ignition coil help
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ignition coil help
i have a 1980 ford f150 with a 351 in it, ive been using the accel super stock 8140 coil, and i keep burning through them rather quickly, i have a 1.5 ohm ballast resistor before the coil and im pretty sure i dont have a short in the wires before it, am i using the wrong resistor for this coil? i cant figure it out and its frustrating, any help is appreciated.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,573
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From: Washington
i have a 1980 ford f150 with a 351 in it, ive been using the accel super stock 8140 coil, and i keep burning through them rather quickly, i have a 1.5 ohm ballast resistor before the coil and im pretty sure i dont have a short in the wires before it, am i using the wrong resistor for this coil? i cant figure it out and its frustrating, any help is appreciated.
How is the coil mounted? The oil filled style coil uses the oil to cool it self, is it warm to the touch while running.
Have you checked the coil positive voltage at idle... to see if it is half of battery voltage... (14/7 VDC) to be sure the ballast resistor is doing its job.
If you still have a stock plug gap you might as well just use a stock coil as there isnt any gain until you open up the plug gap.
Jim
ACCEL 8140 - ACCEL SuperStock Ignition Coils - Overview - SummitRacing.com
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I have the coil mounted vertically, originally i had the first one horizontally but i was told they should only be vertical, it sits right next to my distributor. The coil does get real hot when the truck is actually running, but my last coil only lasted literally 5 minutes, i didnt check the voltage while it was running though. Would an improper gap in the plugs cause any damage to the coil at all?
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
**** Huge Prestolite rant snipped****
The coil I pointed out is meant to work with the stock (DSII) ignition system.
It just has a pretty steep turn ratio because the stock system drops the input voltage so much in 'Run'
It should be fine, but I already have issues with Prestolite that shouldn't color this discussion.
So you're saying you have nothing but the Unilite, a filter and a coil?
Which filter? The 351 or the 371?
I could never understand this.
Unilite's were a solution to worn and bouncing points, nothing more than '60's technology.
Having vacuum advance and start retard is usually a good thing on a street driven vehicle.
I've spent a good deal of time dissecting them on the bench... after buying new modules for them.
What is the coil voltage with the key in the run position?
What is the voltage on the negative side when you trigger the distributor?
Your module doesn't seem popped. Why are you worrying about plug gaps?
The gap will not hurt the coil, but wire/plug radio frequency emission can damage the Mallory electronics.
Following the installation instructions to the letter is very important.
http://prestoliteperformance.com/Por...1214M_0000.pdf
http://prestoliteperformance.com/Por...edure_0007.pdf
The coil I pointed out is meant to work with the stock (DSII) ignition system.
It just has a pretty steep turn ratio because the stock system drops the input voltage so much in 'Run'
It should be fine, but I already have issues with Prestolite that shouldn't color this discussion.
So you're saying you have nothing but the Unilite, a filter and a coil?
Which filter? The 351 or the 371?
I could never understand this.
Unilite's were a solution to worn and bouncing points, nothing more than '60's technology.
Having vacuum advance and start retard is usually a good thing on a street driven vehicle.
I've spent a good deal of time dissecting them on the bench... after buying new modules for them.
What is the coil voltage with the key in the run position?
What is the voltage on the negative side when you trigger the distributor?
Your module doesn't seem popped. Why are you worrying about plug gaps?
The gap will not hurt the coil, but wire/plug radio frequency emission can damage the Mallory electronics.
Following the installation instructions to the letter is very important.
http://prestoliteperformance.com/Por...1214M_0000.pdf
http://prestoliteperformance.com/Por...edure_0007.pdf
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Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
Why not just go back to the DSII? I have never been a big fan of Accell since they first came out. I have seen more problems caused by their stuff (I'll be nice and not say what I'm thinking). Their points had enough spring tension to destroy the cams in distributors, their coils drew so much current they required an additional resistor. I had a customer who blew the Mopar ignition box in 20 min. he got about 10 miles and his car shut off. Prestolite makes some nice boat stuff but I don't remember any OEM automotive they built since Ramblers switched to electronic ignition and that early stuff may have been Prestolite.
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its the 351 filter
i havent checked the voltages yet but intend to do so real soon
im not really worried about the gaps i was just wondering and making sure
i had actually considered switching back to the DSII but have no idea where to start, ignitions really arent my strong point at all.
i really just wanna get this thing running and stop burning through coils but dont feel like spending an arm and a leg to do so
i havent checked the voltages yet but intend to do so real soon
im not really worried about the gaps i was just wondering and making sure
i had actually considered switching back to the DSII but have no idea where to start, ignitions really arent my strong point at all.
i really just wanna get this thing running and stop burning through coils but dont feel like spending an arm and a leg to do so
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
You can find all the DSII parts in almost any late '70's - early '80's Ford at the junkyard for about $50.
You need to get the blue grommet ignition module, the distributor, the coil and the harness that connects all them together.
(yeah, maybe you'd be better off with a "fresh" dizzy, but at least you'd have one for core)
You need to get the blue grommet ignition module, the distributor, the coil and the harness that connects all them together.
(yeah, maybe you'd be better off with a "fresh" dizzy, but at least you'd have one for core)
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peka
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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