Starter will not disengage
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Vancouver,WA.
Starter will not disengage
Well, I haven’t been around for some time (to much 'LIFE' thrown at me).
In the last year. I've had my share of problems with my truck, now somewhere in the process of replacing a worn out, broken steering column, my starter won’t disengage,
I’ve replaced the column mounted starter switch, lock and key, and starter, could it be my fender mounted solenoid or what?
Any and all help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.
In the last year. I've had my share of problems with my truck, now somewhere in the process of replacing a worn out, broken steering column, my starter won’t disengage,
I’ve replaced the column mounted starter switch, lock and key, and starter, could it be my fender mounted solenoid or what?
Any and all help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.
Last edited by S.P.; Sep 29, 2011 at 06:48 PM. Reason: spelling
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
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Man, are you trying to test what i just learned this past monday in auto class?
I am not joking we just talked about this. Damn! i should now this.
I want to say that my teacher said that something is probly wrong with the starter when it does not disengage.
I am not joking we just talked about this. Damn! i should now this.
I want to say that my teacher said that something is probly wrong with the starter when it does not disengage.
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 717
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From: Independence, Mo
Usually when The fender solinoid goes out it will just make one click but I guess it could be try crankin it then pull off the wire that comes from the ignition switch and see if it stops cranking
Postmaster
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When the ignition switch is turned to the “start” position and the neutral safety switch is closed, electricity flows from the battery to the solenoid. When the coil in the solenoid is energized, a magnetic field draws the piston into the coil. At one end of the piston is a copper disc that can carry a high amount of current without being damaged. It bridges the gap between two terminals in the relay to allow current to travel from the battery cable to the starter. When the key is released, a spring returns the piston to its original position, disengaging the starter drive from the flywheel.
More current is required to pull the solenoid piston against the spring than is needed to keep it in engagement. Therefore, there are two winding in the solenoid; a pull-in winding and a hold-in winding. Both windings are energized when the piston is pulled into the solenoid housing. But when the contact disc contacts the battery electrical contacts, it shorts out the pull-in winding, leaving only the hold-in winding energized. This frees up some electrical current to operate the starter.
This is from my text book for school.
More current is required to pull the solenoid piston against the spring than is needed to keep it in engagement. Therefore, there are two winding in the solenoid; a pull-in winding and a hold-in winding. Both windings are energized when the piston is pulled into the solenoid housing. But when the contact disc contacts the battery electrical contacts, it shorts out the pull-in winding, leaving only the hold-in winding energized. This frees up some electrical current to operate the starter.
This is from my text book for school.
Postmaster
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you are correct about it will just click if it is dead.
Postmaster
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Here ya go!
Overrunning Clutch Drive
Starter drives have a one-way overrunning clutch. The overrunning clutch transmits motion form the starter to the flywheel, but not from the flywheel to the starter. It disengages from the engine at startup, preventing the engine from driving the starter. If the starter were to remain engaged with the flywheel after startup and engine rpm increased to 2,000 rpm, the starter would be forced to turn at 36,000 rpm. Remember that the starter turns at 3,600 rpm to crank the engine at 200 rpm. If the starter is forced to rotate at speeds above 10,000 rpm, it could be destroyed by centrifugal force.
i realize the rpm numbers will be different for a diesel but you get the idea.
Overrunning Clutch Drive
Starter drives have a one-way overrunning clutch. The overrunning clutch transmits motion form the starter to the flywheel, but not from the flywheel to the starter. It disengages from the engine at startup, preventing the engine from driving the starter. If the starter were to remain engaged with the flywheel after startup and engine rpm increased to 2,000 rpm, the starter would be forced to turn at 36,000 rpm. Remember that the starter turns at 3,600 rpm to crank the engine at 200 rpm. If the starter is forced to rotate at speeds above 10,000 rpm, it could be destroyed by centrifugal force.
i realize the rpm numbers will be different for a diesel but you get the idea.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Vancouver,WA.
Thanks for the info.
So you say it’s the starter mounted solenoid?
That’s what I thought it was, so I had to do a lot of complaining at the parts store to get them to warrantee the old starter.. Could it be anything else at all???
Any help? Thanks
So you say it’s the starter mounted solenoid?
That’s what I thought it was, so I had to do a lot of complaining at the parts store to get them to warrantee the old starter.. Could it be anything else at all???
Any help? Thanks
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Postmaster
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The overrunning clutch is near the end of the shaft that has the gear on it that slides out and meshes with the flywheel and spins the flywheel.
So if that is what is wrong then you would be looking at a new starter.
So if that is what is wrong then you would be looking at a new starter.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Vancouver,WA.
On the fender mounted solenoid (looking at it) I have 2 wires on the left side, (the side that has the wire going to the starter solenoid) on if I leave the wire to the Start. sol. wire on and disconnect the other wire the starter Disengages. Any thoughts?
Postmaster
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Since you have replace everything else, all that would be left is the fender mounted relay.
Postmaster
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