This is ex fueled and loaded up


This is weight with tt hooked up without wd bars snapped in



This is weight with bars snapped in and loaded as if we were going on a trip

My question is do I need to add more tilt to hith head or leave it alone? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Oh yeah it's a 34' ball to bumper travel trailer being pulled with a 2003 6.0 diesel

 

Looks like you have a heavy tongue on that rig. Any chance or moving some weight in the trailer behind it's axles? How does it sit and do you have air bags?

 

Is that trailer a Toyhauler? They tend to be a little tongue heavy without a full load in the garage area, I know mine is! On our first long trip with our 28SRV Victory Lane TH we hit the Cat scales also, we only had 6 bicycles and maybe about 120lbs of other gear in the garage with all kinds of gear loaded in the forward tranverse compartment. Out initial tongue weight was 1740lbs YIKES! Things have gotten a lot better since with our loading, we need to hit the scales again and see how much better. We still don't normally have a huge load in the garage for long trips but my wheelwell measurements look better.
Looking at your numbers you should adjust your hitch to provide a little more transfer to your front end as it is running 260# lighter loaded than unloaded.
Do you have any suspension mods yet?
What are your hitch spring bars rated at? It looks like they are only moving 260# off the rear axle, you could use more.

The above has been edited due to my math errors and subsequent bad advice

Sorry for the earlier mistake on my part, I was adding weights when I should have been subtracting, I had mistakenly figured your tongue weight at almost twice what it is. (Maybe thats why my wife runs the checkbook.....?)
Housedad's post woke me up and made me see my mistake. I fully agree with his advice below, your steer axle is too light and needs more weight transfer. I'm not familiar with your hitch model and what adjustments to make but it seems that your 1200# bars should be taking more than 260# off the rear axle. (On my Hensley Arrow the 1400# bars take 760# off the rear axle). If you were saying earlier that your fresh water tank is behind the trailer axles and you are filling it for weight distribution you may want to stop that, a little more tongue weight (along with increasing front axle weight) will make your towing less squirrelly.
Again sorry for the earlier mistake and bad advice. Thats what happens when I don't have my cheetsheet in front of me.

 

I have airbags front and rear on ex. The tt is a front kitchen with large front slide. Fresh water tank full that's only way to put weight behind axles. It sits level but just feels iffy while driving

 

I am using the husky centerline hitch with 1200# bars serrated washers to adjust tilt on the hitch head. Should I move that back further to achieve more distribution?

 

according to those numbers:

Your trailer is 7640lbs

Just by calculating, your straight tongue weight is approximatly 840lbs Which is about 11%. Never let it go below 10% (if I did the numbers right)


With the bars hooked up :

100 lbs is shifted to the trailer tires.

The weight on the front axle is being UNLOADED by 260 lbs.

This is affecting your steering traction big time.


Hell yes. Change the angle or something. Get that weight on the front axle into the positive side. Read the owners manual for the hich and reset all adjustments if you have to.
You can download it here: http://www.huskytow.com/FTP/PartLookup/31390.pdf

You want to change the head angle or something. The idea is to make the adjustments untill the front and rear of the vehicle sag about the same amount. That means putting POSITIVE weight on the front axle of the truck and some on the trailer axle. You want to move that weight off the rear axle and shift it to the front axle and to the trailer axles.


I have the Jayco 322fks front kitchen. Front kitchens have really heavy tongue weights for their size and overall weight. With the trailer loaded up, everything I can shifted to the rear, and a FULL 45 gallons of water in the back tank, I still have a tongue weight of 1225 lbs. Without the water, it goes to 1525 lbs!!! I leave it full.

The unit on mine is the Reese Dual Cam With 1500lb spring bars. 1200 was just too small for my trailer. But 1200 lbs bars should do just right for you.

With the front kitchen unit, I decided it was well worth getting a sherline tongue wight scale so i could always hit around the tongue weight that I have the hitch set for. Sherline Trailer Tongue Weight Scales get the M2000 unit.

 

Thanks for responses I will try to adjust head to add more transfer. I guess I'm just afraid to put too much tension on my trailer brackets since the second time I towed with that hitch one of them snapped off! But your responses make sense as to why it road walks because everything is new under the ex.

Housedad thanks for showing me the link to those scales they would def come in handy, I believe I'll order one of those

 

I agree with others that you need to transfer more weight. I am not familiar with your hitch but this is most likely achieved through head tilt. The goal is to return the front axle as close as possible to the un-hitched weight. A easy way to get close is to measure the front wheel well height prior to hitching and then hitch up and adjust the weight distribution to return the front to the original height. I use the propride hitch which makes the adjustment easy to change as the load changes. Our trailer is 35' and scales 10500lbs with 1200-1400lbs of tongue weight depending upon how it is loaded. We have around 1/4" of rise at the front wheel well and 1.25" drop in the rear. Handles great. Transferring additional weight should improve the handling.

 

thanks RedEx I used wheel height as my basis first I had only 3/4 rise in the front and 3/4 drop on rear and thought i was ok. My hitch has square washer with teeth on it I moved them two notches. Don't get me wrong it tows "ok" but still a few white knuckle instances. This was first time I put water in holding tank to see if it helped with *** of trailer being pushed by trucks and vans, which it did help, so I can imagine how much the weights would have varied without the water. Only problem is the closes scales are 120 miles away so it will be a few days to see if adjustment has made a difference.

 

Well a follow up I move the serrated washers on hitch head and tilted back farther. And lowered my brackets on the trailer and I only have 100 lbs unloaded off front wheels. If my math is correct I have around 11% tounge weight" I think". this thing tows awesome now! Thanks for all replies and suggestions!!!!

 

Good job on dialing in your hitch set up.

If you do not already have "E" rated tires on the trailer, you may want to consider them when tire replacement time rolls around. I replaced mine during a road trip this summer, and was pleasantly surprised by the improved towing characteristics after replacing the "D's" on the trailer.