good to see you back on.man,iv missed your posts!
i figured it probably knew about the slip via the tach and vss sensor too.
through my experience here,she took a good 500-600 rpm extra before she would enter safety mode.sometimes it took just once,but mostly 2-3 times before entering limp.
i generally hang around 45 mph/1400 rpm. if i was careful on the hills,so as not to let her go over 2k rpm,i could remain in normal mode,with a load on or just too steep of a hill of course,not possible at any reasonable speed,that's when she said too much,time to toss 62 and enter safety mode.
im surprised to hear she only looks for this slip while in 4th.had i known,i might of tried locking out od to see if i could stay in normal mode and avoid the harsh shifts (but otherwise not much gained anyway i suppose while finishing up my job.)
we should probably be careful what we suggest here to temp trick the safety mode,cus who knows who will try to avoid it at the wrong type of failure and toast their trans lol.i suppose in the event of 62 though,and as long as you do whatever is required to keep the temps at bay.......unless of course the converter really is coming apart on ya lol.

iv read about your plug repair in the past too.dunno which site it was.
hmmm.too bad you don't recall what fries when the wires cross at the solenoid plug.cus whatever happens in that event, likely is causing this guy's troubles:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...n-problem.html

 

Oh, don't get the wrong idea, I'm only dropping by to share my E4OD-related scares, and thus hopefully help someone not toast their trans or sell their truck out of desperation or something - I still have an axe to grind with certain individuals, it's God's job to forgive and not mine (hence the new avatar, lol)

Anyways, I am not 100% certain that the input/output speed test is done only in OD - Mark said so and IIRC there were other resources that confirmed it, I have no reason to not believe them and also no motivation to try to prove either way - for me the important part was what the test does, not so much in what gear it does it. Also keep in mind my IDI truck is older than yours, so I do not get the flashing LED as an indicator for limp-home mode, and it's also possible that your PCM is more advanced as far as drivability programming goes - generally the newer the PCM the more "sensitive" it is to runnig parameters and at the same time the harder it is to fool if you wanna take some certain things out of its control without royally pissing it off, thus it's probably more likely to enter limp-home mode for something older PCMs like mine would just ignore...

Also, what temp-tricking of what safety mode are you talking about? Towcat mentioned a while back he's aware of some folks bypassing my safety relay in their trucks, well that's up to them, there's a good reason why I went through the trouble of coming up with that setup in the first place but it's everyone's own choice whether to run it or not. As for Integra downright abusing it in her truck, well she's a dummy so what else is to be expected of her, but she's also a dummy who's always properly-equipped and what her E4OD could handle may very well kill a factory converter in no time, therefore I highly recommend against that particular use of the manual lockup as well.

Oh yah, something caught my attention - you mentioned 45 mph at 1400 rpms, what gears and tire size is that achieved with? Cause at 45 my POS is right at 1600 with the converter locked, this with 4.10 gears and 235/85-16 tires that have a rolling radius (measured from center of axle shaft do road surface with truck loaded as it normally is) of 15-1/4"... But that was with the old tach sender with damaged wires, haven't had the need to drive the thing anywhere since I swapped the sensor out so no idea if that was a 100% accurate reading or not, but I do know the speed was spot-on cause I specifically swapped speedometer gears to that end and then confirmed the results with two different GPS units at the same time.

About the wires crossing - I have a very short attention span so the only way I actually remember something important is if I write it down and then have my better half remember where I wrote it down, lol. But I'd imagine the particular gremlins would depend on the individual connector, I do know mine didn't look anywhere near as scary as that one person whose thread you linked to, so in his situation who knows what is crossing with what and when. I do think that a start in 4th gear would have nothing to do with the solenoid pack tho, as that's all handled by the MLPS which is on the opposite side of the trans, and on top of that I'm pretty its neutral-safety circuitry have absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with the PCM and its related wiring... Guss I can put that to the test tomorrow, pull the EEC relay and hit the start button and see if she turns over, I bet she will tho.

