Problems AGAIN!!!
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Posting Guru
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From: North Cackalacky
Have some stuff at work I can probably make work. Do you know what the specs are and the best place to hook up the gauge?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
Tonight after letting truck run for about 20 minutes it cut off and wouldnt start back up.
I put in the gray CPS that I had for my spare and still no start.
ICP would only build to about 150. Unplugged sensor and still no start. I'm thinking that I have either a weak LPOP that cant keep up or a bad IPR solenoid.
Thoughts?
I put in the gray CPS that I had for my spare and still no start.
ICP would only build to about 150. Unplugged sensor and still no start. I'm thinking that I have either a weak LPOP that cant keep up or a bad IPR solenoid.
Thoughts?
What's the oil level in the res now.
Did you monitor EOP with AE while cranking? Even a low reading would mean the HPOP res is filling up enough. The EOP sensor is on top of the
reservoir. If there were allot of air in the res you probably wouldn't get any reading.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
10 PSI at idle but while cranking it would be less.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,967
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From: Bowling Green, Kentucky
Tonight after letting truck run for about 20 minutes it cut off and wouldnt start back up.
I put in the gray CPS that I had for my spare and still no start.
ICP would only build to about 150. Unplugged sensor and still no start. I'm thinking that I have either a weak LPOP that cant keep up or a bad IPR solenoid.
Thoughts?
I put in the gray CPS that I had for my spare and still no start.
ICP would only build to about 150. Unplugged sensor and still no start. I'm thinking that I have either a weak LPOP that cant keep up or a bad IPR solenoid.
Thoughts?
Have you ever took a IPR apart and cleaned it? Its pretty easy I have seen one that quit working that had a very small piece of crud in the little hole inside. I have a used spare IPR that I could send you if you would like to try it.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: North Cackalacky
Thanks Robin. Wanted to check the level in the reservoir but didnt bring any tools home with me.
Eddie, I took it apart and cleaned it last summer before RRE.
What seems funny to me is that it will run just fine for 10-2o minutes at idle and then just dies like I cut the key off. No spit or sputter. Its done this 2 days in a row.
Also when it was running the engine coolant temp was reading almost 300* on AE and it had only been running for about 5 minutes so I know it wasnt that hot. Wiggled the wires at the connector but it didnt change. I did get a screen shot but cant figure out how to post it.
Eddie, I took it apart and cleaned it last summer before RRE.
What seems funny to me is that it will run just fine for 10-2o minutes at idle and then just dies like I cut the key off. No spit or sputter. Its done this 2 days in a row.
Also when it was running the engine coolant temp was reading almost 300* on AE and it had only been running for about 5 minutes so I know it wasnt that hot. Wiggled the wires at the connector but it didnt change. I did get a screen shot but cant figure out how to post it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,298
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From: Damon (South East Texas)
AE will read screwy on ECT on an auto trans truck. It can read pretty close after full operating temp, but is way off 'til then.
Have you tried ohming the IPR coil? It should read between 5 and 20 ohms. Just a WAG, but it could have an "open" in it when it heats up.
Have you tried ohming the IPR coil? It should read between 5 and 20 ohms. Just a WAG, but it could have an "open" in it when it heats up.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
Thanks Robin. Wanted to check the level in the reservoir but didnt bring any tools home with me.
Eddie, I took it apart and cleaned it last summer before RRE.
What seems funny to me is that it will run just fine for 10-2o minutes at idle and then just dies like I cut the key off. No spit or sputter. Its done this 2 days in a row.
Also when it was running the engine coolant temp was reading almost 300* on AE and it had only been running for about 5 minutes so I know it wasnt that hot. Wiggled the wires at the connector but it didnt change. I did get a screen shot but cant figure out how to post it.
Eddie, I took it apart and cleaned it last summer before RRE.
What seems funny to me is that it will run just fine for 10-2o minutes at idle and then just dies like I cut the key off. No spit or sputter. Its done this 2 days in a row.
Also when it was running the engine coolant temp was reading almost 300* on AE and it had only been running for about 5 minutes so I know it wasnt that hot. Wiggled the wires at the connector but it didnt change. I did get a screen shot but cant figure out how to post it.
No one likes to throw parts at a problem but coolant temp senders are cheap.
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From: North Cackalacky
If doing that was as easy as rebuilding a transmission I would have already done it. LOL. I dont know chit about how to do stuff on computers.
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From: North Cackalacky
Where's the stock idiot gauge when AE reads 300? It would be nice to compare AE EOT to ECT while the ECT is rising to that high a temp. If the EOT isn't showing close to the same temp I woud think the ECT sender is bad.
No one likes to throw parts at a problem but coolant temp senders are cheap.
No one likes to throw parts at a problem but coolant temp senders are cheap.
EOT was at 125 when ECT was at 302.
Gauge was at about 1/8th.