I used to take my trucksup to Gary in Deer Valley, He would set them up for me old school, and they were always perfect! But that's just to far now I'm in South Gilbert is Gary' Alignment still open? On 19th just north of Deer Valley? Really a good guy honest and dependable.
Jim & fat Monty

 

I always thought it looked like a brain scan as well. It resembled my brain, with all the holes in it, the first time I looked at the sheet.

Your link didn't work but if it was part number NCP 2643951 that looks like the exact same thing. Below are the instructions I have. It seems straight forward I just need to find a puller that can be tighted down horizontally. Looks like OTC makes 7310A or 7311A that would work for this. Not sure such a puller is needed though. Might just be able to pry under the bushing and work it out.

 

Good point and yes I am using the stock bushing so...

...your point is proven!

I've had an alignment one time that made my truck handle so bad I could barely control it sometimes. So in my driveway with straight edges and tape measures I found one of the front wheels had about 4 degrees of toe in! The other was 0. I hand aligned it but made an appointment at another very trusted truck shop anyway. Came to find out I was within 1/32" from alignment. Not to bad considering my "primitive" method.

 

Dang, what a wonderful thread! I printed out the attachments and PN's for when I have to align my truck. I've never dealt with solid axles before, so wasn't fully understanding how to tweak caster without affecting camber, and vice versa. The Moog/NAPA dual axis system seems to make it easy.
THANK YOU for posting!

 

Mike, that bushing came right out for me - after using the HOT WRENCH.

I then applied anti-seize when I reassembled with the new balljoints.

If you're not changing the ball joints, I don't know how you'd get that thing out of there.

let me think on it...

 

According to the workshop manual you should be able to use a puller similar to the OTC 7310A or the 7311A to pull the bushing. I'll need to find a 1/2" drive crowfoot wrench big enough to fit the lower ball joint nut though to be able to torque it back to spec.

 

And now the installation procedure and torque figures?

Where will the goodness end?

Maybe I should post my address.... You guys might as well just swing on by and do all the physical work for me as well!

 

Looks like that NAPA piece I found at NAPA is this by McQuay-Norris:

http://www.amazon.com/McQuay-Norris-...dp/B000EIZSWS/

Not sure I want 3/4 degrees of camber though.

 

Anything to give back to everyone at FTE! BTW if you were closer I would come over and lend a hand.

 

That would put you at a +1/4 camber and spes are -3/8 to +1 5/8 so that's still pretty good.

 

True, just trying to keep camber exactly what it is now - no weird tire wear for the past 11 years, so...

Of course, that was with the ball joints loose, so an extra 1/4 degree is nothing...