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Remove E4OD pan

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  #16  
Old 10-03-2011, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Encho
There is also a procedure to refill the tranny, don't pour 16 qts. of ATF at once, so ask if you need any help.
As of this moment, the motor is out of the truck and the torque converter is off. I need to drop the tranny pan and do some work, then put all back together. Not sure if the motor will run after I put it in, there are some problems with the computer. What is the best way to fill the tranny if the motor won't run? Also, do you know how to properly install and fill a torque converter?

Thanks.
 
  #17  
Old 10-03-2011, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris72
For every tech you find that tells you doing something like this is OK, Youll find 2 more that will tell you its not.

If it owrks for you then thats great. But a transmission doesnt like being low on fluid Ever. Even for that moment when air comes thru, your depriving something from fluid.
Right....

Ive done the line drain before, if your smart you have one pumping out and one pumping in from a 5 gal pail.

I bet you are gonna cringe when I tell you pouring a little bit of water inside a carb while an engines running will clean up the valves.
 
  #18  
Old 10-03-2011, 07:03 PM
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whats the proper prcedure for filling a E4od? maybe i filled mine wring and thats why it blew up on me haha
 
  #19  
Old 10-03-2011, 11:39 PM
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there is a video on youtube that details the process (similar to what people have posted).

Also x2 on installing the drain plug...it saves lots of hassle
 
  #20  
Old 10-04-2011, 12:21 AM
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RIKIL, the engine must be working in order to refill the tranny, and the tranny will refill the torque converter, once it's properly installed. The procedure is very straightforward, but you must pay attention and do it carefully:
- With the engine OFF, fill the tranny, checking the level, until it's topped (in the cross-hatched area of the dipstick), this should take between 4 - 6 qts. of ATF.
- Start the engine and let it warm up until it settles at operating iddle, when the operating temperature is reached, start pouring qts.
- Pour 1 - 2 qts at a time, then measure the lvl, keep track of how much fluid you have used so far, and don't overfill it at any moment.
- Once you reach 14 qts. start pouring ONE qts at a time, then measure, until the tranny is topped, this is pretty much it.
- Get under the truck and check for any leaks coming from the pan's gasket, try to pinpoint the trouble spots and have the socket wrench ready with the 10mm socket to tighten any bolt near these spots 1/4 of a turn at a time.
 
  #21  
Old 10-07-2011, 03:18 PM
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That webpage with the pictures showing the installed drain plug is a little humorous. The picture shows the ridges(A round dimple and three "Stripes") I was talking about that look like Ford had a spot in mind for a drain plug but didn't install one. That is exactly where I installed my plug.

Drilling out the center dimple with the correct size hole for the plug is very easy and since there is already a dimple there, the drill bit doesn't dance all over the place.

Just a comment. I wonder why the poster of that picture didn't just drill there? The three stripes are almost like arrows pointing and saying "Drill right here". BTW, keep in mind a drain plug is also a new opportunity for leaks and can catch on stuff if you off road a lot.

Jim Henderson

A quick comment on filling the tranny and converter... the few times I have had the TC out of the car, I just filled up the converter to a little less than half way thru the snout. I like to have some lubricant in there before I fire the engine up. Do less than halfway so that when you turn the converter verticle to install it, it doesn't spill atf all over. There are lots of methods to fill the tranny. I like to just fill the pan and converter(less than 1/2 full) with about 1/2 to 3/4 of the total amount of fluid specified. When you fire up the engine, this will have plenty of fluid in the pan so that it doesn't start dry. Then top up as needed.
 
  #22  
Old 10-09-2011, 12:42 PM
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Those indentations in the bottom of the pan are for the magnet on the inside. The middle, round area is what fits into the middle of the magnet and the three raised areas are to raise the magnet off the pan to increase the surface area for collection.
 
  #23  
Old 10-09-2011, 02:53 PM
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Why not use one of those valves that everyone replaces their oil pan pug with?
 
  #24  
Old 10-02-2015, 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by LeoJr
Why not use one of those valves that everyone replaces their oil pan pug with?
old thread, but this is the first i've heard of these. sounds like a good idea. anyone care to comment ?
 
  #25  
Old 10-02-2015, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by joey2fords
old thread, but this is the first i've heard of these. sounds like a good idea. anyone care to comment ?
it's not very difficult to turn a ratchet and socket.
 
  #26  
Old 10-03-2015, 09:15 AM
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joey2fords, I must have had the Fumoto oil pan drain valve in my head when said this. I do have one on my 7.3 and also and my wife's 5.0 explorer and like them a lot. They drain slower but you just adjust your sequence to accommodate it.

I did buy a trans pan for the first year SD trans (I think it is a 4100R?) that has a drain plug already in it. Cost about $45. I still drop the whole pan during a fluid change but the drain plug lets you get about %95 of the fluid out first.
 
  #27  
Old 10-03-2015, 11:38 AM
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hi leojr

i was wondering about whether there are anydownsides to it in everday driving. it looks like the valve could possibly be tripped open by a fallen branch or something ? also, for off-roading it looks like you lose an inch or more of ground clearance.
 
  #28  
Old 10-03-2015, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by LeoJr
(I think it is a 4100R?)
It is the 4R100 transmission.
 
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