Is it possible to do your own trany flush? I have a new punisher valve body coming next week and would like to put it in (never done this before.. is it hard?) before I tow next weekend. While I'm in there I'm going to change the filter and fluid but would like to flush it if its possible..

Thoughts?

 

BTS trans has step by step instructions on their website for changing VB. I've never done it, but it doesn't look to bad. Don't know about your flush idea

 

I have this in my book

Transmission Maintenance - Do It Yourself (DIY)

Changing automatic transmission fluid (ATF) in a SuperDuty truck with 7.3L engine and 4R100 automatic transmission. (Will also work on earlier trucks with E40D transmission.)


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I've done this alone. It's easier with a second person, and sometimes helps prevent spills.

1. Things you need to get started:

a. The transmission system holds almost 18 quarts of ATF, and you must waste a couple of quarts to be sure you get it all purged and replaced, so buy 20 quarts of MERCON V ATF. You may use either conventional or synthetic ATF, as long as it is rated MERCON or MERCON V. Your Owner’s Guide says to not use MERCON V, but Ford changed that in 2006.

b. A 10 foot length of clear tubing and one hose clamp, sized to fit over your cooler line. There have been different size cooler lines over the years, so check before buying! The metal part of your cooler return line is probably 3/8th inch outside diameter (OD) with a ferule on the end of it, so if you can find 7/16th inch inside diameter (ID) tubing, that will probably work great. If you use ½” ID, it will be a loose fit over the ferule and will need a good hose clamp tightened good to prevent it from leaking. So just in case, place a big drain pan under the connection. And some folks have reported they were strong enough to force a 3/8th inch ID tube over the ferule. If you try that, dipping the end of the plastic tubing in very hot water for a few seconds will make the job easier.

c. If you don't already have a special funnel that fits into the transmission dipstick tube, then you will need one of those, too.

d. If your transmission has ever been worked on by a Ford dealer, you probably have a Magnefine in-line filter in the "rubber" part of the cooler return line, near the front axle. If so, you should replace that filter every time you change the ATF. You can get one from your Ford dealer, or for about $15 from Magnefine Filters--Online Order Form. Your cooler lines are probably 3/8th inch, so you want the 3/8th size Magnefine inline filter.

2. Note: In cool or cold weather, be sure the transmission is up to operating temp before you begin. It’s not supposed to happen, but several members have reported ATF coming out the cooler bypass line instead of the cooler return line if they tried these procedures with a cold transmission. Also, in cool or cold weather, keep the new ATF in the house so it’s around room temperature of about 70º F. when you pour it in the transmission.

3. If your pan has a drain plug, drain the pan, then replace and tighten the drain plug. If it doesn't have a drain plug, skip to step #5.

4. Pour 7 quarts of new ATF into the filler [dipstick] tube.

5. Disconnect the transmission-fluid return line at the transmission - from where the ATF returns to the transmission from the cooler(s). This is the line towards the rear of the transmission. This is where the old ATF from the transmission, torque converter and coolers will be pumped out. Clamp the clear tubing over the line that you removed from the transmission.


The following is a drawing of the 4R100 transmission, seen from the passenger’s side of the vehicle. The arrow at #2 shows the banjo connection where the cooler return line and the cooler bypass line connect to the rear of the transmission. The arrow at #4 shows where the “hot” line and the cooler bypass line comes out of the banjo connection on the front of the transmission. (The cooler bypass valve is near the banjo connection at the front of the transmission, in that bypass line that runs between arrows #4 and #2.)



