Overcooling!?!?
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Overcooling!?!?
First a little background... I bought ol' Betsy for $400. She was not well looked after and have fixed a few problems with the help of this forum. I was driving down the highway and noticed the ol' girl was overheating. Pull over to the side wait 20 minutes and take off the rad cap. Some of the crudiest, dirty, water/coolant came out. I found a pond and filled er up. I then changed the thermostat and now it never gets off the C mark on the temp gague and there is no hot air coming out of the vents. Gotta get this fixed before winter. It will be 40 below in no time!!! Is it possible that the new thermostat is stuck open? Pretty sure I put it in right. The upper radiator hose does not get that hot and the two hoses going to the heater core by the left fender do not get all that warm either. I'm going to flush the rad and then try a new thermostat again??? I think. Any ideas???
Justin
Justin
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,016
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From: SoCal
It sounds like the thermostat is stuck open. When you pull it out, or get a new one, you can test it in your kitchen by heating it in a pot of water and using a cooking thermometer. It should open at close to its specified temperature, but stay closed the rest of the time.
I once took out a thermostat that did not quite close properly. The little valve was skewed just a little, and the engine would get cold when going downhill.
I once took out a thermostat that did not quite close properly. The little valve was skewed just a little, and the engine would get cold when going downhill.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
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From: Washington state
upgrade and get a better quality thermostat. there is some real imported junke on the market now, especially the store named off brand stuff.
about the best that's commonly avail. across N. America now is the Stant stainless steel premium line, at any top line auto parts store.
or a Motorcraft, but they're spendy.
gotta get all that muddy water and mud out of there.
mud and muddy water contain corrosives that will eat up any new thermostat plus the water pump seals, head gasket and plug the heater core.
pull both heater hoses off the engine and reverse flow blow with hose set to less than 20 psi out the nozzle so the core isn't blown. will have to use vacuum to open the heater vacuum shutoff valve on later models
hose blow out the block with the thermostat out and the lower hose off the radiator. flush the radiator.
good luck with the new thermostat.
about the best that's commonly avail. across N. America now is the Stant stainless steel premium line, at any top line auto parts store.
or a Motorcraft, but they're spendy.
gotta get all that muddy water and mud out of there.
mud and muddy water contain corrosives that will eat up any new thermostat plus the water pump seals, head gasket and plug the heater core.
pull both heater hoses off the engine and reverse flow blow with hose set to less than 20 psi out the nozzle so the core isn't blown. will have to use vacuum to open the heater vacuum shutoff valve on later models
hose blow out the block with the thermostat out and the lower hose off the radiator. flush the radiator.
good luck with the new thermostat.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,016
Likes: 208
From: SoCal
If you can, open up the screw-in plugs on each side of the block to let them drain completely. I don't know which engine you have, but look on the sides of the V near the oil pan for a threaded plug that has either a square or hex hole.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,529
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From: Kansas
A couple of years ago, I had to replace the thermostat 3 times before I got one to work on my Aerostar. There is some junk out there.
RockAuto still sells Motorcraft thermostats. They seem pricey until you have to do the job more than once.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2009
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Exactly, while not as severe as yours, I went through several brands of aftermarket thermostats on my Mom's old Aerostar, and every single one of them overcooled. Definitely flush the system, make sure you only refill with some type of de ionized water, you can use either distilled water or RO water, then mix it with concentrated coolant. Or buy the premixed stuff, which is what I usually do for convenience.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 208
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From: Brooklyn, NY
While we are on the subject, my 1997 AWD takes forever to get hot enough for heat on really cold days. The last two winters I slid cardboard in front of the radiator for the winter. I had to remove it for highway trips, but was okay otherwise. But I would really like to do it right, so I probably have to check the thermostat.
This has been since I got it, so it could even be missing for all I know. Can I get some quick tips on how to get to the thermostat, and how hard it will be? If as I suspect it is inside the water pump pipe, it looks too hard for me, since it is behind the radiator, fan, and hoses. Maybe even the throttle too...
Plus on top of that everything on the car is too rusted to mess with - except what I changed since I got it.
This has been since I got it, so it could even be missing for all I know. Can I get some quick tips on how to get to the thermostat, and how hard it will be? If as I suspect it is inside the water pump pipe, it looks too hard for me, since it is behind the radiator, fan, and hoses. Maybe even the throttle too...
Plus on top of that everything on the car is too rusted to mess with - except what I changed since I got it.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,016
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From: SoCal
On my 4 liter engine, the thermostat is in the front opening of the intake manifold. The housing has a 90 degree upward bend so the radiator hose comes straight down onto it. There are objects in front that get in the way, like the fan belt, tension pulley, heater and AC hoses, and maybe even the alternator. The first time I replaced my thermostat, I lost a 10mm socket in that mess as I was completing the installation. If I were to do it again, I would remove as much of the front dress as I can to get clear access.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
another failure that can produce very slow warm ups in winter is a worn out frozen fan thermostatic viscosity clutch.
fan should spin with slight resistance when cold, not frozen stiff to water pump shaft.
4L Aerostar with rear heater can be hard to get all the air pockets out of the engine and heater cores/lines after a coolant drain down.
park with nose at least 2 ft higher than the rear. run with rad. cap off and fill as air bubbles out with heaters on max and engine at op. temp.
fan should spin with slight resistance when cold, not frozen stiff to water pump shaft.
