Trans service
Thread Starter
|
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 15,505
Likes: 18
From: Livoina,La
Trans service
I have two questions
Frist if my TQ doesn't have a drain plug how do i go about getting the fluid out of the TQ
Next i know the pump will fill the TQ up when i start the truck but how much fluid should i put back in before i start it up
Frist if my TQ doesn't have a drain plug how do i go about getting the fluid out of the TQ
Next i know the pump will fill the TQ up when i start the truck but how much fluid should i put back in before i start it up
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,566
Likes: 1
From: Monroe/Ellensburg, WA
This is the write up of Mark Kovalsky. Thanks Mark.
"I've done this alone. It's easier with a second person, and sometimes helps prevent spills.
1. Things you need to get started:
a. The transmission system holds almost 18 quarts of ATF, and you must waste a couple of quarts to be sure you get it all purged and replaced, so buy 20 quarts of MERCON or MERCON V ATF. You may use either conventional or synthetic, as long as it meets the above requirements. Don't use MERCON SP, it is not good for these transmissions. MERCON has been discontinued by Ford and is getting a bit harder to find. MERCON V has been changed to be compatible with these transmissions.
b. A 10 foot length of clear tubing and one hose clamp, sized to fit over your cooler hose. There have been different size cooler lines over the years, so check before buying!
c. If you don't already have a special funnel that fits into the transmission dipstick tube, then you will need one of those, too.
2. WARM UP THE TRANSMISSION!
3. Disconnect the transmission-fluid return line at the transmission - from where the ATF returns to the transmission from the cooler. This is the line towards the rear of the transmission. Clamp the clear tubing over the line that you removed from the transmission. This is where the old ATF from the torque convertor and coolers will come out.
4. This is where the second person comes in handy. One person starts the engine, while the other holds the line over the drain bucket. A clothes pin can replace the person holding the line in the bucket.
a. Run the engine until you see some air in the clear tubing. As soon as you see air shut off the engine.
b. While the engine is running in step 4a above, move the shifter through each position from P to 1, pausing about 5 seconds at each position. This will change some fluid that would otherwise be trapped in the valve body, accumulators, and clutches.
c. Refill through the dipstick tube with 6 quarts of new ATF.
5. Repeat steps 4a and 4c until you have added 19 quarts. When you add the 19th quart, stop. Don't run the engine again.
6. Remove the clear line and reconnect the cooler line to the transmission.
7. Check the fluid level and use the last quart of ATF to top off.
8. Properly dispose of the used transmission fluid.
9. Congratulate yourself! And your engine starter/killer person.
Now that we understand the basic procedure, let's muddy the water with the options:
Optional: Change the tranny filter.
2. After stopping the engine and before adding fluid, remove the pan, replace the tranny filter, and install the pan. Don't buy a new pan gasket. The original is reusable.
I replace the transmission filter every other fluid change. Note that Ford does not recommend ever changing the filter. I've opened filters with over 300,000 miles that were not even close to being clogged.
It just pulls out, there are no bolts that hold it. It is held in place by the pan. Make sure that the O-ring is removed, too. Sometimes it does not come out with the filter.
Optional: Drain the torque convertor. Add the following to paragraph 2 above:
If your truck was built before August, 2001, then you may have a drain plug in the torque convertor. If you do, then you can also drain the torque convertor as part of step 2 above. Some people think it is necessary, but I don't. Running the engine in the next steps will pump the fluid out of the torque converter. If your transmission was built after August 2001, you don't have a drain plug in the torque converter.
To drain the torque converter remove the shield (but NOT the upper right bolt - this one only needs to be loosened) and turn the flywheel until you see the drain plug. If you drain the torque convertor, be sure to replace the drain plug before you continue.
If you drain the torque convertor, then the old ATF won't come out of the end of the cooler line until the torque convertor is filled with ATF. So instead of waiting until you see air bubbles in the drain line in step 5a, run the engine for about 30 seconds while changing gears for step 4b, then cut off the engine.
Optional: Blow out the coolers. Add the following to step 3 above.