6. This is where the second person comes in handy. One person starts the engine, while the other holds the line over the drain bucket. A clothes pin can replace the person holding the line in the bucket.

a. Run the engine at idle RPM until you have around 1.5 gallons in the drain bucket, then you should see a big air bubble in the clear tubing. Ignore tiny bubbles. As soon as you see a big air bubble, shut off the engine. Then double-check the amount of used ATF in the drain bucket. You should have around 1.5 gallons. If you have much less than 1.5 gallons, then you probably killed the engine too soon, so crank the engine and pump out some more old ATF.

b. If you drained the pan in step 3 and poured in 7 quarts of new ATF in step 4, then while the engine is idling in step 6a above, move the shifter through each position from P to 1, pausing about 5 seconds at each position. This will change some fluid that would otherwise be trapped in the valve body, accumulators, and clutches.

c. If you poured in 7 quarts of new ATF in an earlier step, then refill through the dipstick tube with 6 quarts of new ATF. (That's 13 quarts total so far). If you have not poured in any new ATF yet, then pour in 7 quarts of new ATF, for a total of 7 quarts so far.


7. Repeat steps 6a and 6c until you have poured in a total of 19 quarts of new ATF (7 + 6 + 6).


8. Remove the clear line and reconnect the cooler line to the transmission with 20 lb/ft torque.

9. Drive the truck several miles to get the transmission up to operating temperature. Then check the fluid level and use the last quart of ATF to top off.

Note: You should always check the ATF level when the transmission is up to operating temp – not when it’s cold. The cold marks on the dipstick are not very reliable. When first filling the transmission, use the cold zone on the dipstick to get close to the right amount of ATF in the transmission. But for topping off, do it with a hot transmission using the hot area of the dipstick. When you get done, you want the transmission full, but not overfull.

10. Properly dispose of the used transmission fluid.

11. Congratulate yourself! And your engine starter/killer person.

12. Then get back on TheDieselStop and tell us your "lessons learned" for those that follow you down the DIY road.

Now that we understand the basic procedure, let's muddy the water with the options:

Optional: Change the internal transmission filter. Revise paragraph 3 above to read:

3. Drain the pan, remove the pan, replace the transmission filter, clean the inside of the pan and clean the reuseable gasket, install the pan, then replace and tighten the drain plug. Torque pan bolts to 11 lb/ft.

If your pan doesn't have a drain plug, you remove and drain the pan at the same time. This might be a messy job, but most tranny pans on other vehicles don't have a drain plug, so you won't be doing something the pros don't do routinely.

Don't buy a new pan gasket. The original is reusable.

The pans for the 4x2 and 4x4 drivetrains are slightly different, so the internal transmission filter is also slightly different. So be sure you buy the correct transmission filter for your drivetrain.

I replace the transmission filter every other fluid change. Note that Ford does not recommend ever changing the filter. I've opened filters with over 300,000 miles that were not even close to being clogged.

It just pulls out, there are no bolts that hold it. It is held in place by the pan. Make sure that the O-ring is removed, too. Sometimes it does not come out with the filter.

Optional: Drain the torque converter. Add the following to paragraph 3 above:

If your truck was built before August, 2001, then you may have a drain plug in the torque converter. If you do, then you can also drain the torque converter as part of step 3 above. Some people think it is necessary, but I don't. Running the engine in the next steps will pump the fluid out of the torque converter. If your transmission was built after August 2001, you don't have a drain plug in the torque converter.

If your torque converter does include a drain plug, then to drain the torque converter remove the shield (but NOT the upper right bolt - this one only needs to be loosened) and turn the flywheel until you see the drain plug. If you drain the torque converter, be sure to replace the drain plug, and torque it to 18 to 20 lb/ft before you continue.

If you drain the torque converter, then the old ATF won't come out of the end of the cooler return line until the torque converter is filled with ATF. So instead of waiting until you see big air bubbles in the drain line during your first iteration of going through in step 6a, run the engine for about 30 seconds while changing gears for step 6b, then cut off the engine.

Optional: Blow out the coolers. Add the following to paragraph 5 above.

