wrenches so you don't round the fittings. (not sure if "line wrenches" is the right name for them but I use them for brake lines). Ditto for A/C if the lines are passing through the rad support, they must be undone as well.

I will copy his sentiment as well, because there is always something
Originally Posted by 78longbed
I don't think i forgot anything, feel free to correct me if I did.
 
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