...the dark side.
...the dark side.
I just sold my '97 F250HD w/ Windsor 351 and now shopping for a '96 or '97 4x4 Crew Cab PSD.
I've spent some time on this site and have read enough of the threads to make me dizzy. I feel a bit overwhelmed with all the information. Looking for some help (advice).
Purpose for this truck will be a 4x4 recreation platform on which I'll mount my full size Callen camper for remote trips to Baja. No towing, no racing. I just want reliabililty and adequate power to get me through the sand and over off road terrain. I will spend weeks at a time off the pavement and any services. For this reason I was leaning towards an all stock truck but have found very few '96 or '97's w/o mods.
Two trucks that I am considering do have several mods and wondering if anything in the vehicle descriptions might fly red flags or at least prompt questions or concerns.
Truck #1- 1997 Ford F-350 crew cab 7.3 diesel w/ jake brake, chipped, shift kit, automatic trans. 230,000 miles.
Truck #2- 1996 Ford F-350, Edge programmer w/ K@N intake, stock muffler, but no CAT, Garrett Turbo, oversized downpipe, new Tow Matrix transmission. 300,000 miles.
Thanks for looking.
I've spent some time on this site and have read enough of the threads to make me dizzy. I feel a bit overwhelmed with all the information. Looking for some help (advice).
Purpose for this truck will be a 4x4 recreation platform on which I'll mount my full size Callen camper for remote trips to Baja. No towing, no racing. I just want reliabililty and adequate power to get me through the sand and over off road terrain. I will spend weeks at a time off the pavement and any services. For this reason I was leaning towards an all stock truck but have found very few '96 or '97's w/o mods.
Two trucks that I am considering do have several mods and wondering if anything in the vehicle descriptions might fly red flags or at least prompt questions or concerns.
Truck #1- 1997 Ford F-350 crew cab 7.3 diesel w/ jake brake, chipped, shift kit, automatic trans. 230,000 miles.
Truck #2- 1996 Ford F-350, Edge programmer w/ K@N intake, stock muffler, but no CAT, Garrett Turbo, oversized downpipe, new Tow Matrix transmission. 300,000 miles.
Thanks for looking.
K&N air filters are not optimal for these trucks. They don't filter thoroughly enough, apparently. Also, Edge programmers are known to ruin the PCMs on these trucks. I suggest you go with a manual transmission, and you can hunt down my various threads that will help you understand why I make that recommendation if you want to.
The following link is truck-buying advice for Super Duty 7.3L trucks, but most of it applies to the old body style Powerstrokes. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...questions.html
That's all I've got on this one.
Edit: Four posts over nearly five years of membership? Holy cow!
The following link is truck-buying advice for Super Duty 7.3L trucks, but most of it applies to the old body style Powerstrokes. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...questions.html
That's all I've got on this one.
Edit: Four posts over nearly five years of membership? Holy cow!
...thanks mucho guys. @BuckHammer, I printed out the truck buying sheet, great info for a newbie to the diesel motors. Thanks. @Tayln, I'm in So. Cal right now, but planning on traveling to OR this week to check out a handful of trucks I found on Craigslist. I spoke to the owner of truck #1 and apparently a jake brake is installed?
A jake brake would require reworking on the heads.
He probably did the EBPV mod and is calling it a jake brake.
Brownie and a few others are up in OR, get with them for some help.
He probably did the EBPV mod and is calling it a jake brake.
Brownie and a few others are up in OR, get with them for some help.
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For what you would use this truck for I would suggest buying a truck with 4.10 LS rearend.
For truck number one, the jake brake is probably just an exhaust brake.
No matter what truck you buy, you should definately put a different intake on it and a 3" downpipe, and if you weren't in california delete/gut the catalytic converter.
For truck number one, the jake brake is probably just an exhaust brake.
No matter what truck you buy, you should definately put a different intake on it and a 3" downpipe, and if you weren't in california delete/gut the catalytic converter.
Also, chips and a STOCK automatic tranmission would throw a flag for me. These autos aren't great transmissions in stock form. Also, for what your looking to do, an auto might get pretty warm, so a transmission temp gauge would be needed with an auto trans. Wouldn't hurt to have an aftermarket transmission fluid cooler.
If your looking for dead nuts reliability, I would look for a 5 speed unless you want to spend some money making the auto reliable.
For truck #2, the K&N filter throws a flag for me. Check the turbo compressor wheel by removing the intake. If it looks sandblasted or has chipped fins, walk away.
Tow Matrix transmission throws a flag also. It's tough to get a good rebuilt E4OD that will last. We usually stick to RacerX, BTS, or John Wood for reliable built auto transmissions that will take tons of abuse. Research this tranmission and determine whether it's a good transmission or not. I've never heard of it before. Many people get "performance" rebuilds by local transmission shops, only to have it fail soon after.
300k miles- You may need to be ready for some maintenance. Check fuel lines in engine valley, see if the fuel pump looks fairly new(also in engine valley), feel turbo end play, check front end parts for wear along with u-joints and other wear items.
Garret turbo- He is likely just refering to the stock turbo. The stock turbo on these trucks are Garret turbos. I see people saying this often like they think the turbo is aftermarket, when in fact it is stock.
