Can someone please tell me where the "retaining screw" is for the turn signal is so I can get this switch changed??? Sorry '65 f100

 

I am not sure what you reference by " turn signal retaining screw"

The turn signal switch is below the steering wheel, meaning you will have to pull the wheel.

Don't forget to disconnect the battery.

Also, the wires from the turn signal switch won't just pull up thru the column until you remove them individually from the connector. It requires a special tool to release these wires from said connector.


There are also other parts you need to keep track of during this operation as well.

 

After you pull the steering wheel, you'll see that there are 3 "retaining screws" for the switch.

 

Thanks I guess what I should of said was turn signal lever. But I will be ordering one of those tools. I learned a few thinngs tonight like the difference between a switch and a cam and that I have only 1 15/16 wrench and it says cresent on the side. But nonetheless my steering wheel went back on with "no gap" so the next time I won't be cringing as bad. I give up for the evening it was getting pretty dark under that shade tree. This tail light issue is making me pull out the last few hairs I have on my head. Thanks again OLDHARLEY

 

My turn signal lever has two 'flats' made into it and just screws into the switch.

If that 'cresent' wrench is adjustable, and small enough, it will work - lever can be tightened with your wrench, but you shouldn't need to tighten it too much. BTW, there is no retaining screw on the lever.

Seems I read that if you have the right size metal ballpoint pen cartridge, it may be able to be substituted for that tool to release (compress) the turn signal pins from the connector - they have a little tab that holds them in place that has to be squeezed in before they will pull thru.

 

Harley, where can one get that pin removal tool at ??

- cs65

 

There is a much easier three step method to R&R the T/S switch. No special tool is required, just a pair of side cutters, masking tape and a long piece of heavy string.

1) CUT the wires off where they feed into the connector, leaving enough that their color codes can be determined. Tape the wires together, tie a long piece of string to them.

2) REMOVE the old switch from the column. Tape the new switch wires together, tie the string to them.

3) PULL the string from the bottom of the column, the wires will easily feed down it. Now, remove each cut off colored wire end, install each new colored wire into the connector.

Without doing it this way...attempting to feed the new T/S wires down the column without having them bunch up can be a real b!tch!

And...you may mis-match the new colored wires when installing each into the connector. 'Fried wire city' will occur as a result.

Ford techs used this system, takes seconds to R&R a switch, and...

Be aware that the horn brushes, nylon insulators are hand pressed into the outside of the steering wheel. When the wheel is removed, one or both of these parts can fall out.

When this occurres, it usually goes unnoticed, so when the steering wheel is re-installed, peeps wonder why the horn no longer blows.

 

camperDon, That illustration came from a page out of the National Parts Depot catalog.

ND, Yep those are those 'other parts' I mentioned. No question that your method is quicker AND as you say, you do need to make a diagram of the wire layout if you use the tool to remove the individual wires from the connector(s), cuz you gotta replace them in the correct order.

My wires were also in a vinyl wire sleeve so it was easier to feed them together down the column raceway- it's only 8 or 9 inches long.

 

It's not my method, it was RK's method. No one on earth could install a T/S switch faster than RK...a Ford line mechanic at Walker Motor Co. in West LA.

 

I think RK musta worked on my truck, cuz when I did my P/S changeover, all the T/S wires had been cut and reconnected with crimp connectors

 

When you lived in Hemet did you drive to WLA to have the switch replaced?

Prolly not, but I assume that RK, Russell Kader-- (aka 'The Living Cadaver" aka 'Buzzard Beak') wasn't the only Ford tech that used the R&R method, but he didn't use crimp connectors.

Russell was sooo thin, he could pass thru jail bars....if his buzzard beak didn't get in the way.