This is on my 94 dually. I never use the front tank but the fuel gauge works in both. Today I switched it to the front the gauge went to where I think it should have been and the ac quit. I checked the fuses and it was blown. The ac is on the same circuit as the selector valve. I changed it and fixed the ac but now the gauge stays on the front tank instead of the rear where I want it. I'm guessing that the selector valve got stuck on the front tank and that is why the fuse blew. Does anybody here have experience on these dual tank systems? Anybody know anything about these valves on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-GMC-Chevy-Dodge-6-Port-Fuel-Tank-Selector-Valve-/110754203438?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &hash=item19c977072e

 

I have changed several for different reasons and I always got mine from Ford.

 

That was my first thought but I just can't justify spending 220 on a valve when I need a clutch and it's almost at 280k miles.

 

if you don't need 2 tanks,then just bypass the thing with fuel line.simple.
but if you want to buy a universal and wire it in.pretty much all you need to do so,should be here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...el-gauges.html

screw ford and their price gouging whenever possible.if everyone did,they'd be forced to stop it.

when i first got my truck,i took it around the corner to fill her up,the tank valve quit and i had to tow it back the few feet lol.
anyway,i blew in the ports to find the ones that where open.i used these ports for the front tank.
i replaced it latter and even a new rear tank but i dunno why now,i never use it lol.still need to have my sending unit repaired back there.anyway,if you have no need for duals.then keep your $ and just bypass it.
heck even lend a fellow idi owner a hand, by listing your sending unit in your unused tank here in the marketplace,and even come out $ ahead.
oh yeah,then just unhook the power going to the dash switch,so no one can bump that again and pop the fuse.
of course for starters just test this switch too,and look for any bad wires at the switch or valve.could just be something free to repair.
rule #1.always test first,second and third,repair/replace parts (or bypass if desired in this case) last.this method has saved me a lot of bread over the years. plus this is how you learn too.you can't learn anything by throwing parts at a problem and hoping to get lucky.

 

220...that is a little high...Some of these dealers are crazy...

 

That's using a buddies price because he is the parts manager.

 

you would not want to buy one from ford canada, $365.00.

Frank

 

I want to fix it and utilize the front tank. The valve from ebay is what I will use. I won't be doing it at the moment though. It sucks because for the 3 years that I've had the truck, I never got around to fixing the pickup tubes on the tanks until last friday. Guess which tank I chose to fix first. The rear tank, now I just filled it up and I can't use it now. Maybe I can bypass the front tank when I suck it down to a quarter tank and splice the wires for the rear tank into the gauge temporarily until I get the valve replaced. I well then reply back and let everybody know how the ebay part install went.

 

I'd take the bed off to fix all of this. It's not that hard to do, I 've done it alone on several long bed Fords in the grass in the front yard.
All that you have to unhook are the 6 mounting bolts, tail light wiring (remove the tail lights and pull out the bulb sockets) and the filler neck tubes.
(Take the tailgate off) work the bed off side-to-side and stand it in the grass on it's tail.

 

It's just as easy to drop the tank imo. Just 2 bins a coupe of hoses and it's on the ground. I got stacks and that complicates the bed r&r. I wanted to do that since both of the tanks needed the fuel pickup tube.

 

x2...had to do work on my tanks several times. I swear I will never drop a tank on an idi again. my powerstroke is a different story since its just one tank....

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