It's not necessary, but some folks want to get every possible drop of the old ATF out of the system before they pump new ATF through the system. If you drained the torque converter, then you might also want to blow the ATF out of the coolers and cooler lines. If you have an air compressor, you can reduce the line pressure to about 15 PSI, remove the cooler "hot" line from the front of the transmission, and blow air into that line. That will force the ATF in the coolers and lines out the cooler return line at the back of the transmission. DO NOT use air pressure of more than about 15 PSI! Then be sure to reconnect that line before you continue with paragraph 6.

 

Sorry the diagram wasnt included.
but you get the idea.

 

Ah yes the Mark K cooler line flush. Works like a charm, I did it on my truck and mother's mountaineer...both worked very well. I recommend it to anyone.

I will admit I am too much of whimp to see air in ATF so I just drained the pan, got 6-6.5 quarts out, refilled the pan, pumped out 4 gallons, refilled 4, pumped out 4....repeat...

It is a two person job but takes 15 minutes, but tell the wife it will take about an hour and a half and a have a few brews.

 

Thanks Roentgeep you are the man! Now I gotta read it! haha

 

Thats life (read it). LOL

You are welcome. good luck.

 

VB isn't bad to change. My RacerX one came with instructions too which made it real easy. I would guess you will get instructions with it when it shows. If not, come back on and I'll dig mine out(they're at my shop somewhere) and help you out if I can.

 

I also installed the RacerX VB and was simple, here are the instructions, good luck:

TRANSMISSION VB RACER X INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS

It is just bolted in. This should help you :

Drain the fluid from the transmission pan. Unbolt & remove the transmission pan. Remove the pan filter & gasket from the front of the transmission. Make sure the gasket comes out with the filter--if not remove it. The valve body your replacing is located behind the filter inlet at the very front of the transmission. You will recognize it by comparing it to the new valve body.
Remove the bolts and 2 nuts from the old valve body. Gently rock the body side to side and remove the old body. Once the valve body is removed, check for any stuck and torn away gasket material on the old valve body. It's very rare for this gasket to stick & tear. The new valve body won't require a new gasket unless gasket material is severely damaged. Call or e-mail for help if needed. Next locate the small filter in the separator plate. The filter is on the passengers side of the transmission. Clean the filter if needed. The filter is removed by twisting with a flat blade screw driver.

Re-install the separator plate filter if removed. Install the new valve body leaving nuts and bolts hand tight. Tighten fasteners beginning at the center of the body alternating from 1 side of the transmission to the other. Torque the bolts & nuts to 80 -100 inch lbs.

Install the transmission pan filter and gasket. Install the transmission pan and new or reusable pan gasket. Tighten pan bolts to 10 to 12 foot lbs. Refill the transmission with AFT before starting the engine. Follow oem specifications in your owners manual for checking transmission fluid level changing and refilling with fluid. Refill with the correct transmission fluid.
Add 4-6 quarts of fluid to the pan initially. More if the converter has been drained. Start the engine and run for 15-30 seconds, and turn the engine off. Check fluid and fill to the correct level on the dipstick. Re-start & re-check fluid level after shifting transmission into all ranges. Repeat this as needed until fluid is at the correct level on the dipstick. Recheck fluid level when transmission is at normal operating temperature. Follow the proper oem service procedures for the transmission at all times.

Legal stuff we have to say--Disclaimer : These are free installation tips only. Their use is not required. No liability is accepted or implied for use or misuse of these free tips.

If you should need more help, just e-mail. Thanks,
Bill

 

If you lived closer.... I'd bring you beer haha

 

this is how ive done it in the past i take pan off and filter get a hose with the filter neck you can cut it off your old filter where the rubber filter gasket is that goes into the port you stick the filter to lol and get a bucket and put about 5 qts in there and stick the hose in there then you want to get a big drain pan to get all the fluid start the truck and let it suck the fluid and come out the bottom, easy flush

 

Send it by UPS, but dont send a "Corona", we have them here

 

Thanks Jose, now I don't have to find mine.

 

Longtrail baby! Or Shipyard pumpkinhead! New England Beer!

 

Okey dokey amigos. Hic, hic, hic.