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I used to take my trucksup to Gary in Deer Valley, He would set them up for me old school, and they were always perfect! But that's just to far now I'm in South Gilbert is Gary' Alignment still open? On 19th just north of Deer Valley? Really a good guy honest and dependable.
Jim & fat Monty
At first, I was thinking one of the 2.25 or 2.5 degree cams would work, because they have 8 separate "cogs" to orient the cam, and just put it one cog off, but that would be far more camber than just .5 degrees.
I always thought it looked like a brain scan as well. It resembled my brain, with all the holes in it, the first time I looked at the sheet.
Your link didn't work but if it was part number NCP 2643951 that looks like the exact same thing. Below are the instructions I have. It seems straight forward I just need to find a puller that can be tighted down horizontally. Looks like OTC makes 7310A or 7311A that would work for this. Not sure such a puller is needed though. Might just be able to pry under the bushing and work it out.
Did you put the Moog ball joints into your stock sleeves?
If so, that would indicate they are very similar in size!
Good point and yes I am using the stock bushing so...
Originally Posted by mwsF250
PS: I've found some alignment guys to be full of, well, doo doo. But they spew doo-doo with great authority!
...your point is proven!
I've had an alignment one time that made my truck handle so bad I could barely control it sometimes. So in my driveway with straight edges and tape measures I found one of the front wheels had about 4 degrees of toe in! The other was 0. I hand aligned it but made an appointment at another very trusted truck shop anyway. Came to find out I was within 1/32" from alignment. Not to bad considering my "primitive" method.
Dang, what a wonderful thread! I printed out the attachments and PN's for when I have to align my truck. I've never dealt with solid axles before, so wasn't fully understanding how to tweak caster without affecting camber, and vice versa. The Moog/NAPA dual axis system seems to make it easy.
THANK YOU for posting!
According to the workshop manual you should be able to use a puller similar to the OTC 7310A or the 7311A to pull the bushing. I'll need to find a 1/2" drive crowfoot wrench big enough to fit the lower ball joint nut though to be able to torque it back to spec.
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