I unplugged the RAP module in my 1995 ford explorer, and when i go to plug it in, it sets off the alarm. How do i plug it in with out it gong off? Please help!! I unplugged and (tried) to plug back in the bottom plug BTW.

 

Have you tried disconnecting the battery, then plugging the RAP in, then reconnecting the battery? You could try just removing the fuses for the RAP, but there is probably more than one fuse for it and it will just be more "reliable" to disconnect the battery. If taking that approach still causes the alarm to go off, then I suspect you have an input to the RAP that is suggesting to it there is a reason to alarm. May I ask why the RAP was disconnected to begin with?

-Rod

 

I have tried plugging it in then reconecting the battery. Would it matter that i only unplugged the negative terminal? And when i bought it off a guy,he saidhe unplugged it, had the same problem, so just left it.

 

It wouldn't matter if you only disconnected the negative terminal, that still opens the circuit to the battery. Sounds like there's probably an input to the RAP that is telling it there's a violated zone, or the RAP is faulty.

-Rod

 

The guy i bought it off of said it was plugged in before, but he unplugged it, and thats when the problem started...Could it have to do with something with all the doors being open when i plugged ut in?

 

I really need help on this. I want it back to normal..

 

I should have a wiring diagram for the 1995 RAP module if that would help you. Do you have a multimeter or digital test light that you could use to check the inputs out?

When you reconnected the ground cable at the battery were the doors closed? I wouldn't expect that the hood sensor being grounded would cause the RAP to sound the alarm since the system doesn't typically alarm when the battery is reconnected. Unless maybe the alarm was triggered when the RAP was disconnected and it happens to have non-volatile memory so it's still in the alarm mode. Do you have a key fob for the truck so you can attempt to silence the alarm after reconnecting the RAP?

-Rod

 

nvm. got it figured out. But not much help to be honest. Shorod provided the only help, and thanks man.

 

I am having a RAP problem in my 2002 F250 I think, can anyone verify it for me?

Issue at hand: When I turn off my truck, sometimes the stereo and windows still work, sounds normal for a RAP Circuit right? How about when you open the doors and the radio's still playing and the Windows can still go up or down?

Now if I disconnect the battery, and then reconnect it the problem stops! Could that be my RAP Circuit or is that something else? I just want to figure this thing out and get it back to normal because this is really the only problem my truck has giving me EVER!!! Its a 2002 F250 Ext Cab XLT Super Duty. It has the 5.4L N/A, and is at about 102,800 miles right now. I'd like to fix this though so I don't have to keep disconnecting my battery. Sometimes everything works fine and they stop going up and down and the stereo cuts off when the door opens, but it works maybe 2-3 times after disconnecting the battery, and then we are back to the same ol' crap lol! If anyone can give me some advice/info on this I'd appreciate it! Also, where is the RAP Circuit located? Thanks guys!!

If anyone knows of any good programmer chips for better Fuel Economy, please feel free to chime in!! Im in the market for one of them as well because as of now I am getting about 8/City and 12/Hwy. So if anyone knows of a good Programmer for my truck please let me know! Listed below is all the info on my truck, and I have a pic of it in my Garage! Thanks guys!!

2002 F250 Ext Cab XLT Super Duty
5.4L N/A
Aprox 102,800 miles
Flowmaster Dual Exhaust
3" Body Lift
315/75/16 BF Goodrich A/T's
16"x12" Chrome Bullet Hole Wheels
4:10 Gears
Steel plate Roll-N-Lock Bed Cover

 

The issue with the windows and radio still working after the door is open sounds like it might be a faulty door ajar switch. It maybe never sees the door open up, and therefore the Accessory Delay never trips. You would try starting the truck with the door open and see if the Door Ajar indicator shows up. I'm not sure on the F250 if that's a light in the instrument cluster or a notification in an information center.

As for the fuel economy, if that is poor for an F250 (I'm not sure as this is the Explorer forum) you don't need a programmer, you need to figure out why it is getting such poor economy. Is the truck in need of a tune up? Are the oxygen sensors not reading correctly? Is the air filter plugged? Do you have a vacuum leak somewhere? Etc.

-Rod

 

Yeah Shorod, that's what my Dad and I thought too. But I wasn't sure if it was that or the RAP Module because it does it even when the truck is off and the key isn't in the ignition. I will check the door ajar light first thing in the morning though to see if it show's up or not! I just thought maybe it would be the RAP Circuit/Module because after I shut the truck off, open the door, and its still working.. It stops once I disconnect the battery and reconnect it again. The problem goes away, even with the door open..?

And yeah I think that's bad for the F250, because my Father has a 2002 E250 4x4 Van that went to the Quigley plant in PA and his is averaging about 14/City and 17/Hwy. They both weigh about the same (mine might be slightly heavier by about 200-400LBS) and they both have the 5.4L V8. Really the only difference between the 2, is their Frame, and their rear gears. Mine has the 4:10 and his has 3:73. I've been meaning to check my air filter here recently because I haven't in a few months(I try to keep it cleaned out). I just keep getting forgetful because I get pretty tied up with work and trying to spend time with the Wife on my downtime. (it'll be done first thing in the AM though)

But as far as a tune up.. I think the truck should be pretty good in that area. I had the spark plugs changed about 5,000 miles ago because at that time the truck had 98,000 miles on her(Which shes now at 102,7xx). I've always changed the oil and oil filter though at 3,000 miles and have always used the recommended 5w-20. I try to stay on top of things like that to make her last because shes been such a good truck!

