Voltage Regulator?
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: New Braunfels, TX
Voltage Regulator?
It all started when my vacuum pump pulley seized up last week, I was about 45 miles from home, so I cut the belt off (which had already broken and got wraped up in the pulleys) and was able to drive home at about 40 miles an hour. This kept the engine cool because the fan was able to tun freely.
I replaced the vacuum pump and a new belt, two days later. The batteries were dead (from driving home without a charge), I was able to put a charger it and it started just fine in about an hour. I drove it that day (yesterday) for about 8 hours, stoping and starting numerous times. All was well.
This morning the batteries were dead and when I turned the key on, the dash lights, gauges and WTS lights would come on for about 1.5 seconds and then cut off for about 1.5 seconds, then repeat. I charged the batteries and it is still doing the same.
The batteries most likely need to be replaced, but that should not cause the on and off and on again power.
Could this be the voltage regulator (on the passanger fender) or the regulator that goes to the glow plugs and fuel injectors. Seems like perhaps the main regulator because it is causing all powe to go off an on.
Any and all suggestions would be appreciated!
-Rick
I replaced the vacuum pump and a new belt, two days later. The batteries were dead (from driving home without a charge), I was able to put a charger it and it started just fine in about an hour. I drove it that day (yesterday) for about 8 hours, stoping and starting numerous times. All was well.
This morning the batteries were dead and when I turned the key on, the dash lights, gauges and WTS lights would come on for about 1.5 seconds and then cut off for about 1.5 seconds, then repeat. I charged the batteries and it is still doing the same.
The batteries most likely need to be replaced, but that should not cause the on and off and on again power.
Could this be the voltage regulator (on the passanger fender) or the regulator that goes to the glow plugs and fuel injectors. Seems like perhaps the main regulator because it is causing all powe to go off an on.
Any and all suggestions would be appreciated!
-Rick
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: New Braunfels, TX
Thanks Action - the batteries are probable 3-4 years old. I will replace them. Alternator showed charging all day yesterday. The problem right now is that the batteries are showing a full charge (after charging all morning), and when i turn the key on, the dash lights, gauges and WTS lights will come on for about 1.5 seconds and then cut off for about 1.5 seconds, then repeat. Power will not stay on, seems like a regulator or something cutting in and out.
All suggestions welcome.
All suggestions welcome.
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 10,764
Likes: 39
Thanks Action - the batteries are probable 3-4 years old. I will replace them. Alternator showed charging all day yesterday. The problem right now is that the batteries are showing a full charge (after charging all morning), and when i turn the key on, the dash lights, gauges and WTS lights will come on for about 1.5 seconds and then cut off for about 1.5 seconds, then repeat. Power will not stay on, seems like a regulator or something cutting in and out.
All suggestions welcome.
All suggestions welcome.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: New Braunfels, TX
OK. I will trace all leads in the morning. Battery connections, voltage regulator connections and glow plug regulator connections are all tight.
Have you ever heard of a voltage regulator cycling on and off like i described?
Have you ever heard of a voltage regulator cycling on and off like i described?
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: New Braunfels, TX
Ok, that is good to know. Any ideas as to what would cause the power to cycle as described?
"when i turn the key on, the dash lights, gauges and WTS lights will come on for about 1.5 seconds and then cut off for about 1.5 seconds, then repeat. Power will not stay on, seems like a regulator or something cutting in and out."
-Rick
"when i turn the key on, the dash lights, gauges and WTS lights will come on for about 1.5 seconds and then cut off for about 1.5 seconds, then repeat. Power will not stay on, seems like a regulator or something cutting in and out."
-Rick
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: New Braunfels, TX
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
The only solenoid in play is the starter solenoid (and the one on the fender is the RELAY, it's NOT a solenoid). If this is happening with the key in RUN but not START, it could be the glow plug relay, or just weak batteries. It could be the GPR is pulling so much current that it's pulling down the batteries, voltage is dropping below the point that the relay (or, for that matter, the relays in the underhood fuse box) can no longer energize, then with everything off, the batteries recover, re-energize the relay, and the cycle starts all over again.
How powerful a charger do you have? Is it one that has a "fast charge / jump-start" setting, like 50A or more? If so, try hooking it up in that mode, and turn the key to RUN, and see if it cycles as you describe. If so, then the batteries and/or battery terminal connections are suspect.
Do you have a battery load tester? If so, you should test each one individually. Even if you're simply testing battery voltage, make sure you do it with the two batteries disconnected from one another.
How powerful a charger do you have? Is it one that has a "fast charge / jump-start" setting, like 50A or more? If so, try hooking it up in that mode, and turn the key to RUN, and see if it cycles as you describe. If so, then the batteries and/or battery terminal connections are suspect.
Do you have a battery load tester? If so, you should test each one individually. Even if you're simply testing battery voltage, make sure you do it with the two batteries disconnected from one another.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: New Braunfels, TX
Makes sense. I just pulled both batteries out and am hooking them up to the charger, initally one appears to be full charged and one appears to be about 90%.
I do not have a load tester, so will have to take these to Autozone or somewhere to load test.
I do have a 50A / start selection on my charger. After topping off each battery, I will try what you suggested.
Thanks for your suggestions. I will post back with progress later today.
I do not have a load tester, so will have to take these to Autozone or somewhere to load test.
I do have a 50A / start selection on my charger. After topping off each battery, I will try what you suggested.
Thanks for your suggestions. I will post back with progress later today.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
usmcron
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
Dec 7, 2004 11:20 PM
