Help White Smoke
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From: Jacksonville MD
Help White Smoke
I have an 041/2 f-350 well I've been fighting a no start for a week now, replaced the o rings and brass fittings and checked all the fuses. The truck will just sit there and crank crank crank and white raw fuel pours out of the exhaust. Miraculously I was able to get it started last night and started and idled like total SH&%.
Any Ideas?
Any Ideas?
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Jacksonville MD
I'm not pulling any codes once its warmed up it runs great. Coolant level is good and no I haven't pulled the valve to see what it looks like. I have had it unplugged since I got it and never looked back at it.
I have read in a forum on here a guy had a bad FICM and was blown white smoke and no start could that be it?
I have read in a forum on here a guy had a bad FICM and was blown white smoke and no start could that be it?
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Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Saratoga Springs,UT
An injector came to mind because he said raw fuel was pouring out the exhaust
but if it just white smoke you might be on to something Tyler
A bad FICM can still test 48 volts and still be bad needs a injector Buzz test to confirm I think
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From: Claremore, OK
KOER = Key On, Engine Run
Maybe I'm thinking of something else...but I believe the buzz test is when the spool valves on top of the injectors "buzz" (they're being cycled causing 'em to warm the oil in them up) when the glow plug light is on. It was part of the updates on a reflash around '07/'08...so it's possible you don't have it if your truck hasn't visited a dealership in a long time.
Did the truck all the sudden up & do this or has it had an intermittent miss/stumble? Since you say once it warms up, it runs great...sounds like you may have a stiction issue (spelling?)...which sounds like the spool valves aren't spooling. Since it's an '04...it should have the cord there for a block heater, plug it in for at least 3 hours and see if that helps with starting it.
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From: Jacksonville MD
for the past 10 months I have been having problems with misfiring and sputtering at high RPM's. I was 90% sure it was the injectors but who knows what it could be on these motors. Then for the past month starting it up it would run reel rough and at low RPM's would be missing until it warmed up. So I was told the o rings and brass fittings probably went bad on the injectors so I bought 8 packs and did all the injectors.
Then when I got it started miraculously once all the air was out of the lines no misfires at all but can't get it started again
Then when I got it started miraculously once all the air was out of the lines no misfires at all but can't get it started again
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Claremore, OK
for the past 10 months I have been having problems with misfiring and sputtering at high RPM's. I was 90% sure it was the injectors but who knows what it could be on these motors. Then for the past month starting it up it would run reel rough and at low RPM's would be missing until it warmed up. So I was told the o rings and brass fittings probably went bad on the injectors so I bought 8 packs and did all the injectors.
Then when I got it started miraculously once all the air was out of the lines no misfires at all but can't get it started again
Then when I got it started miraculously once all the air was out of the lines no misfires at all but can't get it started again
I'm not trying to scare you or overload with the questions...just trying to help troubleshoot a complex fuel system. That's makes a whale of allot of power for it's size
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From: Jacksonville MD
The washers looked done black and burnt away. Looked nothing like the new ones did and the o rings didn't seem like any were bad just miscolored. As for the tip of the injectors I took a wire brush cleaned them up real good wiped them off and no cracks. They all look still good. As for the pressure I do not know how can I hook up a gauge to find out? As for running time I let it sit for an hour and drove it for another hour. Once I started driving it, she ran like a champ
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
You have faulty injector(s), no if's, and's or but's about it, PLAIN AND SIMPLE. If you are burning raw fuel out the tailpipe, that is a sure sign of it. The only way to pinpoint it, is to let the engine sit overnight, cold soak, connect IDS with the Power Balance screen up and ready to pinpoint the low/high cylinders. To continue driving it in this state is to put your engine at serious risk of melting/damaging piston(s).
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From: Claremore, OK
The washers looked done black and burnt away. Looked nothing like the new ones did and the o rings didn't seem like any were bad just miscolored. As for the tip of the injectors I took a wire brush cleaned them up real good wiped them off and no cracks. They all look still good. As for the pressure I do not know how can I hook up a gauge to find out? As for running time I let it sit for an hour and drove it for another hour. Once I started driving it, she ran like a champ
You shouldn't have anything under 45psi when the truck is running...ever! Above 50-55 is great...most guys that have their at 65-70 say they light off like a champ everytime. The stumbling at high rpms, I'm going to assume (I know dangerous) was while driving down the road. Kind of hard to check that if you don't have an in cab gauge. May need to get a long hose so you can strap the gauge to the windshield wiper (if your using a non-electric sending unit) and go for a drive once you get it running.
PS And m-chan chimed while I was typing my novel.
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