4L Aerostar with rear heater can be hard to get all the air pockets out of the engine and heater cores/lines after a coolant drain down.
park with nose at least 2 ft higher than the rear. run with rad. cap off and fill as air bubbles out with heaters on max and engine at op. temp.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 208
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From: Brooklyn, NY
I figured that was where the thermostat is, and precisely why I didn't try changing it. Cardboard in the radiator is much easier than taking the whole front end off!
Checking the fan clutch is also a good idea... and easy enough.
This problem has been consistent for two years, and I have checked the coolant levels numerous times. The temperature gauge never gets hot enough, so it is not just a heater core air bubble.
Checking the fan clutch is also a good idea... and easy enough.
This problem has been consistent for two years, and I have checked the coolant levels numerous times. The temperature gauge never gets hot enough, so it is not just a heater core air bubble.
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I don't have a tonne of mechanical experience and didn't have too much trouble with it. It is mostly just a matter of getting everything out of your way and accessing the two bolts. I have a question for 96_4wdr and xltwd90 though.
My 1997 aero 3.0L is leaking coolant and it is not on the ground or in the oil. The exhaust kinda smells sweet maybe (haven't smelled a whole bunch of exhaust so don't know for sure) The temp gauge never gets off C and no hot air is coming out. I have a bad feeling this is a head gasket issue. Every time I top up the Rad I am seeing air bubbles in the coolant. At first I thought I hadn't got the air pockets out of the rad when I changed the thermostat but now am not so sure. My brain is starting to hurt trying to figure this bad boy out. Thanks in advance.
My 1997 aero 3.0L is leaking coolant and it is not on the ground or in the oil. The exhaust kinda smells sweet maybe (haven't smelled a whole bunch of exhaust so don't know for sure) The temp gauge never gets off C and no hot air is coming out. I have a bad feeling this is a head gasket issue. Every time I top up the Rad I am seeing air bubbles in the coolant. At first I thought I hadn't got the air pockets out of the rad when I changed the thermostat but now am not so sure. My brain is starting to hurt trying to figure this bad boy out. Thanks in advance.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,016
Likes: 208
From: SoCal
Do the bubbles small like gas? That's the biggest giveaway from a leaking head gasket. But that would usually force the coolant out of the radiator cap into the overflow tank, and your engine would overheat.
You can also do the test I do with a bicycle pump:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10967554
You can also do the test I do with a bicycle pump:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10967554
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
put some of this in the coolant and check the tailpipe a week later with a black light.
similar products are avail. at most auto parts stores
Amazon.com: Cooling System UV Dye, 1 oz. (375CS): Automotive
remember to have the engine at op. temp when you run xlt's cooling system pressurized leakdown test. many problem headgaskets will only leak when hot.
can also be the intake manifold bolts loose, allows leaking coolant to be sucked in the intake manifold gasket >gap> intake valve runners into the combustion chamber. try retorquing if you can't find any other solutions. to specs only. Don't overtighten, these are small easily snapped off bolts. broken off intake manifold bolt is hell to remove.
similar products are avail. at most auto parts stores
Amazon.com: Cooling System UV Dye, 1 oz. (375CS): Automotive
remember to have the engine at op. temp when you run xlt's cooling system pressurized leakdown test. many problem headgaskets will only leak when hot.
can also be the intake manifold bolts loose, allows leaking coolant to be sucked in the intake manifold gasket >gap> intake valve runners into the combustion chamber. try retorquing if you can't find any other solutions. to specs only. Don't overtighten, these are small easily snapped off bolts. broken off intake manifold bolt is hell to remove.
I don't have a tonne of mechanical experience and didn't have too much trouble with it. It is mostly just a matter of getting everything out of your way and accessing the two bolts. I have a question for 96_4wdr and xltwd90 though.
My 1997 aero 3.0L is leaking coolant and it is not on the ground or in the oil. The exhaust kinda smells sweet maybe (haven't smelled a whole bunch of exhaust so don't know for sure) The temp gauge never gets off C and no hot air is coming out. I have a bad feeling this is a head gasket issue. Every time I top up the Rad I am seeing air bubbles in the coolant. At first I thought I hadn't got the air pockets out of the rad when I changed the thermostat but now am not so sure. My brain is starting to hurt trying to figure this bad boy out. Thanks in advance.
My 1997 aero 3.0L is leaking coolant and it is not on the ground or in the oil. The exhaust kinda smells sweet maybe (haven't smelled a whole bunch of exhaust so don't know for sure) The temp gauge never gets off C and no hot air is coming out. I have a bad feeling this is a head gasket issue. Every time I top up the Rad I am seeing air bubbles in the coolant. At first I thought I hadn't got the air pockets out of the rad when I changed the thermostat but now am not so sure. My brain is starting to hurt trying to figure this bad boy out. Thanks in advance.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
another test to help confirm if there is a leaking head gasket or cracked head problem is an oil analysis test. tell them you are concerned about a potential coolant leak into a cylinder. they test for antifreeze components which are unique to antifreeze and not motor oil showing up in the motor oil
Blackstone's is a good place for us general automotive types with a basic test.
about $25
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php
don't need the optional TBN
Blackstone's is a good place for us general automotive types with a basic test.
about $25
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php
don't need the optional TBN
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