In their catalog NPD lists an HD radiator that is supposed to be completely bolt in. Has anyone tried these radiators? Im still using my trucks original radiator and its finally getting to be time to replace it.

 

Dave there is a shop near me that will rebuild your radiator, for $70.. I am sure you can find someone near you that will do similar... if not, I just installed a Procool that I got through Jeg's for $159 It is an oversized Aluminum, and it cools much better! I also switched to twin electric fans, that I got on Ebay for $50... I had to make up my own brackets, but that took about an hour to do.. and I know you can do welding and fab work.

 

I talked to one shop and he said he just wanted to just replace the radiator but if i can get it rebuilt that would be good. it needs new mounting brackets and a new core assuming the tanks are still good to. Was the Procool radiator a bolt on or did you have to modify it at all?

 

You can get a mounting kit through Jeg's , but the sales rep told me what it was, and said I could probably fab up my own which I did for about $10 in Steel and a few nuts and bolts... you can see my new radiator, I have a photo series on my profile page. I had to get different hoses which was about 20 minutes at the local auto parts and the hoses cost about $25, and I installed a new overflow which is a universal from pepboys that was $10... I still have my old Radiator, but it needs a small leak fixed... I had it rebuilt, and then dropped a tool on it which caused it to leak.. but it can be repaired... if you are interested!

 

The set up you have looks pretty good. Do you know what the part number was on that radiator? i dont see a radiator with the dimensions you have listed on the JEGS site.

 

JEGS Performance Products 52018 JEGS Universal Aluminum Radiators

It is a cross flow 28X19 dual core aluminum... works much better than the original 4 core brass and copper. This weekend I will try to take some close up photos of the mounting that I did. I basically using angle iron made a cage for the bottom of the radiator, padded it with 1/8 in rubber, and then two brackets on the side near the top using Ell Brackets, also covered in rubber. The Filler cap is on the driver side now instead of the passenger side so you will have to move your overflow, that is why i switched to a new overflow.. The hoses come out real close to stock, the upper being a bit different. If you look in the photos you can see the hose numbers I ended up with. The engine ran 30- 40 degrees cooler, so I had to put in a higher temp thermostat, and I switched to a high volume pump, and High VolumeThermostat. all said and done with radiator, water pump, Thermostat, hoses and brackets.. the total was just a few bucks over $300 which is less than most aftermarket radiators..

 

Thanks for the link i was looking at the Be Cool ones not the JEGS brand ones. Im going to look at upgrading the water pump but thats gonna come down to my budget. Im reusing the efan that i have right now but im going to make a shroud to mount it too. im also looking to replace my trans cooler while i have the radiator off.

 

Jeg's has a bolt on shroud for that radiator it is for an 18 in fan... and I will attach a link to Summit for a High Volume Water Pump I had a bunch of radiator guys tell me this was the pump to get, It is supposed to be the most reliable on the Market, and the price won't kill you! It actually has a better rating than a Milodon. make sure if you get a High volume pump that you do not use a stock Thermostat.. The higher flow rate and pressure causes the standard Thermostats to stick shut.... the high volume style Equalize the pressure before they open and rather than being accurate within 7-10 degrees the High VOL T-stat is accurate to within 2-3 degrees. The Jeg's radiators are made by Pro cool.

EMP/Stewart Components 16153 - EMP Stewart Stage 1 Water Pumps - Overview - SummitRacing.com

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...52064/10002/-1
fans shroud link

 

thanks for the info on the pump! im still gonna fab my shroud. i havent been working because of school so im pressed for money and i could make a shroud for half that price if not less.

You said you had to get a higher temp thermostat, how much higher did you have to go? Right now ive got a 180 deg thermostat in the 302, next one up is a 195.

 

Might want to re-read that, davewave649. I think he said to get a higher volume thermostat, not a higher temp thermostat.

 

in post #6 he says that because of the larger radiator the truck ran 30-40 degrees cooler so he put in a higher temp thermostat.

 

Both are corrrect! because of the radiator, I had to go from a 160 to 185.... I also had to use a high Volume T-stat because of the new high Volume water pump!

 

Without the T-stat the engine would only get up to 135 degrees, with the 160 it ran 140-160, With the 185 high volume after about 10 minutes of running the engine is at 185 and never moves one way or the other.. towing the toy hauler, or my work trailer.. makes no difference, Pulling the toy hauler, loaded up Cajon Pass ran 65 mph at 185... Modern tech making and old school workhorse run like a thoroughbred!

 

Well with the 180 tstat ive got now the truck sits at 180 unless im in traffic so im gonna switch to the 180 hi-flow if i find its running to cold ill switch it out. I looked up the water pump brand you sent the link to. On the summit website they dont have the Stage one pump for a 77 302 but they have one for a 79 302. Im wondering if theres any difference between the two years...

 

according to my research.. 75-78 are the same but 79 is different!