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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 09:55 PM
  #31  
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Open something like MS Paint even, then "Save As" JPEG, then you can attach the image.

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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 10:02 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by nissandoc
EOT was at 125 when ECT was at 302.
Gauge was at about 1/8th.
My AE has never been able to read ECT. It just rolls along like an odometer and at some point it starts over again. I wouldn't put too much faith in the ECT value that AE shows...
 
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 10:18 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by mueckster
Have you tried ohming the IPR coil? It should read between 5 and 20 ohms. Just a WAG, but it could have an "open" in it when it heats up.
Roland,

At one time I had 4 IPR solenoids and couldn't help but measure the resistance on their windings. Each one read differently but were between 10.2
to 10.6 ohms. If the reading was 10.4 it was a steady 10.4. A friend had a rough idle. When he ohmed out the solenoid it would range between
10.0 and 10.8. He installed one of my spares and his idle smoothed out. The solenoid is controlled by a 400 hertz signal and if the winding is not
consistent it can't hold the needle in the IPR steady. Hence the rough idle.

Good point about possibly going open due to high heat.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 10:27 PM
  #34  
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From: Payson, AZ
Originally Posted by Shake-N-Bake
My AE has never been able to read ECT. It just rolls along like an odometer and at some point it starts over again. I wouldn't put too much faith in the ECT value that AE shows...
Now I remember. We just talked about that.

The comparison I made on my truck was actually between the EOT on AE and my aftermarket coolant temp gauge.

By the way, good catch on having to re-enter the code to get "Enhanced Powetrain"
 
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 12:44 AM
  #35  
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Subscribing! And my .02 is on the IPR coil as well I've had them go through the scale when hot and cause all kinds of issues! I think Robins right on track!
Jim & fat Monty
 
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 07:00 PM
  #36  
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Think I have her fixed fella's. I went ahead and picked up an IPR today so when I got home I ohm'd my original and then the new one. 192 old, 10.2 new.
Put it in and the trucks been running for more than 30 minutes now.
New one cost me $186.10 with taxes. What really sucks is the air flow meter on my Maxima went out today as well. $200 for an aftermarket one. Time to scrounge up some side work.

Thanks for all the help guys.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 08:42 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by nissandoc
I ohm'd my original and then the new one. 192 old, 10.2 new.
Bad solenoid strikes again.

Thanks for the update and glad you're up and running.

You were rght on in your post #15.

Originally Posted by nissandoc
bad IPR solenoid.

Thoughts?
 
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 09:40 PM
  #38  
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Glad your up and going. Them old IPR's can make you think about alot of things. It did me.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 10:14 PM
  #39  
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Ive gotten to the point where I keep one on the shelf they have stumped me a few times!
Jim & fat Monty
 
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 10:36 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by hotroddsl
Ive gotten to the point where I keep one on the shelf they have stumped me a few times!
Jim & fat Monty
Both an IPR & and a couple solenoids, right?
 
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 11:06 PM
  #41  
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No just a F81Z-9C968-AB fuel pressure regulator aka CM-5013
jim & fat Monty
 
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 11:30 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by hotroddsl
No just a F81Z-9C968-AB fuel pressure regulator aka CM-5013
jim & fat Monty
That nomenclature for the IPR is confusing at a dealership parts counter. I asked for an FPR rebuild kit. They pulled up a drawing and pointed at the IPR. I had to get them to pull up a fuel system drawing so I could point to the FPR, which they don't call the FPR.

I keep a couple of solenoids because it can be just the solenoid as often as the IPR. As in Darrell's case it was the solenoid that was bad and not the IPR.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 12:19 AM
  #43  
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I just make it a point to replace them as a unit, I have noticed that by the time the coil is giving trouble the shaft is usually showing that discoloration and the valve shaft almost always seems to have a little drag when that appears! Just a little luxury of working on fleet trucks is I always got the say on what got fixed and what parts went on! Down time is more expensive than OEM parts and complete repairs
Jim & fat Monty
 
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 12:44 AM
  #44  
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From: Payson, AZ
Originally Posted by hotroddsl
I just make it a point to replace them as a unit,

I have noticed that by the time the coil is giving trouble the shaft is usually showing that discoloration and the valve shaft almost always seems to have a little drag when that appears!

Just a little luxury of working on fleet trucks is I always got the say on what got fixed and what parts went on! Down time is more expensive than OEM parts and complete repairs
Jim & fat Monty
Thanks for this info. You have taught me something new.

The fleet I keep running totals one truck, my own.
 
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