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If you are going to put in an electric pump, where do you install it? I see in some other posts, you should not use both mechanical and electric. I'm about at my wit's end trying to get my engine started! I put in a new lift pump and replaced a bunch of return lines/'O' rings, new batteries, controller, but no help. New plugs in the mail. I have a clear plastic line from the last injector to the filter but after much cranking, I see no fuel coming through.
If you don't have any fuel at the schrader, it certainly won't be at the return lines, the filter has to be filled first. If you aren't getting fuel up there, it is possible you have an air leak downstream to the pump, which is why it won't prime.
How much fuel do you have in the tank? Possibly your pickup tube has rusted off?
If you are curious if it will ever run again, and to give you some encouragement, take a long rubber hose and hook it on the suction side of the pump on the side of the engine, and drop it into a bucket of fuel. Crank it a little bit and it should suck the fuel out of the bucket and start up after the rest of the system gets primed.
Did you install the pump on the low side of cam, when you bolted it up. If not it's possible you ruined the pump. It doesn't take much. Make sure it's the right pump also.
Before I started replacing the return lines( only between the injectors) and 'O' rings it was hard to start. Immediately after I replaced this stuff, it started and ran OK. I let it sit for a few days and ......no start. I'll try some of these ideas. I put fuel in it after I got it started, so don't think it's the pickup. Fuel pump......Hhmmm? I noted it was different-the lever-than what came out. The NAPA guy just shrugged his shoulders. Thought I put it in right. I'll try the fuel 'bucket' and see what happens.
BTW, I'm not sure I understand 'the low side of the cam'? What I did was stick the lever under the cam which then made it take quite a bit of work to bolt it in. That is working against the force of the pump spring-if that's clear?
When you install the lift pump with the bent arm, you need to roll the engine over till you get to the lowest part of the cam lobe.
That keeps the arm from dropping off the side of the lobe which can damage the lift pump when you tighten the bolts.
Also if you replaced the hoses between the return tee's and did not replace the O rings I am sure you have major air leaks at the O rings.
That lets all the fuel drain back to the tank when the truck sets.
What happens with the O rings is the hot fuel in the return system makes the O rings hard.
If they are disturbed after they get hard, they will not reseal.
I did replace the 'O' rings. The first return line I replaced started the plastic housing leaking, so I replaced the 'O' rings. When I started it, the clear plastic line seemed to purge itself of air-going into the filter-and was showing solid fuel. After sitting, it's now bone dry-Question: should it stay filled/wet when just sitting?. As for the pump, I'll try the line in a container of fuel. That thing was such a bear to install, I'll switch to electric only, if it's bad. The hardest one I've put on!
Good question! I bought mine at a small town NAPA dealer. He didn't know why the difference in the old and new. The old pump had a less severe bend in the arm, the new one had a more pronounced bend and , I think, the new arm was shorter.
IAfter sitting, it's now bone dry-Question: should it stay filled/wet when just sitting?.
yes, it should be keeping the system full of fuel, that is why it starts and dies, it has to refill with fuel, and doesn't get it done in time to keep it running. Either something on the motor is allowing air back in so the fuel can drain back, or the check valve in the pump could possibly be no good. I run an electric myself, and it does help with priming, since you don't have to crank it to pump fuel, but if you have something letting air in, it will be a case where you have to purge the air from the filter every time it sits for any length of time. If you choose to go electric, mount it by the selector valve, or as close to the tank as you can, they are pushers, not pullers. It would be best if you use a relay to energize it, less load. I use an ignition source to turn it on when the key is on, but off when it is off, that way I never have to remember to turn it on or off. Put a switch on it somewhere to be able to shut it off if you need to work on the truck with the key on, like checking turn signals.
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