Fuel Oriented Hard start
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 314
Likes: 4
From: IN
Fuel Oriented Hard start
Ok you guys ALL know about my F250... I did the Engine swap last august (2010) and replaced all of the Injector Caps, O rings, and Return lines (between the injectors) when I did the Engine swap...
Now here is the Problem... It has developed a Fuel Bleed off that makes it Impossibly difficult to start if it has sat more than about 12 hours.
My question is this... Will I alleviate the Problem if I were to swap the mechanical fuel pump for an electric that I can turn on and re-prime the system prior to starting (Or keep the Mechanical and use the Electric STRICTLY for Priming) I have not got the funds to go on a wild goose chase trying to figure out where it is Bleeding off...
Side question... How often(if ever) does the Check valve in the Mechanical fuel pump get crap in it and cause this Problem??
Now here is the Problem... It has developed a Fuel Bleed off that makes it Impossibly difficult to start if it has sat more than about 12 hours.
My question is this... Will I alleviate the Problem if I were to swap the mechanical fuel pump for an electric that I can turn on and re-prime the system prior to starting (Or keep the Mechanical and use the Electric STRICTLY for Priming) I have not got the funds to go on a wild goose chase trying to figure out where it is Bleeding off...
Side question... How often(if ever) does the Check valve in the Mechanical fuel pump get crap in it and cause this Problem??
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,123
Likes: 5
From: Fort Worth, TX
An e-pump won't "fix" your problem but it might help alleviate some of the symptoms. The leak back problems are usually found in the return line caps, the lines themselves or the fuel filter head.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 912
Likes: 0
From: Marianna, Florida USA
If you do use it as an aux pump for priming, you should put it between the mech pump and the filter to prevent pumping fuel into the crankcase through a split diaphragm. If you decide to use the EP as a main pump, you should install a shut off switch so a loss in oil pressure will shut off the EP. 
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 426
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From: Southwest Florida Coast
I'm in the middle of redoing my fuel system and I got ?? I sux at wiring, if I splice into the line for the FSS do I need to do anything else or will that give me a live pump when key is turned?
if I install the e-pump between the mech pump and the filter can I leave the mech pump where it is and just cap the lines?That way if the e-pump fails, I just hook the mech pump back up is what I'm thinking.
if I install the e-pump between the mech pump and the filter can I leave the mech pump where it is and just cap the lines?That way if the e-pump fails, I just hook the mech pump back up is what I'm thinking.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,123
Likes: 5
From: Fort Worth, TX
I'm in the middle of redoing my fuel system and I got ?? I sux at wiring, if I splice into the line for the FSS do I need to do anything else or will that give me a live pump when key is turned?
if I install the e-pump between the mech pump and the filter can I leave the mech pump where it is and just cap the lines?That way if the e-pump fails, I just hook the mech pump back up is what I'm thinking.
if I install the e-pump between the mech pump and the filter can I leave the mech pump where it is and just cap the lines?That way if the e-pump fails, I just hook the mech pump back up is what I'm thinking.
If it were me, I would plumb the e-pump in using cut off valves. It may be a manual system but if a pump fails, you're on the side of the road anyway.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 314
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From: IN
Who made those or where did you get them???
I picked up a pump today(Mr Gasket Diesel pump the Green 1) and was going to install it back near the fuel tank. Problem is I have the hard plastic lines... how do I deal with them???? How do I heat them warm enough to work with but not to the point they fold over???
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
I designed them and my father machined them. I only have 3 sets of 6.9L N/A caps left right now. My dad's making his second trip (moving) to Idaho from Vermont in October. He just sold all of his machines and is buying new ones when he gets here to set up shop again. Once set up, 7.3L N/A, 7.3L turbo & 6.9L turbo caps will be produced.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 473
Likes: 1
From: dirty jerzy
i'm not saying your father, did anything wrong, from the looks of those caps he is a very skilled machinest---my question is do they seat right---are they sucking air
they sure are good looking--how much for 7,3 turbo caps
coat them with axel grease around the part that meets the injectors,see if that helps
they sure are good looking--how much for 7,3 turbo caps
coat them with axel grease around the part that meets the injectors,see if that helps
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,123
Likes: 5
From: Fort Worth, TX
I would be interested in a set of those return caps if they are more secure than the plastic ones. I have been thinking about the possiblity of tapping or welding a nipple onto the return output on the injector itself. Then you can connect the return lines with separate T's and hopefully no more leaking issues.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 314
Likes: 4
From: IN
I want to install this electric fuel pump I got back near the fuel tank selector valve does anybody here have experience in dealing with the hard Plastic fuel lines???
How do I splice into them???
How do I warm them to fit them over fittings????
Why did the Auto Manufacturers ever get away from rubber??? (this 1 is for humor)
How do I splice into them???
How do I warm them to fit them over fittings????
Why did the Auto Manufacturers ever get away from rubber??? (this 1 is for humor)
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
i'm not saying your father, did anything wrong, from the looks of those caps he is a very skilled machinest---my question is do they seat right---are they sucking air
they sure are good looking--how much for 7,3 turbo caps
coat them with axel grease around the part that meets the injectors,see if that helps
they sure are good looking--how much for 7,3 turbo caps
coat them with axel grease around the part that meets the injectors,see if that helps
The brass caps have been on for 18mos thus far. My engine hasn't lost prime since they were installed. I can let the truck sit for weeks on an incline and it'll start in a fraction of a second. Those ****ty plastic caps had me cranking every morning.
Anyway, I'm done hijacking this guy's thread. If you want to see more pics, PM me.
Sorry about the hijack rangernut. Haven't a clue about plastic fuel lines.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 314
Likes: 4
From: IN
Why would I post about them if they didn't seat correctly and sucked in air within a thread that's complaining about the plastic ones doing that? LOL.
The brass caps have been on for 18mos thus far. My engine hasn't lost prime since they were installed. I can let the truck sit for weeks on an incline and it'll start in a fraction of a second. Those ****ty plastic caps had me cranking every morning.
Anyway, I'm done hijacking this guy's thread. If you want to see more pics, PM me.
Sorry about the hijack rangernut. Haven't a clue about plastic fuel lines.
The brass caps have been on for 18mos thus far. My engine hasn't lost prime since they were installed. I can let the truck sit for weeks on an incline and it'll start in a fraction of a second. Those ****ty plastic caps had me cranking every morning.
Anyway, I'm done hijacking this guy's thread. If you want to see more pics, PM me.
Sorry about the hijack rangernut. Haven't a clue about plastic fuel lines.
No sweat Mech feel free to post any pics you want.... actually I don't think my caps are leaking there is no diesel residue that I can find anywhere near them....I just liked the Brass... Mine are all only about 14 months old (replaced caps lines and Orings when I did the swap and oiled everything good on assembly) I think what the issue is, is that I have some trash in a check valve somewhere and it is allowing the fuel to bleed off, OR I have a leak at a coupling somewhere..... but I really do not have any way to verify either of these.
I am gonna check my cooling system tester tommorrow(would have done it today but I was not home) to see if I have a cap I can use to pressurize the fuel system and see if by some weird chance it is leaking at a coupling joint somewhere...Hopefully I have something that will work.
PS I am interested in a set of those but I have no funds right now.... My current return system is the 91+ Large bore Caps and hoses(this is due to the engine being out of a 92 F series)