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Old Oct 1, 2011 | 10:31 PM
  #16  
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That little green pump will not last, if it does that will be a first. I had 2 of the gas version burn up in seconds, napa has the same ones called a posi-flow, total junk.
This is the only cube pump I have seen last.It has to be this part number.
Facet Solid State electric fuel pump - 40109 - Discount Yacht Supplies, Vetus Nautical Accessories, Scandvik Parts, Garmin Marine Electronics




Also all this air intrusion is why I am supplying viton orings in every kit, the ones in there dont always seal well, so a little trick is to use the questionable ones between the cap and injector line as a "spacer" to squeeze the cap down.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2011 | 10:40 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by typefour
That little green pump will not last, if it does that will be a first. I had 2 of the gas version burn up in seconds, napa has the same ones called a posi-flow, total junk.
The pump I have is designed SPECIFICALLY for diesel... Even says Not for use with Gasoline on it....Beyond that, I dunno... but for 60 bucks It better Last a while....

This is the pump I have but I got it thru Advance Auto rather than Jeg's http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr.%20Gasket/7...0002/-1?CT=999

Originally Posted by typefour
Also all this air intrusion is why I am supplying viton orings in every kit, the ones in there dont always seal well, so a little trick is to use the questionable ones between the cap and injector line as a "spacer" to squeeze the cap down.
Don't remember anymore but I think the guy I got em from said they were viton rings... I do remember they were kind of a green in color....
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 10:27 AM
  #18  
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BUMP.... I am still waiting to hear from somebody that has dealt with these hard Plastic fuel lines....
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 10:44 AM
  #19  
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 10:50 AM
  #20  
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Replacing plastic fuel lines - JeepForum.com

I hope that helps. I was wondering the same thing about how they were connected.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 10:54 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by eatont9999
Replacing plastic fuel lines - JeepForum.com

I hope that helps. I was wondering the same thing about how they were connected.

Not wanting to Replace.... I am Wanting to Splice into.... There is Nothing wrong with them other than the Fact they are Plastic in fact if they were steel or Rubber I would not be beating my head on a wall with this thing and I would be done by now...
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 11:10 AM
  #22  
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i can tell yopu right now... its the caps.... i bought a new replacement set. they leaked and threw old ones on and no leaks... nothing against ur father because im in college for mechanichal engineering tech and have much skill in a machine shop, but even .001in will let air in.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 11:15 AM
  #23  
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well make me a set that is perfect for a 92 7.3 and i will let u know how they do because mine are still the factory ones thats same pretty kick a** sh**
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 11:32 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by rangernut09011980
Not wanting to Replace.... I am Wanting to Splice into.... There is Nothing wrong with them other than the Fact they are Plastic in fact if they were steel or Rubber I would not be beating my head on a wall with this thing and I would be done by now...
I know. Those articles say that the plastic is heated or the connector going into the plastic is heated. It seems to me all you need to do now is cut the line, heat the plastic and insert a brass barbed hose fitting and you can then connect rubber line to the other end of the fitting.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 11:34 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by eatont9999
I know. Those articles say that the plastic is heated or the connector going into the plastic is heated. It seems to me all you need to do now is cut the line, heat the plastic and insert a brass barbed hose fitting and you can then connect rubber line to the other end of the fitting.
What is the easiest way to heat the line and still be able to work with it??
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 11:44 AM
  #26  
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Know that I have never messed with plastic fuel line but if I had to do what you are doing, I would place the fitting against the opening of the plastic line and carefully use a propane torch to heat the fitting (brass) and the plastic at the same time. I would apply more heat to the fitting as it will provide heat to the inside of the plastic tube as you can only heat the outside. Heat it evenly on all sides. When the tube gets soft, gently slide the fitting inside.

I have never done this before but the above is my best guess after reading some articles.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 07:23 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Rollin.IH.Coal
i can tell yopu right now... its the caps.... i bought a new replacement set. they leaked and threw old ones on and no leaks... nothing against ur father because im in college for mechanichal engineering tech and have much skill in a machine shop, but even .001in will let air in.
Dad's a master machinist with 40+ years experience. I'm a mechanical designer by degree since '03 (now a project estimator manager and not that any of it means a damn thing)... Check the tolerance of the plastic caps. Try over +/- .030 tolerance and some don't leak. The viton o-rings are tight in their grooves within the injectors and tight against the brass caps. I can go out to my truck and twist those caps around and they won't leak. 18mos and no leaks.
 
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