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JUST TO LET EVERYONE KNOW, THIS IS NOT WHAT I WOULD NORMALLY DO BUT SINCE IM BUSTED AND IT COST'S AROUND 1500.00 TO FIX THIS PROBLEM FOR THE SECOND TIME, AND AGAIN IM NOT TRYING TO SELL ANYONES PARTS OR FORMULA BUT I HAVE PUT A BOTTLE OF K-SEAL HD INTO THE OVERFLOW OF MY 2004 F-250, THIS IS THE SECOND EGR COOLER WE SELL THIS AT THE PARTS HOUSE FOR BIG TRUCKS, I DIDNT HAVE MUCH FAITH THAT ANYTHING WOULD CHANGE BUT I DUMPED IT INTO THE OVERFLOW AND DROVE IT AROUND 50 TO 75 MILES, AT AROUND 20 MILES I GOT THAT JERKING THAT THE TRUCK WAS DOING AROUND 65MPH, AT 35 MILES IT WENT AWAY AND THE TRUCK RUN PERFECT, DOES NOT WHITE SMOKE ANYMORE, NO SMELL OF COOLANT,NO DTC'S WERE THROWN FROM THE COMPUTER, TRUCK RUNS GREAT, I AM WATCHING THE TEMPS BY MY BULLY DOG GT TUNER AND MY DELTAS ARE AROUND 25 DEGREES DIFFERANT, WHICH FROM WHAT IM READING IS A LITTLE HIGH, BUT FOR THE MOMENT I CAN STILL GET AROUND....HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE
Wow you put that in your truck? I'm beting you completely clogged your oil cooler and you are getting no coolant flow to your egr cooler at all. You better check your spread so you dont melt your oil standpipe.
That stuff you just put in finished off your oil cooler
I had a 25-30* spread and my oil cooler was plugged solid
Your plugged oil cooler is whats KILLING your EGR coolers maybe you already know that IDK but just wanted to make shure you knew that so you can fix the root cause
WELL UNREAL I WATCH THE SPREAD ON THE MONITER, MY COOLANT TEMP IS 195, OIL TEMP 220, I HAVE DRIVEN THE TRUCK ABOUT 500 MILES SO FAR....
BUT ONE QUESTION HOW THE HELL WOULD I CLOG THE OIL COOLER UP? COOLANT DOESENT RUN THROUGH THE OIL COOLER, CORRECT? THE COOLANT JUST RUNS THROUGH THE EGR COOLER CORRECT??? THERE AINT NO WATER IN THE OIL, OR OIL IN THE WATER, AND IF IT CLOGGED THE EGR COOLER UP SO WHAT, WOULDNT THAT ACT THE SAME AS AN EGR DELETE KIT....LOL DONT KNOW I REALLY DIDNT WANT TO PUT IT IN THERE BUT HAD NO CHOICE.. NOT SURE WHAT THE NORMAL OIL TEMP SHOULD BE, DO YOU KNOW?
THANKS BLADE, YEA I FIGURE IT WAS THE OIL COOLER, I WENT TO THE FORD HOUSE AND TALKED TO THE GUY THAT SUPOSEDLY FIXED IT OR CHANGED THE OIL COOLER WHE HE FIXED THE EGR COOLER LAST TIME BUT ILL BET ANYTHING THEY DIDNT CHANGE THE OIL COOLER, ITS JUST TILL I CAN GET THE MONEY TO CHANGE IT, IM GOING TO PUT THE EGR DELETE KIT ON IT WITH A NEW OIL COOLER, I MEAN IT IT DONT RUN HOT OR THE OIL TEMP GETS TO HOT, WHAT WILL IT HURT, IM WATCHING BOTH..
SO THE COOLANT RUNS THROUGH DIFFERANT VEINS OF THE OIL COOLER, IS THAT WHAT IM GATHERING HERE? WELL SH&* I HOPE IT WILL BE OK, IS THERE ANY OTHER OIL COOLER THAT I CAN PUT IN IT OTHER THAN THE OEM PART?
THANKS BLADE, YEA I FIGURE IT WAS THE OIL COOLER, I WENT TO THE FORD HOUSE AND TALKED TO THE GUY THAT SUPOSEDLY FIXED IT OR CHANGED THE OIL COOLER WHE HE FIXED THE EGR COOLER LAST TIME BUT ILL BET ANYTHING THEY DIDNT CHANGE THE OIL COOLER, ITS JUST TILL I CAN GET THE MONEY TO CHANGE IT, IM GOING TO PUT THE EGR DELETE KIT ON IT WITH A NEW OIL COOLER, I MEAN IT IT DONT RUN HOT OR THE OIL TEMP GETS TO HOT, WHAT WILL IT HURT, IM WATCHING BOTH..
If you rupure the egr cooler from lack of flow it can hydrolock the engine and your going to need a ton of money. You'r playing with fire at this point.
As Steve pointed out, the oil cooler and EGR cooler are plumbed in series. The normal failure with the EGR cooler is cause by clogged oil cooler starving the EGR cooler for coolant and it overheats until it springs a leak. Coolant from the leak goes into the intake manifold and into the cylinder where it flashes to steam and make much higher pressure than the head bolts and gaskets are supposed to see. Even worse than that, if liquid water gets to the cylinder, it doesn't compress when the piston gets to the top of the stroke. This is a "hydro lock" and the engine will stop NOW. Sorta like throwing a stick through the spokes of a bicycle as someone rides by you. Fixing it then will require bearings and rods and pistons and maybe even head, block, crankshaft replacement.
Monitoring oil and coolant temps kinda tell you some of the story but there's no good way to monitor the EGR cooler and if it fails suddenly, you'll get the hydrolock 69cj is warning about. I would make plans to change BOTH coolers ASAP before driving the truck.
Ok Caps lock is off, Thanks guys for the advise will be tearing it down next week, man i hope i can do this, camera will be busy,lol one other question when i put the EGR delete kit on what happens to the coolant then? if they are ran in series, so then the oil cooler will be the only one getting the fluid around it??im sure the delete kit comes with good instructions, i hope....and is there any way to flush out the system to get the stuff i poured in there out before tear down? Thanks again
Definitely Flush the system thoroughly with distilled water and "vc-9" before changing oil cooler, and when refilling in the future only use distilled water and preferably silicate free coolant. You can find step by step on coolant flushes with a quick search of the forums.
As far as the egr delete, you remove the old egr cooler and install a straight pipe for the exhaust and a J looking pipe to divert the coolant after it exits oil cooler, very simple design when you dig into it.