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Confused about gauges....

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Old Oct 23, 2011 | 07:43 PM
  #1  
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Confused about gauges....

This past year my F350 has gotten a Riff Raff 6637 intake kit and a 4" turbo back exhaust with the 3" downpipe. Those two things had a marked improvement. Now I'm looking to chip it (probably DP or PHP which will be another thread) but I need gauges first.

I know to stay away from the Glowshift gauges as my friend has had nothing but problems with them.

I've been looking at Autometer and Isspro gauges but there seems to be many different type of each. I want to get the trans, boost, and EGT gauges and the typical A pillar pod that I'd like to match to my trucks grey interior. I'd also like to gauges to look like they belong in the truck and work like all the other components of the dash work as far as dimming, ect.

What's a good type of gauge to go with and how much should I be paying? There's an diesel performance outfit near me that will install autometer gauges (EGT, boost, trans) with the pillar for $450. Is that a good price? I don't mind doing stuff myself if I have some help, particularly with drilling the tap for the EGT (pre-turbo).
 
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Old Oct 23, 2011 | 08:01 PM
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I bought Autometer Ultralites. I paid 227 for all three trans, boost and EGT.. They do not match the factory gauges but I think the GS style do get pretty close.

Isspro makes some that match the gauges pretty good too. They are great quality, made in Oregon but you will pay a little more for these.

For the pillar, I think I paid another 40 bucks or something like that.

As for having somebody install them. They are pretty easy to install. Just takes a little cutting, drilling and running wire. But 450 isn't too bad for the install as long as you get the gauges you want...

Hope this helps..
 
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Old Oct 23, 2011 | 08:17 PM
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What you will need to know is what series they are including for that price. If it is Z series then it isn't a very good price, but if it is a high end Autometer series then possibly. Be sure you compare apples to apples, ie electronic or mechanical, LED or incandescent backlit etc.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2011 | 08:29 PM
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Good advice Clay. I'll have to find out the specs on the gauges.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2011 | 08:50 PM
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how you hook your gauges up and if they are LED or Incandescent will make a huge difference in matching them to the dash.

Mine match perfect and are also on a separate circuit.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 07:01 AM
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I had an Autometer gauge with nut terminals for wiring, but didn't like the results.



I bought Isspro EV2s and they were much easier to wire.

 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 08:38 AM
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There is zero need to freak out over drilling a hole and tapping it for the pyro, I really don't understand why people get all worked up over it. Can you drill a hole in a 2x4? Then you can drill a hole in your manifold, its no more difficult. Tapping is simple too, just remember to back the tap out 1/2 a turn for every full turn in, and don't tap too deep because the threads are tapered.
I have Isspro EV2 gauges in my truck, but they don't match the factory gauges (white face/blue lettering/red pointers). You can get EV2's that are a near perfect match for the factory gauges though. I've had 3 sets of Isspro gauges in 3 different trucks and have never had a major issue with anything, I'd highly recommend them.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 09:32 AM
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Isspro's customer service is awesome too.

I had some issues with boost sensor and they replaced it for me.


People freak out about tapping the manifold because of getting metal shavings up in the manifold and then that going though the turbo, which isn't the greatest idea.

As chase said, tap a bit, check the fit, tap some more, check again.

if you run the tap all the way in, you'll probably make the hole to big, because its NPT, so its tapered.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Talyn
People freak out about tapping the manifold because of getting metal shavings up in the manifold and then that going though the turbo, which isn't the greatest idea.
IF any shavings were to remain in the manifold, they would be so small and so thin that they would get spit right out the exhaust without doing any damage to anything. We aren't talking about anything with any size or mass to it, there is practically no chance of anything damaging the turbo.
People seem to think that a tap is some complicated thing that requires a flippin degree in engineering to run. If you can turn a screwdriver, you can use a tap. I'd be willing to bet there are a bazillion pages on how to properly use a tap if you used Google. It's not freakin' rocket science people... I can't imagine paying someone to do this job for you unless you're one of those people who could destroy an anvil with a rubber mallet.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by superduty4x4
IF any shavings were to remain in the manifold, they would be so small and so thin that they would get spit right out the exhaust without doing any damage to anything. We aren't talking about anything with any size or mass to it, there is practically no chance of anything damaging the turbo.
People seem to think that a tap is some complicated thing that requires a flippin degree in engineering to run. If you can turn a screwdriver, you can use a tap. I'd be willing to bet there are a bazillion pages on how to properly use a tap if you used Google. It's not freakin' rocket science people... I can't imagine paying someone to do this job for you unless you're one of those people who could destroy an anvil with a rubber mallet.
To add to that, you are drilling straight up... Most of the shaving's hit you in the face... You can thank gravity for this one. Oh and the fact that drill bits shed material out not push it in...
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by superduty4x4
...one of those people who could destroy an anvil with a rubber mallet.

You rang?
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by superduty4x4
IF any shavings were to remain in the manifold, they would be so small and so thin that they would get spit right out the exhaust without doing any damage to anything. We aren't talking about anything with any size or mass to it, there is practically no chance of anything damaging the turbo.
People seem to think that a tap is some complicated thing that requires a flippin degree in engineering to run. If you can turn a screwdriver, you can use a tap. I'd be willing to bet there are a bazillion pages on how to properly use a tap if you used Google. It's not freakin' rocket science people... I can't imagine paying someone to do this job for you unless you're one of those people who could destroy an anvil with a rubber mallet.

I've watched lots of guys bust taps and screw stuff up with taps.

You can tap threads on the way in, and tap threads again on the way out. Just need to take your time and be patient when tapping with NPT taps.

I can understand people being scared of tapping stuff, but gotta learn sometime.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by BuckHammer

You rang?
I need to see this. haha.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by BuckHammer

You rang?
Go sit in the corner. Don't touch anything!

Originally Posted by Talyn
I've watched lots of guys bust taps and screw stuff up with taps.

You can tap threads on the way in, and tap threads again on the way out. Just need to take your time and be patient when tapping with NPT taps.

I can understand people being scared of tapping stuff, but gotta learn sometime.
If you can manage to bust a tap off in the thin metal of the manifold, then you need to go sit in the corner with BuckHammer. I could see someone breaking off a tap in thicker metal, but in the manifold? You'd have to be doing it REALLY wrong, or have a very cheaply made tap.
You can tap threads on the way OUT??!? 'Splain that one to me if you could.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by BuckHammer

You rang?
Hahahahaha
 
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