I am replacing my front shock on my 50 F1 and the lower mount is rusted bad and needs replaced. How do you remove these? Are they threaded into the frame cross member or are they just pressed in? I heated it and applied liquid wrench and it will not press out. I know I can get a new one from Johns trucks so I just need to get this one out. Any suggestions?

 

I'm not sure I'm reading your question correctly but on my F-1 the lower front shock mount is attached to the front axle, not the frame cross member. It's held on with a nut and lockwasher. Once they are removed, the mounting stud should come out. If you have the shop manual it's shown on P. 197, Fig. 2. Maybe someone else can post that diagram. Here's a picture of my front end.

 

My shock mount does go into the front axle as well. I have removed the shock and the nut on the back side and it will not come off. Do you know if this mounting stud is threaded through the axle or is it a press fit?

I tried to post a picture but could not figure out how to.

 

It is not threaded nor is is a press fit, it's just stuck - Spray or dribble whatever is your favorite rust buster and let it work - Place the nut back on the stud and get it so that the outer face of the nut is flush with the end of the stud - Then apply force with a BFH - Repeat as necessary.

 

Thanks for the direction on this. I had to heat it up several times and used rust breaker but it would not come free. I had to drill out the middle to about a 3/8 diameter and then I could get it to move with the BFH. Thanks

 

I'm curious, isn't the part in the axle tapered?

 

The part I took out on a 1950 F1 does not seem to be tapered. It looks like a straight shank.

 

A few days ago, I took apart two front axles that I had. The lower shock mounts, on the axle, are bolted from one side and the other side has the space for the shock. Unbolt the side that doesn't have the space for the shock and then hammer it out by using a punch. Leave the nut even with the top of the bolt and hammer with a BFH. You may need to preheat the area if it's too rusted.

 

Where can I buy a new (or used) lower shock stud for the '50 F-1? I have checked with the major suppliers of F-1 parts, no luck. Thanks in advance for any leads.

village7

 

I have four (4) used that are in good shape that were just removed from two separate axles.

They're also available new through any of the repro parts vendors, like Mac's Antique Auto Parts, Dennis Carpenter, Sacramento Vintage Ford, Classic Haulers, etc.

 

I found that the shock studs from the vendors you mentioned don't bolt thru the axle, their's bolt to a lower spring/rearend bracket. What do you have planned for the used ones?

 

You're right. I didn't see them listed. Several months ago someone else was looking for a set and they reportedly found a pair new from a supplier. I just assumed they were readily available.

I sent you an email.

 

I decided to go to Lowes and buy a grade 8 bolt and washers to space the shock out. You can get the bolt, nylock nut, and washers for about $7. the replacement part online is about $20 plus shipping. Worked great and about 1/4 of the cost.

 

So its 4 years later for this thread and I ran into a similar situation with my lower front shock absorber studs on my '53 F3.

I had the frozen stud in the axle situation as per above. This sucker wouldn't come loose. I to tried my favorite rust buster and a BFH pounding on the nut like suggested but the stud would not budge. So I took one more measure, I put a nut on the other side of the stud and tightened all the way on and then took an impact wrench and tightened and then let the impact wrench vibrate the heck out of the stud for 30 seconds or so.

I was hoping that the vibration would help break the rust in-side the axle adhering to the stud.

I then heated the stud with just a propane torch and then applied the BFH one more time and it started to move. Within about 10 blows it was out.....and it was rusted solid in the hole. Just to confirm, these studs aren't pressed in or screwed in, they are "slide-in-&-tighten". Once cleaned up, they work like a charm.

As for the other stud, the stud was loose in the axle and spun freely...and was actually bent a bit because of this looseness. So I vice-gripped the shock absorber side's collar and hit the other side with an impact wrench, heat and penetrating oil....to no avail. This went on for two evenings with no success. But on the third evening of repeating "oil-heat-vibration", the nut came loose and I was able to get the stud out of the axle. I then put the bent stud in my shop press and made it straight again....chased the threads and they're as good as used-new. Moral of the story on this stud was patience and allowing the rust-buster to do its job.

Here's some pics reconstructed once I had everything cleaned up.







Example of the BFH and pounding the stud loose and through. The nut got mashed, but a minor price to pay for success.







Example of torquing a nut on and holding for 30+ seconds to shock the rust in the axle free.





Example of getting a stubborn nut off that is holding the stud in place, but the stud spins. This was the 3 day project from above.





Success. Both studs now look like this and slip into the axle very easily for re-installation & tightening.