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Hub bearings need replacing

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Old Sep 24, 2011 | 03:27 PM
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Hub bearings need replacing

f-250, light duty, 2wd. Driver's side wheel bearings are shot and need replacing. I'm assuming i can replace them myself, just trying to figure out what goes where, and if I have all the necessary components.
I think when I installed the new spindle I over-tightened the spindle nut, causing the bearings to compress to the point of failure (not quite clear on the torque specs for the spindle nut).
I am at the mid-way point on this job right now (the wheel is off and everything is stripped off down to the spindle). I've got a set of bearings, I'm just not sure if there are other pieces of the puzzle I'm missing (rings, rubber seals, etc.)
Any help would be appreciated!

-Mike
 
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Old Sep 24, 2011 | 07:19 PM
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should be pretty straight forward. All ball joints tie rod bolts get torqued TIGHT. The bearings must have rmore to grow slightly and keep a grease film and roll, when hot. Normally you just snug the axle unt untill you feel it starting to drag, then back off 1 flat on the nut. YOU should be able to spin the tire and see itcoast around 4-5 times without stop sppinning. YOu should also be able lto grab the tire top and bottom and try to wiggle it. You should only have a slight "wiggle" movement in the tires. The tighter you get the axle nut, the less "wiggle" you get, but the tire must be able to roll without resistance for several turns when your done.... YOu might need an alignment also since you have remove the ball joints, tie rods and installed a new spindle.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2011 | 09:19 PM
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Thanks for responding. No problems with the torque specs on the upper and lower balljoint nuts and the control arm nut. I way over-torqued the spindle nut, however! This is what caused the bearing to falter, i think. In addition, I'm having difficulty removing on of the bearing race, which was pushed onto the spindle so tightly I'm going to have to rent a puller tomorrow to get it off!
I now know better.
What I'm concerned about are the different metal seals/rings that I may be missing. You know, additional hardware. Do you (or does anyone else) know all of the components needed to replace the bearings. I'm thinking a piece by piece description of all the parts, from the inner spindle right to the dust cap on the outside. I don't want to miss anything.
Bye for now,

-Mike
 
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Old Sep 24, 2011 | 10:37 PM
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At the risk of stating the obvious, you have a passenger side that is still intact (if I understand you correctly). You could slowly take it apart and see how it is put together to see if it matches up with what you have for the driver's side.... Might as well replace that side too. Of course, I don't know if this all started because you were planning to do that in the first place.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 01:35 PM
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I have not worked on a newer 2 wheel drive, but for 50 years they were all basically similar. Looking at the spindle, you have a grease seal that goes on first, then the inner bearing, a 2-3 inch gap, then the outer bearing facing the opposite direction, then a big flat washer, probably with a key slot, then the nut. Normally you snug the nut as i mentioned, back off 1 flat and install the cotter pin thru a hole in the spindle threaded shaft so the nut does not move. A grease cap covers the outside.. only seal is on the inside. OF coures, the bearing outer races are normally pressed into the hub and will not just fall out, they will have to be hit with a flat punch and hammer.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 01:46 PM
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not a FORD, but this guy has the basics.

justKAMPERS front wheel bearing replacement - YouTube
 
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 05:14 PM
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Job Complete

It's a done deal. I have the Hayne's manual for the correct procedure for checking and re-packing the wheel bearings. I think I was looking in the suspension section when the information was actually located in the routine inspection and tune-up section near the beginning of the manual.
Thanks for the tips, guys!

Cheers,

-Mike
 
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 05:17 PM
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"Ask and you shall receive."
 
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