Timing chain slop
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Timing chain slop
I'm freshening up a 351w I pulled out of an e250 parts trucks. The van had 140,000 miles on it. I drove it home 120 miles with no problems. I have the motor on a stand changing the oil pan gasket and oil pump.
This is my first motor swap and I don't have much experience with timing chains. Theres seems to be quite a bit of play in the timing chain. From the bottom of the motor I can move the timing chain back and forth about an inch on the one side.
From a search on here to check it I need to pull the timing chain cover check clearance on the loose side turn the crankshaft counter clockwise and check clearance on the other side.
I would rather not do that if I don't have to. With 140,000 miles I shouldn't need a timing chain. Everything on the bottom of the motor looks good. What do you guys think does that sound like too much play?
This is my first motor swap and I don't have much experience with timing chains. Theres seems to be quite a bit of play in the timing chain. From the bottom of the motor I can move the timing chain back and forth about an inch on the one side.
From a search on here to check it I need to pull the timing chain cover check clearance on the loose side turn the crankshaft counter clockwise and check clearance on the other side.
I would rather not do that if I don't have to. With 140,000 miles I shouldn't need a timing chain. Everything on the bottom of the motor looks good. What do you guys think does that sound like too much play?
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Joined: Apr 2004
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Replace it. Sure, it should last more than 140k, but it didn't. That is enough slop to make your motor phase in and out of time, and run like poop, and eventually jump a tooth, causing a "no work'em" condition.
Since the motor is out, it's easy to do. Throw a new water pump on there too.
Since the motor is out, it's easy to do. Throw a new water pump on there too.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Sounds like the consensus is to change it. So I'll be doing that tomorrow. Heres a video I made of it anyway just so I don't feel like I made the video for no reason.
MVI_0246_mout | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Is there a particular brand you guys recommend? Cloyes is one I can get at oreillys. Advanced has an edelbrock and auto zone has there usual no name junk. I guess I should get the set or is just the chain good?
I'm trying to get this done as quick as possible. My money maker is down for the count but I might as well do it right while its down.
MVI_0246_mout | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Is there a particular brand you guys recommend? Cloyes is one I can get at oreillys. Advanced has an edelbrock and auto zone has there usual no name junk. I guess I should get the set or is just the chain good?
I'm trying to get this done as quick as possible. My money maker is down for the count but I might as well do it right while its down.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,013
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From: SoCal
The chain will wear with the teeth, so if you replace just the chain, it may not mesh properly with the old gears. So get the whole timing set with "true-roller" design like two-rows of motorcycle chains. They will last longer than the stock link-belt design.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Got ya this is what I was planning on getting.
| O'Reilly Auto Parts
Is this the true roller your talking about?
| O'Reilly Auto Parts
| O'Reilly Auto Parts
Is this the true roller your talking about?
| O'Reilly Auto Parts
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Joined: Apr 2004
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The second one, the "true roller" will probably last longer. Both are double roller design, which is what you have already.
But either way, you need a new one. And yes, both gears and the chain. No new chain on old sprockets.
But either way, you need a new one. And yes, both gears and the chain. No new chain on old sprockets.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: SoCal
Wow, quite a price difference between those two. The pricier one has an adjustable crank gear that allows you to install the cam advanced, straight up, or retarded, for fine tuning a high performance setup. I think the cheaper one will work just fine, and outlast the original. Of course, if you're doing a high perf build, and need to optimize cam timing for a particular operating range, go for the fancier one.
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I just did mine in the truck, and it was a nightmare. All of the water pump bolts broke, the timing cover came out broken in 3 pieces, and I had to replace the oil pan gasket. While I was in there, I replaced the oil pump and pickup tube as well.
That said, since the motor is on a stand, it'll probable be easier. Easiest way to do it is to find #1 TDC on the compression stroke (finger over the #1 spark plug hole until you feel air coming out). Put on your harmonic balancer and the timing pointer, and spin it exactly to 0*. This will be TDC. Then just line up the dots and slip it on. Pretty straight forward, actually.
As long as your bolts don't break, it shouldn't take too long to do.
That said, since the motor is on a stand, it'll probable be easier. Easiest way to do it is to find #1 TDC on the compression stroke (finger over the #1 spark plug hole until you feel air coming out). Put on your harmonic balancer and the timing pointer, and spin it exactly to 0*. This will be TDC. Then just line up the dots and slip it on. Pretty straight forward, actually.
As long as your bolts don't break, it shouldn't take too long to do.
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