 

oh i just meant,people shouldn't follow my example by continue to run the truck with the issue i was having,and,or lock out OD to try and keep her from going into limp mode.pretty much just in case they're converter is actually failing.with the miles on this truck (though still kinda risky i suppose given the high failure rate of stock converters lol) i pretty much figured the converter wasn't actually coming undone and going to spread metal through my trans.

no,no.i understand and agree with your lockup mode diagrams.so much so,iv been sharing it on this site too.

i decided to go with shorter than the factory optional 215's on DRW's this era.for both reduced height (for ease of loading bed) and a bit more gear reduction (since the truck had 3.55's to start with.)
im running LT 225/75/R16 (29.3X8.9) with 3.55 gearing for a 3.84 effective ratio.
speedo/odo calibrated for 'em @ 1065 conversion constant.
thinking about this decision more again today,since i drive mainly in 45mph zones,it's probably a good thing i went with the 225's vrs the 215's or i might have had a hard timing staying in OD lol.

lmao @ the avatar.
well whatever happened there,i sure hope the issue gets resolved and you come back to hang out more often.im sure many here hope for the same.

 

Well I've never had one go poof on me, but from what I've heard if the converter is on its way out there will be other signs of it as well, odd sounds at idle from the bellhousing area comes to mind right now. So code 62 alone with no other indications of mechanical failures shouldn't be a super-major concern - think of it this way, it's an indication of something going on that shouldn't be going on, but if you can prevent it from setting by keeping her out of OD then you're also likely preventing whatever is causing it to set... Well, possibly, like I said before it depends on the PCM in question, mine don't care if the converter slips or not, yours obviously does. I got some aftermarket converter by the way, no idea what it is cause it ain't me who put it in, PO said it was a strong "towing" converter, but what he meant by that is anyone's guess and at the time I had other more pressing concerns.

Yah, that was brought to my attention - that's one of the reasons why I wanted to share with you my findings about the resistors and what not, so you get the complete picture I'm looking at on my end of things. In other words, resistor value don't seem to matter one bit to my PCM, but then again I've heard from other people who have done these mods (usually the off/lock cause it's the easiest) to gas-powered trucks even and the 22k-ohm resistor seems to work just fine for them, no codes thrown or limp-home mode engagement... Idk man, best advice I can give is try the 22k first cause it seems to work for most, and if that's a no-go then try the 20-ohm or whatever matches that particular TCC solenoid's resistance - but there are no guarantees either way.

Is that 29" tire diameter actual numbers you measured tho, or whatever the manufacturer of your particular tires advertises? Cause mine are supposed to be just about 32" OD, but they are actually slightly smaller at 31.5", and when you put the weight of the truck on them the real distance between the axle shaft center line and the road is 15.25" instead of the 15.75" that's their radius on the "unloaded" top side of the tire - meaning my tires compress by 1/2" and so the OD to be used for calculation purposes should be 30.5" even tho the tires are physically larger than that. In any case at 45 mph with 4.10 gears and "loaded" 30.5" tires with the 0.71 transmission ratio I should be turning at about 1450 rpms, but my tachometer shows right at 1600 instead, and I'm pretty sure my converter don't slip cause my trans fluid is pretty clean and don't smell burnt and if I tell you what my pan temps are you'll throw the book at me, lol. Your truck OTOH using 3.55 gears and 28" loaded tires (cause I bet yours compress good 1/2" too, thus dropping your effective OD to 28" or so) and same speed and trans gear ration should be turning at 1350 rpms, meaning with just a 50-rpm difference your tachometer is a whole lot more accurate than mine. Like I said I just stuck a new sender in so who knows if that will make a difference, if it don't oh well, so long as she runs strong and gets 15 mpg on local low-speed runs and 17 on the interstate with 10k trailer in tow, I call it good!

Idk much of anything about them conversion constants, I mean I know what they are but I got no clue as to what they are from the factory and what they should be tweaked to - remember I'm cable-driven, you only got three (or was it five?) tries with your PSOM constant but I can swap gears to my heart's content - my factory one was orange 20-tooth gear and with the current tires my gauge was quite a bit slow, I stuck a tan 19-tooth gear instead to speed things up a bit and now I'm +/- 1 mph of what the GPS reads, don't think I can get it any better than that. But to be honest I don't thing the 215/85s would have made for a noticeable difference from the 225/75s you got now, you're only looking at an inch larger OD unloaded but once you load them good who knows, may very well end up being about the same...