But I apologize about posting in the Explorer section lol. I am new to this site, and haven't been able to find anything(Forums) on RAP Module's/Circuit's that are related to F250's. I'm still learning on how to navigate myself around the site though and am in desperate need of some answers on these matters because all of the info I have got so far has left me a bit confused on what to do lol!

But I will have to check into the Door Ajar a bit more, and maybe looking into some tune up options for her as well! Any personal opinions on certain Programmers out there though? I can say though that my Father does have a programmer in his Van, so I was wondering if that maybe was why he's pushing a little more MPG out of his?? That's my main reason in researching them, hoping it might help me save a few dollars at the end of the year too!

I appreciate your response and thank you for the advice/info though Shorod! If I could, I'd offer ya a beer for the help!

 

I have used the SCT programmer for my Aviator. Other than giving all the stored parameters a fresh start each time the program is changed (including back to stock), there's not much that is going to improve fuel economy if the truck already has an issue. If you're convinced that the fuel economy is below what it should be AND your driving habits are not "aggressive", then you really would be best served to find the issue first and fix it.

For example, did you put start spark plugs in or aftermarket? Have you changed the oxygen sensors recently? Do you have a performance air filter? If so, have you recently cleaned the MAF sensor (oiled performance filters can coat the MAF sensor and cause fuel economy and driveability issues)? Have you monitored manifold vacuum at idle to see if you might have a vacuum leak?

-Rod

 

Yeah there's a Tuner shop not too far from my house that use's the SCT Programmer & they also do Custom Tunes! A buddy of mine said that I should look into them because they usually are pretty good!

But when I had the spark plugs done, I had the Ford Dealership do all of it for me, but I bought Motorcraft Spark Plugs for it(which I believe they were the Stock Spark Plugs, not any aftermarket/Performance ones). My Father told me to use those because they are made for Ford's pretty much. But the Ford Dealership had checked everything out and said everything in the truck looked good & nothing else needed to be done. They said the Wires didn't even need to be replaced because they were still in good, functional conditions! Which is when they proceeded to tell me about how the 3-Valve 5.4L were having Spark Plug issues around 100k Miles but I lucked out because my 5.4L is a 2-Valve!

I ordered some breaks for it not too long ago, I guess I'll check if I need a new O2 Sensor along with the MAF Sensor. I haven't really checked to see if there are any vacuum leaks but I don't think there are any to my knowledge because it always idles normal?

I was thinking it was getting worse gas mileage then it should because of the oversized tires and wheels, along with the Gears in the Rear. Which is why I was hoping if I put a Programmer in it, I was hoping maybe it would give it a little more power to make up for pushing the extra weight added by the tires and wheels which would make up some of the lost Fuel Economy?

Oh, and I checked the Door Ajar today, with the truck on and the door open, the light is showing on the dash that the door is open. And the Air filter was pretty clean, just a little dust/dirt on her, so I cleaned her out and put her back in! I'm going to continue to check for that door Ajar light every time I get in and out of the truck though just to make sure it registers that the door is open EVERY single time though. Just to make sure it wasn't just catching it then, and doesn't miss it every once in a while.

,Tim

 

The programmer will probably allow you to change the speedometer/odometer to make up for the change in wheel size. I'm guessing that when the larger wheels as well as rear end gears were changed they probably didn't do anything to account for those changes in the speedometer/odometer readings. If that's the case, the odometer may be so far off that it's causing the fuel economy numbers to look really bad. Have you tried to compare your speedometer reading with a GPS speed reading?

-Rod

 

I don't have a GPS in the truck, usually just go off of Google maps for directions. I do know that the Speedometer is off a little. Went past one of them signs about a couple weeks ago that read off your speed as your passing it and my speedometer said I was doing 65 and the sign said I was doing 68. So I believe its off by about 3 MPH. I didn't know that this could effect it? I guess the chip would help me in that area though, so I could re-calibrate it for the oversized tires!

Im thinking I'll probably just order one though anyways and see if it helps out any at all, that way I can fix the speedometer problem as well! Because I don't want my odometer getting messed up and it not reading the actual mileage of the truck. Because the tires and wheels were put on not too long ago. They have only been on the truck for the past 5000 miles (According to the odometer). I had them put on shortly before I had the spark plugs done. Which was about 3-4 months ago!

I guess I'll just order me a programmer though so I can fix the speedometer because I don't want it reading the wrong mileage that's on the truck. Because I haven't really drove her much (As you can tell by the low Mileage on her), and I'd like it to read/be around the actual mileage on her incase I do ever decide to trade her in on a new one or decide to privately sell her to purchase a new one! Because right now she's still Kelley Blue Booked at 13,500. Which isn't too bad for an 02