78 F150 4x4 Needs refreshing??
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78 F150 4x4 Needs refreshing??
Hey guys, I just purchased a 78 F150 4x4 with a stock 400 in it. It has 93,000 original miles on it and it runs. I'm gonna pull it out to do a frame off restoration but its going back in. The truck has been sitting for 10 yrs. I was wandering what all I need to replace as far as gaskets, timing chain, cam, etc while the engine is out. Im gonna install headers and aftermarket intake with a 4bbl. This is my 1st restoration project so I would appreciate ANY info I could get from yall. Thanks a million
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replace ALL gaskets (dont ever think about re using a pair of head gaskets), timing chain, cam and lifters, check your rockers for abnormal ware, replace bearings and check clearances, have the crank polished. i work at a high perf engine machine shop so im going to be biased and suggest machining all parts and doing a full freshen up. we get lots of other shops work because some one was cheap with the rebuild and re used old parts and didnt have the block or heads machined. in my opinion its not worth the risk of rebuilding cheap. im a believer in doing it right the first time.
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Joined: Dec 2009
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From: NorCal
2x on Fel-Pro gaskets. You'll need a full gasket kit but the kit will not include all the gaskets (strange, huh?). Meaning, remember to order the R.A.C.E set which stands for "remainder to assemble a complete engine"
Hmmmmm. Before pulling it, I recommend doing a compression check and a leakdown test to understand what you are working with. A rebuild may be needed sooner than later if it fails either.
Second, pull the valve covers and check for sludgy or caked oil. That's an indication of infrequent oil changes and short, stop and go driving sometime during its life. If the valve train is varnished but doesn't smell burnt or overheated, then it's a good sign that there were oil changes and long periods of operation - generally good for engine longevity.
Things to replace? If it sat around for a long time and it has steel freeze plugs, I'd replace 'em with brass plugs. Otherwise, strip it down to a long block and have at it.
For your consideration, below is my recent response to a fellow FTE'er who was looking to upgrade his 351M which also applies to your 400:
"Some simple upgrades include an open-element air cleaner and a free flow filter is worth a few HP. It's amazing how restrictive the stock air cleaners are. Next, switch to synthetic lubricants... engine, tranny, and rear end. Don't forget to include some zinc oil additive (zinc diophosphate).
Now the fun begins...First work on the exhaust. The rest of the upgrades will benefit from it. Take a look at Flowtech headers Summit PN BIG-32506FLT (2WD) or PN BIG-32520FLT (4WD) and 2.25-inch dual exhaust with mufflers of your choice. Best part is, the headers will also fit a 400 if you decide to go in that direction.
Second, a 4bbl intake and carb. Consider Edelbrock Performer PN 2171 (non-EGR) or PN 3771 (w/ EGR). Also consider Holley Action Plus, Jeg's PN 925-8010. Throw on a 600 cfm carb (Edelbrock 1405 or 1406 or a Holley 650 cfm (Jeg's PN 510-0-80453, smog legal!)) and call it good. Also consider a cam at this stage since ya got it all apart anyway. Crane's High Energy 268-degree cam is good from 1500-5500 RPM... it's at .494 lift so it should live with the stock valve train. Again, these parts can also be used on a 400.
"
Hmmmmm. Before pulling it, I recommend doing a compression check and a leakdown test to understand what you are working with. A rebuild may be needed sooner than later if it fails either.
Second, pull the valve covers and check for sludgy or caked oil. That's an indication of infrequent oil changes and short, stop and go driving sometime during its life. If the valve train is varnished but doesn't smell burnt or overheated, then it's a good sign that there were oil changes and long periods of operation - generally good for engine longevity.
Things to replace? If it sat around for a long time and it has steel freeze plugs, I'd replace 'em with brass plugs. Otherwise, strip it down to a long block and have at it.
For your consideration, below is my recent response to a fellow FTE'er who was looking to upgrade his 351M which also applies to your 400:
"Some simple upgrades include an open-element air cleaner and a free flow filter is worth a few HP. It's amazing how restrictive the stock air cleaners are. Next, switch to synthetic lubricants... engine, tranny, and rear end. Don't forget to include some zinc oil additive (zinc diophosphate).
Now the fun begins...First work on the exhaust. The rest of the upgrades will benefit from it. Take a look at Flowtech headers Summit PN BIG-32506FLT (2WD) or PN BIG-32520FLT (4WD) and 2.25-inch dual exhaust with mufflers of your choice. Best part is, the headers will also fit a 400 if you decide to go in that direction.
Second, a 4bbl intake and carb. Consider Edelbrock Performer PN 2171 (non-EGR) or PN 3771 (w/ EGR). Also consider Holley Action Plus, Jeg's PN 925-8010. Throw on a 600 cfm carb (Edelbrock 1405 or 1406 or a Holley 650 cfm (Jeg's PN 510-0-80453, smog legal!)) and call it good. Also consider a cam at this stage since ya got it all apart anyway. Crane's High Energy 268-degree cam is good from 1500-5500 RPM... it's at .494 lift so it should live with the stock valve train. Again, these parts can also be used on a 400.
"
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Thanks Montana, Whitey, and HIO. ALL of your recommendations are very much appreciated. Thoughts had crossed my mind to just run it like it is BUT I too like to do things right the 1st time around. Its just cheaper and easier that way. Im building this truck mostly for my Pops. These were his fav!! Anymore thoughts or recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks
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