 

im not sure,i looked up the revs per mile on the tire,and used the closest setting in the PSOM,which put be right on the $ according to my tom tom gps.it varies a little bit iv noticed the faster you go over 45-50,it starts to go off a mph or two around 55-65 on the interstate (where i rarely travel anyway.)
you have a total of 6 adjustments (iv got 5 left,but i'll never change it.im happy with this tire size,and extra grunt of gear reduction,for my heavy hauling,stop and go,average traveling on rural back roads.)
yeah,it probably is closer to 1350 rpm @ 45 i guess.hard to see by these tachs.i just see a clear pretty healthy size gap between the needle and the 1500 rpm mark,so i use "1400" kinda loosely lol.

 

F250, I thought you were too young to be stuck in limp mode! HEHE. I had to make a limp joke, sorry.

I'm not sure how accurate the tachs are in these trucks. My timing meter always read a few hundred RPMs lower than the tach. At 60MPH mine reads about 1950 and I have 3.55s and stock tire size.

 

Eaton,not that old........yet lol.

more experience with the worlds most needlessly rebuilt auto trans.

firstly,for searchers; i went on to install a banks turbo.due to the massively felt performance increase from the turbo,now nearing 100k miles on the original '93 oem trans and known "come-apart" oem converters known to take out the entire trans like this:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...some-pics.html
i did upgrade to the racer x converter i mentioned earlier in this thread (also they hooked me up with a custom extra low stall.really took away any mushy take offs when i run/tow heavy)
when i pulled the oem,it was still working 100% flawlessly but with the banks drastically increasing the nuts of the engine, it really made me feel as if i was playing Russian roulette with my oem converter.up to speed now...............


code 62 revisited again.the next day however i no longer had converter slip but instead OD slip! (same timing another member experienced the same thing.i was just like a day or two behind him.)
tip; if your unsure which is slipping, either lock up or overdrive,hit the hazards when going over 40 mph.that will unlock the converter so you can clearly feel the difference.
if you feel no difference,then the converter isn't locking.

i babied it home when i had OD but converter slip (62) but i had to be careful,cus i have a nice new converter and i could tell she wasn't being very kind to it with the slipping.so be careful.if you don't know how to limp by feel to reduce damage,you should really just have her towed home.

so,moving forward to the next day i did nothing,but another couple test runs.she was locking and holding just fine now and no longer tossing 62 (which happens pretty quick if she slips while in od) i drove around and couldn't simulate the slip.
however,something much more scarey was happening like stated; an actual gear slipping! final/4th/od! no code tossed- no limp mode/flashing od light to help trace the issue! oh joy.

with symptoms changing like this overnight,or whenever you have issues that are sporadic like this,this should lead your thinking and first focus to damaged/corrosive wires/connections.so this is just what i did.
so i unhooked the MLPS and went for a drive...you have to manually shift and or shift with the fuel pedal to get her onto 3rd.without the ecm helping,she wont like to on her own.then she shifted into 3rd,lock and then i had a firm positive non slip OD again too!

so i went out and got some more electrical cleaner (took the car lol.) with the mlps plug still pulled,i sprayed the clip again then i inserted the tube into the spray nozzle and soaked the mlps from inside the connector letting it flush out nasty road salt/grime from it's guts.completely rinsing the sensor out with e-cleaner.plugged it back in,went for a drive and instant success with everything back to normal 100% with normal electrically shifting aid.

latter i got reading a MLPS can't cause this,but apparently the ground running through the MLPS leading to the TPS/tot circuit is what causes the issue if this ground is broken here at the mlps (via the road grime.)
i updated to the newer style mlps and connector too.supposed to help against this.well that didn't work.-i never had any issues with oem '93 mlps and connector lol!
i plan to build a little slush shield around the mlps to help keep most of the road slush from just constantly soaking it at least.

current odo:
98k and change.

 

will an intermittent slip put the trans in limp mode and flash the od light? or will it just set a code and you won't really know it unless you scan for codes?


my trans is kinda weird. usually i stop for fuel in the morning before i head to work/school. the station is probly half mile from my house. the trans does just fine on the way there. i stop and fill up. i then take off again and it shifts fine until i get to the O/D shift. it will kinda gradually "slide" into O/D rather than shifting in one, nice swift movement. it can take a couple miles of driving before it fully engages O/D. i get no flashing o/d light and once it finally shifts it will be fine. it doesn't matter if the trans, engine, out outside air temp is warm or cold. it also doesn't do this if the truck sits for more than about 10-15 minutes. it is just the quick shut off and then restart a few min later.

