here is what the truck is doing, on cold starts it is hard/long then idles rough until warm also if i drive with it still cold it shifts late/hard in 1st and 2nd and the engine will not rev past 3100, but once it does shift it seems okay once in 3rd though hold-on cause it takes off like a bat-outa-hell, once warm everything seems fine(shifts normally,has power). been reading everything i could, changed filters and oil still same, also i'm getting exhaust smell in the cab. this is on a 04 f250 6.0. i know there are lots of things that can cause these problems just kinda lost as to where to start looking. any help is greatly appreciated.

 

sounds like you have a couple things going on here

Exhaust in cab is probably a cracked flex joint in the up pipes

check your FICM voltage for your cold start concerns

 

was going to just haven't had the chance yet. oh well the list just gets a little longer

1. check FICM voltage
2. coolant flush
3. blue spring upgrade
4. change all fluids
5. go through vehicle with fine tooth comb

oh well knew the risks and problem areas going in

 

add some gauges I run a scan gauge so do others great little device for 160.00 or whatever
I can check Ficm voltages in a Micro second and ECT and EOT for oil cooler health TONS more gauges with it to

IMHO you will need to keep a close eye on the temps with a coolant flush
some oil coolers have plugged because of a flush

and a coolant filter

 

Had the same 'issues' when I bought my truck a year ago... except for the exhaust in the cab. Rusty Axelrod used a string on a stick to find his exhaust leak - he thought it was redneck - but I thought it was better than putting your fingers on hot stuff you can't see. Check around the up pipes, the EGR cooler inlet, and both sides of the turbo.

The hard/late shifting and loping when idling could be several things. My truck runs perfect now, bit I've changed the following based on failures since purchase... Thankfully I got a great deal on the truck to begin with...

EGR cooler (major internal leak)
Oil cooler

ICP sensor

then alternator went out + 2 batteries

then HPO pump failed

replaced IPR valve and HPOP plus 4 driver's side injectors and dummy plug and stand pipe on that side

The injectors were diagnosed by the dealer as bad.

Just be patient, read, and make sure to get a Scangauge as Benny suggests. Really aids in figuring some stuff out.

Truck was loping pretty bad at cold idle before the HPOP failed. The hard shifts went away after the EGR coolerfailed, but I don't think they were related.

 

After BulletProofing my EGR cooler I had an exhaust smell and a hiss at idle. I tried the stick/TP method and couldn't find the leak. Finally I used about 4ft of 3/8 plastic tubing. With one end in the ear and searching with the other end I found the Y pipe was not fully seated into the turbo. If you can hear a leak this might help to find it.

 

any thoughts on when glow plugs should be changed

thanks i'll try that trick out

 

When they fail!

Cheezit has had several posts on testing glowplug wiring and glowplugs.

 

is it having a hard time to start up

 

yes but only when cold, when the engine is warm there is no problem

 

#1 on your list is a great start hrere

dont put it off to long you might start dropping injectors

 

m#@$$%^$@&^% truck
FICM test results
KOEO 48v
buzz 20v
crank20v
we will see if i can repair it otherwise
it will be going to swamps diesel

 

Try this guy for repairs: FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair Good knowledgeable guy and great customer service.

 

Hey at least you figured it out without having to pay a shop

Iv seen people pay 1300.00$$ at the dealer for a ficm CRAZY
and there new ficm more than likly has the same weak solder joints

Try that link Tim posted

 

FICM's go, but at least we usually get some warning with the low voltage condition, if we monitor it. A FICM failure can leave you flat out stranded. I watched mine go down for months, just to tempt fate. I even put "Rollin the dying FICM mod" next to my user name.

I had made arrangements with Ed(FICMREPAIR.COM) to get mine fixed ASAP, because I was getting a little uncomfortable with it's rate of decline. I was on the road a lot and never home more than a few days. But of course as fate would have it, it took a really bad turn when I had gotten 250 miles from home during the last weekend of my traveling. FICM voltage went from the low 30's into the mid twenties during that single 250 mile run. I didn't want to take any more chances while I was away with a 12K trailer. The next morning, after some phone calls, I started the truck(FICM 17.5 V) to make the 70 mile trip to the nearest dealer. I let it warm up and made it to the dealer. FICM was looking relatively good during that run.



Made it there okay, gave the dealer $1000, and I swapped it out in their parking lot because they were busy. That took all of a 1/2 hour.

My point is, you can *&%##% at it all you want. You aren't stranded yet, and it's not that big of a deal to get it fixed.

6.0l knowledge is power, unless you're an idiot like me and want to play games with failing components.