Edge Programmer- these are known to render the stock PCM useless by losing the stock tune, so when you go to revert the truck to the stock tune, it cannot do this.. Leaving the PCM with no tune and the truck will not run. This wouldn't be a big deal to me. Just revert the truck to stock after your test drive. If it works, awesome. If you plan to buy the truck, look for a chip to replace the programmer with.
Truck #1- chipped, 230k miles on possibly factory automatic trans, supposedly had shift kit added at unknown mileage. The chip and auto always throws a flag for me b/c I don't trust these stock auto transmissions with chips. It won't be dead nuts reliable like your wanting. If it does indeed have the stock auto with 230k miles on it. You'll be replacing the transmission at some point. No big deal. Happens to all of them. Replace it with something better.
I would look into both trucks, but I would look at truck #1 more due to the lower mileage.
If your looking for dead nuts reliability, I would look for a 5 speed unless you want to spend some money making the auto reliable.
For truck #2, the K&N filter throws a flag for me. Check the turbo compressor wheel by removing the intake. If it looks sandblasted or has chipped fins, walk away.
Tow Matrix transmission throws a flag also. It's tough to get a good rebuilt E4OD that will last. We usually stick to RacerX, BTS, or John Wood for reliable built auto transmissions that will take tons of abuse. Research this tranmission and determine whether it's a good transmission or not. I've never heard of it before. Many people get "performance" rebuilds by local transmission shops, only to have it fail soon after.
300k miles- You may need to be ready for some maintenance. Check fuel lines in engine valley, see if the fuel pump looks fairly new(also in engine valley), feel turbo end play, check front end parts for wear along with u-joints and other wear items.
Garret turbo- He is likely just refering to the stock turbo. The stock turbo on these trucks are Garret turbos. I see people saying this often like they think the turbo is aftermarket, when in fact it is stock.
Edge Programmer- these are known to render the stock PCM useless by losing the stock tune, so when you go to revert the truck to the stock tune, it cannot do this.. Leaving the PCM with no tune and the truck will not run. This wouldn't be a big deal to me. Just revert the truck to stock after your test drive. If it works, awesome. If you plan to buy the truck, look for a chip to replace the programmer with.
Truck #1- chipped, 230k miles on possibly factory automatic trans, supposedly had shift kit added at unknown mileage. The chip and auto always throws a flag for me b/c I don't trust these stock auto transmissions with chips. It won't be dead nuts reliable like your wanting. If it does indeed have the stock auto with 230k miles on it. You'll be replacing the transmission at some point. No big deal. Happens to all of them. Replace it with something better.
I would look into both trucks, but I would look at truck #1 more due to the lower mileage.
Had that one in for almost four years and about 45,000 miles. I'm happy with it. Exceptions to every rule though I guess.
I had my "performance rebuild" done at a local shop, Summit Transmission, in Fort Wayne. They said it should handle anything I could throw at it, and so far it has. I have abused the pi$$ out of it. I don;t have much for horsepower but with the stuff I pull on the farm and the playing I do, its been tested.
Had that one in for almost four years and about 45,000 miles. I'm happy with it. Exceptions to every rule though I guess.
Had that one in for almost four years and about 45,000 miles. I'm happy with it. Exceptions to every rule though I guess.
So, never know. =)
You could have a BTS trans in your truck with their name on it.
Hey BajaF250. I have a 6.0 trans cooler (big upgrade) and a punisher valve body setup for added power that I'm selling if your interested if you get an auto. I bought them all and hadnt even got the cooler in and blew the auto 4 hrs after the punisher was in towing my jeep for the first time with the truck lol. 5 spds going in!
Good luck with your search! I'd also keep looking at F350s so you have a solid front axle instead of the stupid TTB that will eat your tires once it gets warn out.
Good luck with your search! I'd also keep looking at F350s so you have a solid front axle instead of the stupid TTB that will eat your tires once it gets warn out.
Although I would love to make myself believe that, I don't think I gave them enough money for that, lol.
K&N air filters are not optimal for these trucks. They don't filter thoroughly enough, apparently. Also, Edge programmers are known to ruin the PCMs on these trucks. I suggest you go with a manual transmission, and you can hunt down my various threads that will help you understand why I make that recommendation if you want to.
The following link is truck-buying advice for Super Duty 7.3L trucks, but most of it applies to the old body style Powerstrokes. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...questions.html
That's all I've got on this one.
Edit: Four posts over nearly five years of membership? Holy cow!
The following link is truck-buying advice for Super Duty 7.3L trucks, but most of it applies to the old body style Powerstrokes. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...questions.html
That's all I've got on this one.
Edit: Four posts over nearly five years of membership? Holy cow!
Got one...
Hey Guys- Flew to Oregon on Tuesday and looked at a 1996 and several 1997 F350's that I have been watching online. Made an offer on the '96 and then drove it 17 hours to Southern CA.
It's all stock with 160,000 miles. Ran like a champ.
I'll post a photo and also some questions based on what I have and things that I pondered on that long drive. Thanks for all the great advise.
It's all stock with 160,000 miles. Ran like a champ.
I'll post a photo and also some questions based on what I have and things that I pondered on that long drive. Thanks for all the great advise.









