the block heater of my 05 sd diesel just starting leaking coolant, (about 1/4 cup day) so I need to replace it. I can buy one for $65, now how to screw it in? do I need to pull the starter, anyone have tips/ instructions/ tools I can follow?

 

Moved to the 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel forum.

 

of all the trucks I have seen and worked on I have yet to see a block heater leak coolant.
Look on top of the engine there is a small orange or blue hose about 2" long between the oil and egr coolers. odds are your issue is there.

 

sure now that I found it, it is almost impossible to check, is there a way to check how, where it is leaking without taking the entire intake off? If so, the how do you fix/ change the hose. It looks like you would have to put an entire egr cooler on, or , just go with an aftermarket delete kit?

 

ok, did some more checking, crammed my head and light into passenger wheel well, and could see that the block is wet between the back of the block and the bell housing, there is also some wetness on a small tabe to the front of the block heater, so obviously something else. I then climbed in , got my hand under the small orange tube, felt all along and it comes out totally dry... now what?

 

if you have any sign of water on the top of the engine then its that orange tube. they are bery prone to leaking.
to replace it is about a 30 min job, no need to take anything off but the hot side cac tube.

 

is there a replacement tube available from ford or just use heater hose? as for clamping? hose clamps or the type they use on gm's? should I use the blue tubing if I can get it? is it silicone hose?
Thanks for all your help so far, I can's quite see under the turbo end, can I really get under there?

 

new part is about $40 and no clamps needed. rotate it 90* and slide it back. new one goes on in reverse

 

Parts for that EGR cooler hose:

Coolant hose for egr cooler - 4C4Z-8592-AA
Inner O-ring for outlet port - 3C3Z-9N693-FA
Outer O-ring for outlet port - 3C3Z-9N693-EA

Drain engine coolant (2 gallons). For additional information, refer to Section 303-03. - DO THIS FIRST - IMPORTANT
Loosen the clamps and remove the charge air cooler (CAC) intake pipe (HotSide pipe) - DO THIS SECOND - IMPORTANT
Remove the 2 T30 bolts and the EGR cooler supply port housing cover.
Remove the EGR cooler supply port housing cover
Twist and pull the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose to remove it from the EGR cooler tube (you can do this with it attached to the EGR cooler housing cover or you can stab a screwdriver through the old hose to help you twist it).
Rotate the oil-cooler-to-EGR-cooler hose 90 degrees (1/4-turn) and remove it from the EGR cooler supply port housing.
Installation:
Clean and inspect the EGR cooler supply port housing O-ring seals. Install new O-ring seals if necessary.
Lubricate the inside of the new oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose with clean engine coolant and slide it onto the EGR cooler tube far enough so it will not interfere with the installation of the EGR cooler supply port.
Make sure the dual index marks (flat edge) on the hose are facing up.
Lubricate the EGR cooler housing cover supply port O-ring seals with clean engine coolant and position the EGR cooler supply port housing cover on the engine. After positioning the EGR cooler supply port housing cover, install the 2 bolts.
NOTE: Use a commercially available Torx bit, such as Matco® BTX30B, or equivalent, and a torque adapter to tighten the EGR cooler supply port housing cover bolts. Calculate the correct torque wrench setting for the following torque. Refer to the Torque Wrench Adapter Formulas in the Appendix. Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Slide the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose onto the EGR cooler housing cover (supply port) and rotate it 90 degrees (1/4-turn) until it locks in place.
Install the CAC intake pipe and tighten the clamps. Tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft).
Fill and bleed the engine cooling system. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03.

I have done this, thanks to cheezit's direction.

That bolt on the right is the tough one to get at:

 

Once I got the old one out, I practiced with the new hose on the oil cooler housing part to feel what it was doing.

 

Once you pull that hose out from under the turbo and see how the new part is built, you will have a better understanding of what clamps under the turbo, it's an O-ring. Lube it with fresh coolant so it will slide back on.

 

Here is a picture of a tool to get that one bolt out.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10319845

 

Thats a real helpful tool!

 

I don't remember whose photo that is,(Yours?) I just wish I had seen it before I did mine.

 

Not my picture.

I had helped a friend do his, and he pulled that tool out, made life so much easier.

I would rep ya, but I gotta spread some around!