94 F150 stuck thermostat?
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94 F150 stuck thermostat?
Hey guys,
I have a '94 f150 with a 302. I was driving home yesterday and about half a mile from my house when my temperature gauge maxed out and my engine overheated, boiling over the coolant and spewing half of it out into my driveway while I was pulling in. I refilled the coolant but haven't cranked it since. Could it be a stuck thermostat?
I did check for any leaks in the radiator and cooling system and found none.
I need to get this truck back on the road soon as it is my DD.
Thanks guys.
I have a '94 f150 with a 302. I was driving home yesterday and about half a mile from my house when my temperature gauge maxed out and my engine overheated, boiling over the coolant and spewing half of it out into my driveway while I was pulling in. I refilled the coolant but haven't cranked it since. Could it be a stuck thermostat?
I did check for any leaks in the radiator and cooling system and found none.
I need to get this truck back on the road soon as it is my DD.
Thanks guys.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 118
Likes: 1
From: Colorado
Start the engine and let it warm up, when the thermostat opens the upper radiator hose will get hot. If the hose stays cool, the thermostat is stuck closed. You may want to change it before you start it anyways, they are cheap.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,431
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From: Ohio
It's an inexpensive replacement...just don't buy the cheapest one at the store. i've had issues with the cheap ones not working properly.
As a PM step, I replace mine about once every 2 years, whether it needs it or not. I look at it as a bit of insurance, since I put on about 600 miles every other weekend just to see my kids.
As a PM step, I replace mine about once every 2 years, whether it needs it or not. I look at it as a bit of insurance, since I put on about 600 miles every other weekend just to see my kids.
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Freshman User
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I went ahead and replaced it but there was a small crack in my thermostat housing and now it slowly dribbles out coolant until the level gets below the upper radiator hose or until its under pressure. So it looks i need a new stat housing and some form a gasket.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2009
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Probably cracked when the engine overheated. Also be looking where the plastic tanks attach to the metal parts of the radiator and make sure that your draing petcock works as intended. On my 88 the petcock would not close all the way.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
Likes: 12
From: Bend,OR
be sure your installing a 195* stat also. anything cooler and your motor will run rich and burn excess fuel.
also make sure the Tstat is facing the correct direction, ive seen folks install them backwards which doesnt allow them to work.
also make sure the Tstat is facing the correct direction, ive seen folks install them backwards which doesnt allow them to work.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2009
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Haha, I've been people that install them backwards.
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New User
Joined: Sep 2011
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My 95 F-150 thermostat learning experience...
I replaced my original thermostat yesterday, since I was running warm (about 3/4 max temp, but not overheating), and every other possible problem had been checked. My mechanic recommended I always get a good quality part, such as Stant. Replacing it fixed the problem, and it nows runs at a temp (about 1/4 max) I'm used to seeing. The point is, thermostats aren't always completely open or closed, but sometimes partially open, I'm guessing it's due to the spring material losing flexibility or little shaft wearing out, and not sliding as easily as it used to.
Also, when you change the thermostat, be sure that after cleaning off the old gasket and sealant from the engine block and elbow, only put Permatex on the engine block and then attach the new gasket to the block, with the bolt holes carefully lined up. If the elbow doesn't have a locking tab to secure the thermostat, you can put a tiny ring of Permatex around the bottom of the little elbow recess, and then let it cure long enough to secure the thermostat. Other than that, don't put any Permatex on the elbow housing where it mates up to the gasket which is now attached to the engine block. I did that yesterday, and it leaked like crazy. After starting over and not adding the Permatex to the elbow, it sealed perfectly.
Also, when you change the thermostat, be sure that after cleaning off the old gasket and sealant from the engine block and elbow, only put Permatex on the engine block and then attach the new gasket to the block, with the bolt holes carefully lined up. If the elbow doesn't have a locking tab to secure the thermostat, you can put a tiny ring of Permatex around the bottom of the little elbow recess, and then let it cure long enough to secure the thermostat. Other than that, don't put any Permatex on the elbow housing where it mates up to the gasket which is now attached to the engine block. I did that yesterday, and it leaked like crazy. After starting over and not adding the Permatex to the elbow, it sealed perfectly.
Last edited by ewelling; Sep 26, 2011 at 12:27 PM. Reason: Needed additional info
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Freshman User
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When I did mine I put PVR on the elbow and on the block, but you have to make sure to smooth it flat with your finger first. I used to make kayaks and I worked with the same gasket maker stuff all the time to seal the foam in the kayaks to the body itself so I really didn't have any problems when it came to using that stuff.
Just make sure you wait long enough for it to cure, or it will definitely leak.
Just make sure you wait long enough for it to cure, or it will definitely leak.
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Rick_Fury
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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