The less expensive ScanGauge does a lot of those things too.....

 

no offence but i wouldnt use a FRAM filter. i'd stick wif motorcraft oil filter. there is a video explaining why the motorcraft filter was specifically designed for use on 6.0s

 

btw topherchris, if ur gonna change ur oil cooler, u might wan to do the upgrade for ur stc fitting in the HPOP, and remember to also change ur egr cooler too. rule of thumb when u change ur oil cooler, change ur egr cooler too, and vice versa. good luck!

 

I have always understood that FRAM is okay to buy. The FRAM filter and the Motorcraft filter are made by Racor and put in a FRAM or Motorcraft box at the factory.

The key is the patent number stamped on the filter itself. Once you have that you're good to go.

But absolutely get to be comfortable with that info yourself. Search on google and decide for yourself ... and always open the box in the store and make sure what it says on the box is actually in the box.

 

I have seen other fram filters and they are crap. I will stick with racor/motorcraft.

 

OEM filters on everything. Oil, Fuel and Air.

 

His truck was an 03 so he has the good EGR cooler and would be fine

But I beleive he was going with an EGR deleate or it had one in the kit he Was going to get

There have been a few issues with the Black Onics head gaskets Stick with OEM there other than that the kit looked OK

might be able to get a better deal if you got the OEM parts from tousley ford or parts guy ed both have great prices

and then if you want an EGR deleate get it from another vendor
just keep in mind I went with the Sinister EGR deleate and lost some of the turbo whistle its still there just not as much
I hear it from the wife about the whistle isnt as much anymore since the deleate and she says I need to put it Back
IDK what to do If its GONE theres nothing to fail shure did like the whistle

 

I wish I could get rid of some of my whistle. It gets annoying over time. gotta love the 03 screamer!

 

I saw the little vid clip you made awhile back

thats how mine was

I never would have thought the egr deleate would have toned it down I thought it was going to whistle more guess not

 

I think potentially bad just took a turn for horrible. I used the truck last night, I was at work earlier when I started this thread. The truck was parked on the main street and I wanted to move it when I got home...it was really slow to turn over and took more cranks than usual, it ran with a little bit of a miss when it did start and I moved it around the corner onto my street and shut it off, being curious I tried to start it again (now it gets bad). The truck won't start, it will give a couple cranks then just click and the needles go crazy. I popped the hood to check the batteries but my Fluke is dead so I'll have to get batteries to check those. I took a flashlight to check coolant level and it was below the minimum mark (I posted this thread because I just filled it last night) since it has been sitting all day in San Diego there was no puddle under where it sat but looking under it there is some leakage by the rear of the passenger tire, it's dark and I can't see where it's coming from, I went in the house to see if I had batteries (I don't) and went back out to check oil level, oil level is good but the vent tank was drained, no puddle under it but there is deff. a spot where coolant (I think) has drained.

 

Dude you're losing coolant it isn't good. Either egr cooler failure or head gaskets(or both). Don't try to run it.

 

Has it been blowing any White smoke or smoke at ALL

 

No smoke...I isolated the batteries and they both read 12V. I'm going to leave it sit this week and have it towed to the garage on base that I can work on it at...I have a feeling it's going to be a rough fix. I should probably change the name of this thread to "I think it's f***ed, please help"

 

Yes Tow it

Did you find out if the coolant was just leaking on the ground

or could it be hydro locked

 

I just called my cousin, he lives in MO and works on a lot of diesels. He said that the electronic systems on these are extremely tempermental. I just washed it yesterday and I was really careful not to keep water away from the intake so I wouldn't say deff. no to hydro locked but I tried not to, and I'm thinking maybe water may be not allowing it to get enough to start. He also said that the coolant lines on the EGR cooler tend to leak, so I'm going to start by taking the batteries out and having them tested tomorrow and checking the coolant lines on the EGR cooler. I know how to check a gasoline engine for hydro lock and get it un-hydro locked but how to do you check a diesel for hydro lock and correct that (if that's the issue) also if the EGR cooler would go bad because from what I understand it happens a lot with these engines would putting an EGR delete kit on it correct that or does it mess something else up when the EGR cooler goes? Oh, and I did start it multiple times and run it last night and it started and ran fine after washing.