It's not necessary, but some folks want to get every possible drop of the old ATF out of the system before they add new ATF. If you drained the torque convertor, then you might also want to blow the ATF out of the coolers and cooler lines. If you have an air compressor, you can reduce the pressure to about 15 PSI, remove the cooler "hot" line from the front of the tranny, and blow air into that line. That will force the ATF in the coolers and lines out the cooler return line at the back of the tranny. DO NOT use air pressure of more than about 15 PSI! Then be sure to reconnect that line before you continue with paragraph 4."
"I've done this alone. It's easier with a second person, and sometimes helps prevent spills.
1. Things you need to get started:
a. The transmission system holds almost 18 quarts of ATF, and you must waste a couple of quarts to be sure you get it all purged and replaced, so buy 20 quarts of MERCON or MERCON V ATF. You may use either conventional or synthetic, as long as it meets the above requirements. Don't use MERCON SP, it is not good for these transmissions. MERCON has been discontinued by Ford and is getting a bit harder to find. MERCON V has been changed to be compatible with these transmissions.
b. A 10 foot length of clear tubing and one hose clamp, sized to fit over your cooler hose. There have been different size cooler lines over the years, so check before buying!
c. If you don't already have a special funnel that fits into the transmission dipstick tube, then you will need one of those, too.
2. WARM UP THE TRANSMISSION!
3. Disconnect the transmission-fluid return line at the transmission - from where the ATF returns to the transmission from the cooler. This is the line towards the rear of the transmission. Clamp the clear tubing over the line that you removed from the transmission. This is where the old ATF from the torque convertor and coolers will come out.
4. This is where the second person comes in handy. One person starts the engine, while the other holds the line over the drain bucket. A clothes pin can replace the person holding the line in the bucket.
a. Run the engine until you see some air in the clear tubing. As soon as you see air shut off the engine.
b. While the engine is running in step 4a above, move the shifter through each position from P to 1, pausing about 5 seconds at each position. This will change some fluid that would otherwise be trapped in the valve body, accumulators, and clutches.
c. Refill through the dipstick tube with 6 quarts of new ATF.
5. Repeat steps 4a and 4c until you have added 19 quarts. When you add the 19th quart, stop. Don't run the engine again.
6. Remove the clear line and reconnect the cooler line to the transmission.
7. Check the fluid level and use the last quart of ATF to top off.
8. Properly dispose of the used transmission fluid.
9. Congratulate yourself! And your engine starter/killer person.
Now that we understand the basic procedure, let's muddy the water with the options:
Optional: Change the tranny filter.
2. After stopping the engine and before adding fluid, remove the pan, replace the tranny filter, and install the pan. Don't buy a new pan gasket. The original is reusable.
I replace the transmission filter every other fluid change. Note that Ford does not recommend ever changing the filter. I've opened filters with over 300,000 miles that were not even close to being clogged.
It just pulls out, there are no bolts that hold it. It is held in place by the pan. Make sure that the O-ring is removed, too. Sometimes it does not come out with the filter.
Optional: Drain the torque convertor. Add the following to paragraph 2 above:
If your truck was built before August, 2001, then you may have a drain plug in the torque convertor. If you do, then you can also drain the torque convertor as part of step 2 above. Some people think it is necessary, but I don't. Running the engine in the next steps will pump the fluid out of the torque converter. If your transmission was built after August 2001, you don't have a drain plug in the torque converter.
To drain the torque converter remove the shield (but NOT the upper right bolt - this one only needs to be loosened) and turn the flywheel until you see the drain plug. If you drain the torque convertor, be sure to replace the drain plug before you continue.
If you drain the torque convertor, then the old ATF won't come out of the end of the cooler line until the torque convertor is filled with ATF. So instead of waiting until you see air bubbles in the drain line in step 5a, run the engine for about 30 seconds while changing gears for step 4b, then cut off the engine.
Optional: Blow out the coolers. Add the following to step 3 above.
It's not necessary, but some folks want to get every possible drop of the old ATF out of the system before they add new ATF. If you drained the torque convertor, then you might also want to blow the ATF out of the coolers and cooler lines. If you have an air compressor, you can reduce the pressure to about 15 PSI, remove the cooler "hot" line from the front of the tranny, and blow air into that line. That will force the ATF in the coolers and lines out the cooler return line at the back of the tranny. DO NOT use air pressure of more than about 15 PSI! Then be sure to reconnect that line before you continue with paragraph 4."
