Alignment cams
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From: Long Island USA
Alignment cams
I just did the balljoints in my '01, and the alignment cams on both sides were the exact same part number (Dana part # I'm assuming, since it's completely stock).
The cams had "0.0/0.5" on them, and a part number - I'll get the part number when I'm home later.
But, question: What do those numbers mean?
I now they are caster/camber, and the real question is, what do I need to get to add 2 degrees caster?
The cams had "0.0/0.5" on them, and a part number - I'll get the part number when I'm home later.
But, question: What do those numbers mean?
I now they are caster/camber, and the real question is, what do I need to get to add 2 degrees caster?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Millersburg, OH
I wonder that myself awhile back. I did some searching and basically depending on how you turn the bushing you can adjust caster or camber. So if you want to add +2 caster over stock look for a 2.5 bushing and make sure to install it the same way as the old bushing. I know Moog makes a 2 degree bushing K100065. I have not seen a fixed bushing that goes beyond 2 degrees at least from Moog.
EDIT: It looks like K8969 has an adjustment range to 2 3/4.
I picked up a set of Moog adjustable camber and caster (dual axis K80108) bushing but I have yet to put them in. According to my last alignment I have an idea of how I want to adjust the caster and the camber but I've just been to busy to play with it.
EDIT: It looks like K8969 has an adjustment range to 2 3/4.
I picked up a set of Moog adjustable camber and caster (dual axis K80108) bushing but I have yet to put them in. According to my last alignment I have an idea of how I want to adjust the caster and the camber but I've just been to busy to play with it.
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Yeah, I saw those Moog bushings...
I also found this: http://www2.dana.com/pdf/X510-2.pdf
See page 86 (fourth from the last page).
I have to get the number from the stock alignment cams, but it sounds like I have a 0.0 degree caster, 0.5 degree camber adjustment bushing.
So if I intend to just add 2 degrees of caster, I also have to keep .5 degrees of camber.
Weird that the Dana/Spicer catalog doesn't show a 0.0/0.5, but a 0.0/0.333 (0 degrees, 30 minutes). ON EDIT - 30 minutes is .5 degrees - DUH!
I'd rather just throw it in myself than spend the $100-150 or so for an alignment shop to do the same exact thing
I also found this: http://www2.dana.com/pdf/X510-2.pdf
See page 86 (fourth from the last page).
I have to get the number from the stock alignment cams, but it sounds like I have a 0.0 degree caster, 0.5 degree camber adjustment bushing.
So if I intend to just add 2 degrees of caster, I also have to keep .5 degrees of camber.
Weird that the Dana/Spicer catalog doesn't show a 0.0/0.5, but a 0.0/0.333 (0 degrees, 30 minutes). ON EDIT - 30 minutes is .5 degrees - DUH!
I'd rather just throw it in myself than spend the $100-150 or so for an alignment shop to do the same exact thing
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Gilbert Az.
Art as long as your using new ball joints you should be fine just picking the camber/ caste you want from the MOOG catalog & indexing them to the factory line I've been doing it for years and only had 1 with a problem (bent axel tube) I usually just check with a straight edge calibrated to 1/32" and a good square and compare top of rim to square on level ground & compare sides to verify equal camber, if camber is equal caster is usually very close, I hope this helps good luck!
Jim & fat Monty
Jim & fat Monty
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Thanks Jim, I intend to keep the same camber, just add 2 degrees camber.
I am very happy with the way the truck drives, just want a bit more "straightness".
Funny thing is, after the new balljoints, it's the FIRST TIME EVER that the wheel wants to return to center. Even brand-new, the stock balljoints seemed to not have enough grease or were tight.
I am very happy with the way the truck drives, just want a bit more "straightness".
Funny thing is, after the new balljoints, it's the FIRST TIME EVER that the wheel wants to return to center. Even brand-new, the stock balljoints seemed to not have enough grease or were tight.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Gilbert Az.
Check out the MOOG line you can mix tops and bottoms to get exactly the caster you want, I think they have around 25 or 30 combinations to play with! A little time and you can teach it to turn itself home...lol
Jim &fat Monyt
Jim &fat Monyt
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From: Millersburg, OH
Yeah, I saw those Moog bushings...
I also found this: http://www2.dana.com/pdf/X510-2.pdf
See page 86 (fourth from the last page).
I have to get the number from the stock alignment cams, but it sounds like I have a 0.0 degree caster, 0.5 degree camber adjustment bushing.
So if I intend to just add 2 degrees of caster, I also have to keep .5 degrees of camber.
Weird that the Dana/Spicer catalog doesn't show a 0.0/0.5, but a 0.0/0.333 (0 degrees, 30 minutes). ON EDIT - 30 minutes is .5 degrees - DUH!
I'd rather just throw it in myself than spend the $100-150 or so for an alignment shop to do the same exact thing
I also found this: http://www2.dana.com/pdf/X510-2.pdf
See page 86 (fourth from the last page).
I have to get the number from the stock alignment cams, but it sounds like I have a 0.0 degree caster, 0.5 degree camber adjustment bushing.
So if I intend to just add 2 degrees of caster, I also have to keep .5 degrees of camber.
Weird that the Dana/Spicer catalog doesn't show a 0.0/0.5, but a 0.0/0.333 (0 degrees, 30 minutes). ON EDIT - 30 minutes is .5 degrees - DUH!
I'd rather just throw it in myself than spend the $100-150 or so for an alignment shop to do the same exact thing
I'm with you on doing it myself.
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FTE Leadership Emeritus
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From: Long Island USA
Mike, you could be right. I gotta check the part number on the stock bushing when I get home today.
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FTE Leadership Emeritus
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From: Long Island USA
Oh, and Mike, what you say makes sense, however both bushings are the same part number. If it was the caster that was .5 degrees, that would mean it would be adjusted positive on one side, and negative on the other.
Logistics Pro
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From: Millersburg, OH
Yes but you can turn it one of 4 ways (i.e. front or back, inside or outside) so that you could adjust 0.5 degrees either caster (front or back) or camber (inside or outside) . At least this is my thinking of how the fixed bushing work.
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FTE Leadership Emeritus
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From: Long Island USA
There is no rotating them.
In my case, they both have the exact same part number, and have "0.0/0.5" on them.
here's the stock specs from my 2001 service manual CD for 4x4 250/350 and Excursion:
Alignment Specifications - F-250 and F-350, 4x4, Excursion -
Caster - LH 3.5ø +- 2ø - RH 3.5ø +- 2ø - Total 0ø +- 1ø
Camber - LH 0.25ø +- 1ø - RH 0.25ø +- 1ø - Total 0ø +- 1ø
Toe @ Curb Ride Height (Positive Value Is Toe-In, Negative Value Is Toe-Out)
0.03ø +- 0.25ø
Logistics Pro
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From: Millersburg, OH
I'll have to play around with the stock bushing when I put in the adjustable bushings I have. It appears replacement bushings have 4 flats sides any of which can be put against the lip of the knuckle depending on if you want +/- camber or caster. Maybe the stock bushing has only has two (or one) flat sides.
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FTE Leadership Emeritus
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From: Long Island USA
My alignment cams are indeed the 50421 part numbers.
So they are indeed "straight up" in terms of caster adjustment, with a .5 degree camber adjustment (I'm assuming it's "+").
So they are indeed "straight up" in terms of caster adjustment, with a .5 degree camber adjustment (I'm assuming it's "+").