 

oh you can't mistake it when she throws codes.the od light will flash,the trans line pressure is increased and the shifts are latter and firmer than normal.that's when you baby or tow it home and get the scanner on it asap and don't drive her again until the issue is resolved.

first thing in the morning,before trans temp is up to normal operating temp she will feel "off" don't worry about that.once the tot says she's worm enough she should then feel fully normal.
if the trans acts strange once fully up to normal operating temps only sometimes and not others,then make sure all connectors are spotlessly clean.
if you don't have a shift kit,all the gears kinda sliiiiiiiiide in,rather than snap in, like you take your foot off the clutch quick with a manual trans.od is especially bad,but it should only be a slushy feeling half second or so.nothing drawn out for miles of course.

 

well no go.that was short lived.so i took the MLPS right off and inspected it good.looked pretty nasty.corrosive pins and suspected the insides might not look much better now so i just replaced it.still no OD.but least a nice fresh,clean and well packed greased one is on there now.perfectly adjusted with column.

i do still know it's electrical though which is good.cus without the MLPS plugged in like i stated,she has a perfect OD gear.
(though not exactly easy to help her shift just hydraulically.it is very possible.)
so iv got to focus my attention at the solenoid pack.S2 in particular according to the ASTG pdf.

so i broke the solenoid clip this time removing it.of goodie lol.
so i ordered a e40d harness repair for this.and what i'll do is use my old one (it's fine still,just wont remained clipped over bumps etc) as a home made test harness! i'll wire up some longer wire pigtails on it and label them all nicely,so i then i can easily measure resistance of my solenoids and tot.

 

I have the dreded E40d shudder,,won't do it with the hazards on,as this prevents lockup..could this be a weak ground? ifso, where to look?....thanks,been lurkin here...

 

uh oh.
so i figured i wasn't going to wait for the repair plug since i installed a drain plug.i just drained the fluid into a clean pan and figured id just pull the solenoid pack to test it since it's right there and this way too,i could inspect down in the plug to make sure the pins where all cleaned up bright and clean.well i didn't get that far.pulling the pan revealed lots of metal on the magnet and it's not clutch ware material.it's clearly something metallic that is chewed up into tiny segments,most of which is mushy it's so fine.appears black until you wipe it around in your hand,then you can clearly see bright metal pieces.extreme metal grit.

i had the dang OD out and in my hands once cus i was updating the boost valve in the pump and the coast clutch fell out on me haha.had to pull the next assembly which was the OD in order to jig jaw both assemblies back into the case together.-tricky!!!

well this sucks.so i dunno what to do.the rest of the trans is still acting mint! i hate to scrap the whole works when it just needs the od assembly rebuilt.but my god it's a pita to put in.

now what? any suggestions?

edit;
oh.yeah i see if your actually rebuilding the two assemblies you build them up as you go in the case,not as complete assemblies (like i cheated to do last time cus i just wanted them in lol - that's danged near impossible by the way.don't even bother to attempt it.oh the bad memories this brings back.) so i guess it's probably not so bad.
man don't i wish i knew the OD assembly was waring out back when i installed the converter.could had done this right then and not sworn so much trying to fit it all back in whole.dang it.

 

My suggestion. Rebuild it.

Because the tranny is shifting good. Go through it anyways. There could be other issues that will show up later.

With the tranny in a fixture, your coast clutch will be easy to instal.

 

yeah but lets say for a moment im a cheap ******* lol and just want to see if i can get another year or two (maybe even another 100k who knows?) by just rebuilding the OD assembly.installing my aux filter back on there asap,and then draining my pan once in a while to clean up the magnet to keep it as clean as i can.-looks like everything grabbed onto the mag and is all at the bottom nicely now anyway.
what would you do for parts just to fix (preferably upgrade) OD again?

is there a main item here that is the source of most of the metal? common failure point? cus it doesn't look like clutch material at all.

 

But remember being a cheap ****** now will cost big $$$ later.

If the problem is OD just replace the frictions, steels and seals. But that's only "if" it is your problem. You need to find out where the metal is coming from.

It could be out of the converter. Could be a fried bearing. Could be a gear set. Could be anything. Only way to find out is dig into it.