The truck starts great when its first started during the day. Sometimes when I turn it off and start it back up in like an hour or half hour it turns over for a good while before finally cranking up. I was wondering what would be a cause of this? The plugs have about 10,000 miles on them but I havent replaced the rotor and distributor cap since I've had it. would that cause it to do this only when the engines hot? Thanks for any info on this.

 

I have the exact same problem with my 1995 F-150! It is 5.0 automatic. I have replaced countless items. The injectors are about the only thing that I havent replaced. I have also been told that they may be the problem by several people. So, you might try that. You can get new Ford Racing injectors from Summit and Jegs for about 200 bucks. This is probably what I am going to do. None of the fuel cleaners seem to do much. The Berrymans total fuel cleaner seems to have helped a little. You could give that a shot. Their injector cleaner didn't do anything noticable. If you replace the injectors let me know if that worked. You'll probably need 19 lb per hour injectors. Hope this helps.

 

You guys might want to check this out. It sounds like the same thing. If you have high mileage and haven't checked your timing lately, it might be worth a try. As the timing chain wears, your timing will change because of the slop created on the teeth.

If nothing else, it's a cheap and easy check.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...6&goto=newpost

 

My truck has about 69,000 miles so I don't see how the timing or the injectors could be bad already. Or could they?

 

It's not that the timing chain is bad, it may just be alittle loose and need reset. It's a cheap check. Even 1* or 2* on these things makes a difference.

 

I have a couple of questions:
I have a 92 f-150 with a 5.0 auto. that has the same problems I see that TexasGuy001 has replaced countless items I was wondering what these items are so maybe I wont buy these same parts and be disappointed.? Also you said that 19 lb injector will probably be needed, why 19 lb over 14 lb? My injectors are 14 lb (grey tops)

 

All of the V8's (302 351) I have seen have the yellow injectors wich is 19 lb. Thats what mine has. I'm not sure about the 460 though. The 6 cyl's have the grey 14 lb. I think blue is 24 lb. I'm not sure about 36 lb etc. As far as parts that I have replaced well here goes:

coil plugs wires cap rotor
pcv valve
fuel filter
cleaned K&N air filter even tried temporarily using a fram
oxygen sensor
throttle position sensor
ignition control module
EGR valve and all related sensors and solenoids etc
Thermactor air bypass and diverter solenoids (2)
intake air bypass valve (i think thats what its called)
intake air temperature sensor
coolant temperature sensor
starter (that finally went out)
battery
starter solenoid
igntion switch
all relays in the power distribution box
checked all fuses

There might be a couple other things. So now you know what probably isn't the culprit.

I do have a question. How do you check the timing?? It's easy on my 65 mustang, but on the truck I don't see how anyone can read the marks. Do you have to remove anything to see it?? Or do you use something other than a timing light??

 

You don't say, but did you pull any codes? If it's a 542, I say we all class action Ford's butt!! (just kidding) That seems to be a somewhat common problem with no clear solution. At least one I'm stuggling with.

Woodlums

 

I wouldn't think that you would have to remove anything to check the timing. All balancers should have the mark on them and there should be the indicator on the block. Should be might be the key words.

My Haynes has never said anything special, except to unhook the SPOUT, otherwise you will never get it timed right.

Sorry I can't be more help on this.

 

the timing marks are a little hard to read on these. the actual degree marks ar on the balancer, so you need to take a crayon and mark the 10 degree mark, then you find the bracket that is about sticking off of the front of the block, underneath the alternator just above the balancer, it will have a hole in one end for a magnetic timing probe, use the far end of this to set your base timing. It will be flat cut on one end with what looks like a pointer sticking toward the radiator. Use the end that has the pointer to check the timing, if the crayon mark lines up with the right edge of the pointer then you're ok there. Mine runs about 3 degrees off.

 

I have heard that the oil pressure sender can impead the engine from starting if the pressure is low. it is connected to the fuel pump circuit or something. When your engine is cold the oil is thick and starts right away. When warm, the engine must crank so the pressure is up then it starts. What do you think. I have the same issue and have noticed this. When it gets warmer, I am going to change the sender. Especially kwowing were the pressure is read in the engine, this could be an issue.
-RR

 

I have heard that about the oil sending unit. But, if that is the case, then replacing the sender probably won't help. I haven't seen a sender partially work. That's just my experience. Usually, they just go.

The comp must monitor the oil pressure from the sending unit, and then supply power to the fuel system.

If your timing is too far advanced, it will be hard to start warm. The knock sensor retards the timing so that it doesn't knock, so you don't know that your timing is out.

If your engine cranks smoothly, then it isn't the timing.

 

What color are the injectors on other guys 5.0? I bought my truck with 60,000 miles and the injectors are grey. Maybe somebody has changed them however I can't see that with so few miles.

 

Fordtruckinsml...did you check your fuel pump? On start up, the fuel pump is supposed to give the injectors a boost of about 40 pounds right away to get the engine started. On initial startup when the engine is cold, it may not need the extra fuel pressure as your cpmouter pretty much chokes the engine anyways. anyways pull the codes and see what it tells you...

 

I havent checked the fuel pump yet but thats a good idea. I will also pull the codes to and let you guys know what I find out. It isn't hard to start when its hot all the times. But it happens probably 1 out of 7 days a week but thats it. So its making me wonder if it is the injectors or maybe the pump. But the pump hasnt been making any unusual noises like I would think it would do if its dieing on me. Thanks for all the replys!