1950 F1 HELP
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New User
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Fayetteville, Arkansas
1950 F1 HELP
Hi everyone... I need some help for a 1950 Ford F1
Q1. The truck has equal number of springs in front and equal springs in back, but the entire truck/bed is leaning to the left(tilted). It has all new shocks. It is approx 3/4" higher on right side than on the left side... Now, what should I be looking at to get this adjusted even?
Q2. What recommendations do you have for lights in back? I need turn signals, brake lights, and running tail lights. It is my understanding you can have brake lights and running lights on one because it runs out of the brake master.... but the guy wiring my truck said I would need seperate lights for turn signals coming from the turn signal on column (unlike newer cars).... Suggestions?
Thanks
Q1. The truck has equal number of springs in front and equal springs in back, but the entire truck/bed is leaning to the left(tilted). It has all new shocks. It is approx 3/4" higher on right side than on the left side... Now, what should I be looking at to get this adjusted even?
Q2. What recommendations do you have for lights in back? I need turn signals, brake lights, and running tail lights. It is my understanding you can have brake lights and running lights on one because it runs out of the brake master.... but the guy wiring my truck said I would need seperate lights for turn signals coming from the turn signal on column (unlike newer cars).... Suggestions?
Thanks
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,224
Likes: 19
From: scotia. NY 12302
you can do tail, directional and brake lights in one light: double filament bulb (1157 i think). the tail light is wired to one filament, the brake light switch wire goes to the directional switch and the directional switch takes care of it from there, the second filament does directional and brake. you may need a new directional switch on the column, they cost about $25 plus shipping and are easy to install.
truck tilt? 60 years of heavy driver, no passenger???
dick r.
truck tilt? 60 years of heavy driver, no passenger???
dick r.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 4,963
Likes: 261
From: East KY
Welcome. What are you measuring to determine the height discrepancy? (i.e. the frame rails or the bed itself?). There's a LOT of different reasons for the discrepancy. When I first bought my 50, it had an obvious difference between the right and left when looking at the rear end. I was scared to death that I had a bent frame, etc. It ended up being a problem with the bed. One of the corners was torqued down more than the others with less cushion. And it made the whole rear end look uneven.
As far as the turn signals, brake lights, etc., you can purchase a turn signal kit (google a "Signal Stat 900" for example) that will allow you to do all you need with factory appearing tailights containing double filament bulbs.
As far as the turn signals, brake lights, etc., you can purchase a turn signal kit (google a "Signal Stat 900" for example) that will allow you to do all you need with factory appearing tailights containing double filament bulbs.
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New User
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Fayetteville, Arkansas
We were measuring floor to fender at wheel well (even floor on level). The bed is obvious that it is about 1/2"- 3/4" off but it is bolted to frame. The truck appears to lean to the left a little. We are just puzzled as how we can fix this.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 4,963
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From: East KY
The first thing you need to do is make sure both tires have the same amount of air and that the rear leaf springs both look good. Then measure the distance from the floor to the bottom of the frame rail in various places and compare. Yes, the bed is bolted to the frame, and the fenders are obviously bolted to the bed. But there's many potential discrepancies between all those attachments. So start at the beginning (the frame rails) and work your way out until you see the difference. Believe it or not, the bed on my 50 loosened up some and actually straightened itself out right before I tore the truck apart.
I noticed your username. Are you in the craziest profession like me?
I noticed your username. Are you in the craziest profession like me?
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New User
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Fayetteville, Arkansas
Doc,
I am in Cardiology lol...always on call at hospital lol. I appreciate your help. We will measure tomorrow.
I found a Grote 48072 Turn Signal Kit at O'Reilly Automotive for $59.99 -- Is this what I need to run brake, tail lights, turn signals all in one light?
Jeff
I am in Cardiology lol...always on call at hospital lol. I appreciate your help. We will measure tomorrow.
I found a Grote 48072 Turn Signal Kit at O'Reilly Automotive for $59.99 -- Is this what I need to run brake, tail lights, turn signals all in one light?
Jeff
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 4,963
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From: East KY
Oh I know exactly what you mean by the call thing. I'm a family doc in KY. That turn signal you posted would probably work. But I personally think it looks too "modern". Here's the one I have:
30 40 50 VINTAGE Signal-Stat TURN SIGNAL SWITCH NOS^Z30 | eBay
You will have to mount this and get some double filament bulbs for the rear tail lights. It has really good instructions and will work with either 12 volt or 6 volt systems. You'll also need a blinker to mount under the dash. We can walk you through the install.
If you don't mind, go into your user control panel and post where you're located. It helps when there may be an FTE member nearby who could help you out. And, we need pics of your truck. That's mandatory.
Welcome again.
Shane
30 40 50 VINTAGE Signal-Stat TURN SIGNAL SWITCH NOS^Z30 | eBay
You will have to mount this and get some double filament bulbs for the rear tail lights. It has really good instructions and will work with either 12 volt or 6 volt systems. You'll also need a blinker to mount under the dash. We can walk you through the install.
If you don't mind, go into your user control panel and post where you're located. It helps when there may be an FTE member nearby who could help you out. And, we need pics of your truck. That's mandatory.
Welcome again.Shane
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,426
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From: Hot AZ (Phoenix Valley)
Also measure the ground to the bottom part of the axles. And like others have said measure the frame I would also measure at the spring mounting points on the frame... I have a feeling that your spring bushings on the driver's side are worn out... Very common with these old vehicles..
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 7,669
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From: San Jose, CA
Welcome!
Additionally, make sure that the tire/wheel size and wear are the same on both sides.
As for the turn signals, a Signal Stat 900 is the most popular and universal. You'll need to wire it into your truck and add wires to all four lights. You'll need a turn signal flasher as well. It's likely that the front lights are single contact (running lights only), while the rears should be dual contact (running lights and brake lights). You'll need to replace the contacts in the front lights. It's easy to do and a replacement dual contact is readily available. I believe that I bought mine either at AutoZone or O'Reilly's. Adding turn signals is easy and shouldn't take too long if you know your way around an electrical diagram.
Additionally, make sure that the tire/wheel size and wear are the same on both sides.
As for the turn signals, a Signal Stat 900 is the most popular and universal. You'll need to wire it into your truck and add wires to all four lights. You'll need a turn signal flasher as well. It's likely that the front lights are single contact (running lights only), while the rears should be dual contact (running lights and brake lights). You'll need to replace the contacts in the front lights. It's easy to do and a replacement dual contact is readily available. I believe that I bought mine either at AutoZone or O'Reilly's. Adding turn signals is easy and shouldn't take too long if you know your way around an electrical diagram.
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